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mlapaglia

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Everything posted by mlapaglia

  1. Also consider that Cocobolo has an oil that leaches out of the wood for a while. It can stain the leather. I had it happen when I laid a piece of cocobolo on top of a scrap of leather over night.
  2. Neatsfoot oil is a leather softener and preserver. It may be semantics or it may not. I use it as a conditioner but never thought about if it really is or not. "repels water protects leather from the stiffening effect of the wet/dry cycle of outdoor use... Pure Neatsfoots oil is a restorative...makes dried out leather soft and pliable." Thats what my bottle of Fieblings Neatsfoot oil says.
  3. As I said its good work over all. As for SPI (stitch per inch) get some leather the same thickness and experiment on how to get it to 5-6 spi. There are some great people here that can help you with your machine. Post a thread in the sewing machine section and I know someone there will be able to help you. I use a Tippman Boss so I cant help at all with adjustments on your machine. Click here Its a link to a post by Techsew Ron. If anyone can help you he can. Hang in there. It will work out.
  4. Interesting design. Your stitch per inch could be closer. something more like 6 stitches per inch prevents that staggered look on curves. In addition your stitch line along the slide needs to be closer to the edge of the slide. Its a good start but you have a few things to work on in the way of the stitching. Good work over all.
  5. I did 50/50 by weight and its the consistency of really thick tooth paste. Softer than shoe polish. Id add a little more neatsfoot oil at a time till it softens up. Since it will need to cool in order to tell put a little on a cold spoon to cool it down fast to see how firm it is. Id start with 1/8 part more oil. If you used a cup each add 1 oz by weight to see if that works. increase as needed. A new can should be ok to store it in.
  6. Another option is alcohol. I have had really good luck with 90% rubbing alcohol. saturate the stain and then blot, not rub. repeat as needed. You will need to put some oil back in to the leather when you are through. It's a lot of work and wont always work. Might be better to cut around it and accept that its a bad section. Thats something you have to decide.
  7. Something like this? Ill look for the pattern if its what you are looking for.
  8. For anyone interested Chic Gaylords book "Handgunner's Guide" is for sale, closeout, at Paladin press for $5.00 I have not read it yet but I have been told that he used to be one of the best holster makers there were. For 5 bucks w/ $4.00 for shipping it looks like its worth a read. I'm sure someone here can tell us more about him Michael
  9. Use a groover, It will cut a small channel and keep your stitches safer. Should work just fine. Get a free hand one for stitches that are not on the edges. The other option is to use one of the pens that erase on leather. I want to say its a silver pen but im not sure. Someone will come along and point out the correct pen to use. This one can be used with the side tool or as a free hand model. Michael
  10. Make sure to soak your steel wool and vinegar at least two weeks. It starts working on the second day but needs all the time to really get good.
  11. Ive been sick, Haven't touched any leather in at least a month. Im glad you are getting out and doing stuff. Congrats about the 2 guitar straps too.
  12. call George over, knock him out with my poly mallet and that will delay the questions
  13. I think its for buckeye lacing but I could be very wrong. Someone will weigh in on this.
  14. Sorry, SQL Error = Double Post
  15. Actually they pay or the increased custom look and feel of a saddle stitch. I've never had a person object to paying more for hand stitching. I have a Tippmann Boss sewing machine and saddle stitch also. Depends on the project, customer and budget. Michael
  16. For a first time with a 4mo old assistant It looks good. 2 things. First the grip as you mentioned, is too close to have a reliable draw on a consistent basis. If you lengthen the sweat guard on the next one you could get both grip and comfort. Second, the slots for the belt are too long due to the curve. On the next one try straight slots. They will let the belt lay better on your side. The stitching looks fine as does the dye job. Keep up the good work it's a great start. By the way. Next time you squash a spider wait till it gets off the leather. This way you don't get an indentation. Michael
  17. Actually its Trademark infringement not copyright. Logos are handled a little differently. As stated in this thread using a logo patch is ok, making a logo patch is not ok Just remember, if you buy a pattern, no matter what it says on it, you can make and sell items made from the pattern. Copyright protects the sale of the pattern. Even if the owner say you can NOT make and sell the item it is legal to make and sell it. The only time someone can be protected is if they hold the patent on the item. Patent protects the item copyright protects the instructions.
  18. Glad to hear you are feeling better. Ill bet you gave the nurses trouble. As my kids say to me when I visit the ER, "Cut that crap out". We need you here. Where would we be without a grumpy old man? Take it easy and relax for a day or two. Glad you are back. Michael
  19. What kind of machine do you have? That will help us help you. As far as I know there is no book but Ill bet someone here knows how to help.
  20. There is something to be said of the clean lines on that holster. I like it a lot. Perfect stitching, of course. Well done sir.
  21. 8/9 should be fine. Its easy to work with. Just make sure you follow the directions in AL's book. It will be harder to push an Awl through it to stitch but you can do it. If you tool it you will find it leaves deeper impressions which look great. It should not be a problem at all. Good luck and take your time. It will be a great project.
  22. Any one got an idea? Someone has to be making gun belts. Maybe I wasnt clear. The end with the holes on the belt. do you take it double layer to the end or stop the inner layer before the holes start?
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