mlapaglia

I pull about 6 feet off as a max lenght. Thats my arm spread so I can pull it through the first few holes without having to regrab the thread. As people have said long threads get frayed and break after going through too many holes.

Just to add my 2 cents. sinew is not a good thing to use to stitch with for most applications. Stick to a waxed linen, or waxed poly thread. I use waxed linen.

As another way of doing things instead of stitching punches get a good diamond awl and an over stitch wheel. There is a major difference of opinion regarding stitching punches, Diamond awl and Prickling irons. Prickling irons park the location to push the awl through just like the over stitch wheel does. Some people use prickling irons to punch holes in thinner leather some dont. The point being there are many opinions and suggestions you will get that are at times all correct. Find someone you trust, on or off line and go with what they suggest to start. Then after you get a feel for it you might change your view point. I started with Diamond stitching punches. 4, 2 and 1 hole. Now I only use a diamond awl when I hand stitch. FYI I also have a sewing maching for leather but that's down the road for you. A lot of people handstitch everything and it looks great. better than machine stitching. I wish there were a simple answer but there is not. There are too many ways to get the same job done. Buy fewer tools than too many to start and then but what you need as you need it. To make the wallest you showed in the link you could go with as little as a: Good (sharp) knife to cut out the leather An edging tool in 2-3 sizes a skiving tool to thin edges when needed a Diamond Awl with handle Overstitch wheel or prickling irons in the SPI (stitch per inch) you plan to use Stitching pony. (this is almost a must if you hand stitch) good quality thread ruler contact cement dye finish compass gouge And a few I probably forgot and a few you might not need. The video above is a good place to start. Dont worry about the other things he didnt mention. You will know when you need a new tool and we can tell you which are the good ones. Dont get overwhelmed. Start small. Michael

As long as we are talking contact cement and the fact that once it touches the other piece of leather you can not move it, try this trick. Place sections of wax paper over one of the pieces and then put the other piece on and align it. Then pull out a piece or two of wax paper and press thoses sides together. Continue as you work along the edge. I have done this with a 60" belt made from 2 pieces of 8/9 cut to 1.5" and it aligned up perfectly since I could adjust as needed. Just a thought. Michael

Hope this helps, here is a conversion chart with some explaination. http://www.ebay.com/gds/LEATHER-WEIGHT-CONVERSIONS-CORRECTING-MISINFORMATION-/10000000176039921/g.html

Your leather isnt cased enough or too much when you stamp it. Wet or spray the top and let it return to the natural color of the leather. If this happens in the first two minutes you did not start with enough water. One of the best ways is to wet it with a wet sponge and then bag it and set it in the fridge over night for the water to seep into all the leather. Then take it out and when it returns to normal color start stamping. As for antiquing in vibrant colors I use acrylic paints and a brush. a pain in the but for large projects but for something like a name its not hard at all. Fibings and Anglus both make acrylic paint for leather. As far as I can tell any acrylic paint should work just fine. If you use Resolene as a resist you can use the paint like a gel but you have to be super careful when you wipe the top. Just my 2 cents Michael

I use Gum Trag. I like the way it looks and lasts. All I do is apply the Gum-T then slick it down with a wooden dowel going in one direction. I mostly do this for holsters and then only on the part of the flesh that is visible. I do not do the backs of belts or straps.

A non-swivel knife. The swivel knife in one form or another is a very old concept.

Try a lighter to burn the threads that are sticking out.

One thing I forgot to mention. I made a test strap that turned out perfect. I saved it and lay it over the new strap then put the punch against the hold one. This lines it up. Then whack it with a mallet and its good to go. Michael

I agree, having grown up using a wood lathe, those are lathe tools.

What size punch did you buy and what size strap are you using. I have a 1.6" english point I use on 1.5" belts. I had a really hard time getting it to center or the ends straight. What I finally learned is that I have to mark the center on the leather then place the point on it and rotate until there is the same space between the ends of the punch. Another way is to use a right angle, a square" one side against the leather and the other across the leather with the punch ends against the edge. then lift and move the punch to get the center aligned. I find the first method faster and easier. This is the one I got. Super sharp and I use it for 1" to 1.5" straps and belts.

Me, also a Bishops hat.

Here is a trick for removing antiquing from places you dont want it, like high spots etc. use an alcohol wipe on a flat piece of 1"X"1" or something flat and wipe it over the surface where you got antique that you didnt want. It will remove it and most of the resolene too. So make sure you final coat it after you have fixed the area. Try it on a scrap piece that you have placed some resolene on as a resist. Works every time for me.

Sewing for normal projects. Hand stitch when I what it to be extra special. A premium charge for most jobs if its hand stitched.

Another tip. Get a wine cork and put the flat side against the back side of the leather when you push the awl through. IT helps keep things looking good and saves your fingers.

You might want to try this book http://books.google.com/books/about/Harvesting_Color.html?id=8CwxW75P_dsC It lists several types of natural dyes and colors available. Includes how to make them. Pink and purple are just some of the colors she explains.

Walnuts can be used to make a dye. Vinegaroon was available back then as was using a barrel of rusting iron. Both make a great black. walnuts make a brown dye

You should be ok. I would stitch it on then place a rivet in the middle. The stitching would help reinforce the area. I'd use a #12 copper rivet but that is a personal preference.

What thickness leather and will the addition of the thumb loop mean that the rivet is going through 2 or 3 layers?

That would explain it. I've made that mistake too. Michael

Are you heating your holsters after they are molded to make them stiff or just going with how they are after they dry? 10-30 minutes at about 150-200 degs really helps them stiffen. The object is to get the leather temp up to 135-140 for a few minutes. How long and what temp you use depends on the thickness of the leather and your oven. Try it on some scrap if you are not doing this yet. Watch it as it can burn pretty fast if you are not careful.

You can ask corporate to have your on line orders come from another store. I had to as the closest store sucked.

Try casing the leather and using a modeling spoon to lightly rub the mark away. Practice on a scrap first. IT can be done. I once removed an entire stamp that was crooked and then was able to restamp it.

No Insult intended but you do understand that you are asking me to contribute to my competition? Its a great idea I'm just not sure this is the place to ask for financial support. I could, however, be wrong.