Trevor

Hello again Handstitch. You mentioned that the marks were from the bed side of the machine. This mark is the feed-dog claws coming too high out of the bed and combined with too much foot pressure will make an ugly pattern on the underside of the item being sewn. You may find that the dog height can be adjusted a little to ease the amount of how much comes up out of the bed. This will have to be done from inside the bobbin hole. Maybe contact the guys that you got it off and see if they know how to do it. If not any good sewing machine mechanic should be able to do it for you. Just check also that the top plate is all screwed down properly too. Good luck Trevor "Way Down Under"

Hey there Handstitch. This is very annoying I must say. I have been sewing leather for years and this issue doesnt seem to happen to me. Sometimes when the leather is slightly damp the machine will leave footprints in the path of the stitches. Check that first. Sew dry is the best unless it doesnt matter. Firstly my initial thoughts were that the foot pressure is too great. The thickness that you are sewing (I assume two layers of 3.5 = about 7 or 8mm maybe) should be easy to sew on any "Leather" machine. When you get to 12 mm or more then the machine will soon tell you whether it is ok to sew that thickness. there are a number of things that you need to check out. You need to try and figure out which of the two feet is making the mark. and make adjustments as required. You can adjust (Most machines) the pressure on the needle foot and the presser foot as well. The needle foot adjust is usually on the top left hand side of the machine and just screws left and right. The presser foot adjuster will be at the back of the machine and it will change the height, of the presser foot, when it does its cycle and a stitch is formed. Check and see if the feet are contacting the leather dead flat. a slight angle of either foot can cause a big mark. This would be unlikely though. Check that the tensions are all as they should be. You should be able to pull the top thread through when you left the foot up. it should have a bit of pressure but not too loose or tight. The bobbin thread should be constant and light to pull through at any time. Have a good look at the finished stitch. this can often tell you what is wrong anyway good luck in WA Cheers Trevor "Way down Under"

Hey there Don nice work my friend. The tan contrast is OK as well. I did a similar alteration once and I had to put a V shaped gusset in the side of a pair of womans high boots with elastic to make room for a bigger calf muscle. That was a mission I can tell you. Turned out good though. Couldnt have dont it without the boot patcher though. Marvelous invention. Cheers Trevor "Way Down Under"

Randy I pondered over this for a couple of days as well. I eventually decided to very carefully grind off the small skeg and polish the foot so it is now smooth. I assume this is to form a small groove or channel to lay the stich into and therfor make it sit flat and flush with the leather surface. (You may want to check with the ARTISAN guys of course) I found on corners and when using a needle that can lay the stitch (ie a reverse twist) with an angle pattern, and not a straight line, the groove will still form a straight line and it all looks a bit messy. I am very happy now that it has been removed. Regards Trevor "Way Down Under"

Not sure wether the tannery closed because of economic downturn (probably had something to do with it) or just plain not making enough money here and off shore. I spoke at length with the sales manager and he says several things one being viability with such a run down plant and a not so friendly chemical industrial plant in the middle of built up New Lynn, Waitakere, (Auckland). When I looked around the place the machinery was all old stuff and the building is getting quite old. I guess to modernise all of this you may as well start again out in the country somewhere. It needed all new clean and modern machinery and the leather markets to make it profitable. They had some very good customers and while I was there they were doing a couple of containers full for a crowd in New York and another for Canada. THis was all good black and brown Veg worth many dollars. But I guess you need to have the skins to, that will produce the quality leather. The salemanager mentioned the quality of the liming and how it has delcined over the last few years and how this affected the finished product. So all up I guess a number of things have contributed to there demise but to pin point this is very difficult. God only knows what or where the locals will get thier leather from now on. Me included. PS I found this poster from the tannery back in the 80's. Though Id share it with you. Cheers Trevor "Way Down Under"

Hey there my friend. Yes its very sad indeed. I went down there in May and ordered heaps of stock which nearly broke the bank. Some of the staff down there tell me to keep a look out for NZ Leather suppliers Ltd which they will be setting up now as we speak and will be importing veg tanned crust from south America or wherever they can get it and colouring it hear in Auckland then selling it. They bought some of the machinery from Astley. I have enough at present but will need to look at this further down the year or maybe next year. Fern Country (who have also moved) said I should see them when I need some veg which sounds like they may have a supplier somewhere in the world ready to fill in also. You can still buy Astley veg at very big prices from Taurus Leather. They bought a heap as well but watch the price if you are to buy from them. So thats it at present DJ. But yes very sad to see a tannery fade away after so long in the business. I took a few photos the day I was down there if you are interested. Cheers Trevor "Way Down Under"

Thanks all very much for the nice comments. Will be starting a black one soon. Cheers Trevor "Way Down Under"

Here's some more pics... THanks Trevor

Hi there Just thought I'd show you all the Fob-Watch pouch I finished the other day. Im quite happy with the results. Thanks for looking Trevor "Way Down Under"

Hi there All Thought Id chuck in my method of doing the snaps for belt blanks thing. Its real easy and quite good if you want to change the buckle at any time. Works well with the trophy buckles that have no slot as well. Firstly mark out where your two snaps need to go. Allow plenty of room back from the fold of the leather otherwise the snap will easily come undone. Also allow enough space between the snaps so the keeper can fit. This belt in the photos has about 1 1/2 " between the centers. Next install the tops first in the fold over piece and set as per normal. (by hand setter or machine.) Next fit the keeper to the belt and press together by hand to mark the leather where the snaps actually sit. This will leave a tell tale mark on the leather to show where to put the next hole. Next make a small hole (big enogh to get a 10 -12 mm) rivet through. then put the (Jiffy rivet I think you call them) through the hole in the eyelet and then into the hole on the belt. This is where you actually rivet the eyelet onto the belt. Mount your setter upwards in the vice and place everything on top. Then put the cap on to the rivet end and hit with the hammer. Set as per normal. Note the rivet will form itself into the cup on the eyelet. This will allow the snap to work properly. Good luck Trevor "Way down under"

Nice work my friend. You did good. Regards Trevor "Way down Under"

Hi again DJ (Try this time) Here is the knife pics. The one that is fully covered is probably best for your pig knife. Cheers from Henderson Auck. Trevor "way down under"

Hi again DJ Here is the knife pics. The one that is fully covered is probably best for your pig knife. Cheers from Henderson Auck. Trevor "way down under"

Hey there DJ Nice to see someone else from NZ on this forum. The pattern you are wanting is one that covers at least half of the handle so that there is little chance the knife will fall out of its holster. It has to be slightly curved to fit the shape of the knife and so it can slide easily in and out. It should have gussets on both sides of the pouch or at least one if you go for a folded style. It should have a rear facing dome or tab system so it doesnt easily come un-done. The large bolster will stop it from falling out if the tab remains intact. If you make it from Veg tanned russet use 3.5-4mm thick hide. I have a few pics of some heavy duty sheaths if you want. let me know. Cheers Trevor "way down under"

Ray. Heres my opinion. Go and find a Juki LU563 large bobin walking foot flat bed or and old Pfaff cylinder arm waliking foot and keep away from the tippman. If you want to sew heavy stuff like 6mm and heavier have a good look at the Artisan toro range. Well priced and good at heavy duty Veg tanned stitching jobs and very adjustable. Cheers Trevor "way down Under"

Paul As hilly stated the AC "Clutch" motor is an AC "Mains voltage" motor that runs constantly and when you put your foot on the go pedal an arm moves the drive pully, through a clutch or slip ring system, on to the spinning motor shaft face (another "clutch") and starts to move the drive pulley and belt which in turn drives the machine. The advantages of this are, a very good variation of speed from very very slow or very fast depending on the pressure you put on the go pedal, and the size of the drive pully. This of course also relates to the speed of your machine motor. Some ar 2250 rpm and the slow ones are 1425 rpm. A very easy to set up and adjust clutch system and quite cheap to buy. Nearly all industrial sewing machines were fitted with this system. If you have ever watched a plain sewer from a clothing factory actually working, the workers are driving these machines flat out and its like driving a car at 150 mph. They will sew extremely fast and will get out of control very easily. They seem to learn how to control them but its all to do with your foot pressure on the go pedal. A lot of them now have electronic positioning sensors and speed controllers on them and will start and stop at the same place ever time. ie foot up. And you can set the speed to anything you want. Great. The DC servo system is quite new technology and its a DC motor so your mains voltage is changed to DC inside the control box. These motors are controlled by electronic controllers which make very fast on-off (start stop) and very accurately adjust to the constant speed that is required for sewing. I believe these too are relativley cheap now days. They are directly connected. So no "clutch" and when no pressure is on the pedal the motor is not running. Your foot pedal tells the controller to switch on the motor and go. Advantages are fast start-stop speed. very powerful quick start constant speed. Less maintenance I have both types in my workshop and dont really mind either type. The worst thing about a clutch motor is you need to learn how to feather the foot pedal to give both a constant slow speed and accurate stop start needle positioning which can take ages (years) whereas the DC servo you can slam your foot on the pedal and it will do the same speed no matter what. The amount of actual stitching that us leather workers do is relatively small compared with a clothing factory and clutches will last for years and years. They can however be replaced easliy and cheaply. I have used very small pulleys and also the speed control pully systems and both seem to work ok. especially for the slow speeds required for accurate leather stitching. Artisan (which I have a Toro 3000) will be able to tell you more about the servo motors and there uses etc. They have DC servo motors and when I first saw mine I thought this is a queer looking thing but have gotten quite used to it. Anyway must fly Trevor "way down Under"

ST Very nice pouches I must say . Can you say how you have sewn the edges together. Are they Hand Sewn? Cheers Mate Trevor "way down under"

Hi again Tonyc wrote an email to the Hong Kong company and she said that they are about $600US. Then you have to air freight or surface mail the press to your location. I guess it means that you are in for about a grand all up with exchange rate etc etc. (Aus $$ that is.) She asked me if I could tell her exactly what location and she would give a more accurate quote on that answer. So if you want to take it further I will give you all the details of her contact etc. Cheers mate Trevor K

hey there tonyc. found it here in NZ at one of there agents supply warehouse. Paid about $350NZ about 15 years ago. I can make some enquiries if you want and see if there is still an agent here or better still in Oz for them if you want.? let me know Cheers Trevor "way down Under"

Just thought Id show you my press. Made in Kowloon, Hong Kong. Excellent piece of gear for all of my leather work. including clicking small pieces. embossing stamps and moulding leather. Website is www.wingkaihong.com.hk Manufactured for the covered button and buckle industry. code number is "98" Very very useful bit of gear. well worth having. Cheers Trevor "way down Under"

Hey there guys this may help you all find the special domes that you require. http://www.dotfastenersdirect.com/index.html Cheers Trevor "Way down under"

Hi there Alvin I use these holster clips with a lot of the projects I make. You will see by the picture that I cut a second back out with two slots (just bigger than the clip itself) and fit the clip to it then sew the whole thing on then rivet the clip and back to the back of the pouch. That way everything is held secure and the clip cant move at all. This is a pic of my flip phone pouch which I use every day and the clip is great. I actually buy them from Lowery in Ca. Cheers T "way down under "

put the word "sporran" into google and then when it comes up click on "images". Heaps of them T

Hi there. I have made a number of leather pads for the 3 leg stools. The legs are about 2ft high and are held together with a 3 pronged bolt arrangement that is welded together. Now this must be made properly or it will fall apart when someone fat sits on it. that... you dont want. The bolts must be at least 6-10mm thick steel. they are layed out in a tri pattern, welded good and strong then fitted with dome nuts. The legs have a hole thru each about half way up and they too should be strong wood. when all fitted together they should splay out and then you can make the VEG leather seat. This is in the shape of a triangle with rounded corners. Make sure you glue and sew with heavy stitches good and strong also. Good luck T "Way down under"

Hey there Ryan About 3 years ago I purchased a Fortuna Bandknife splitter and it is fantastic. I had it converted to single phase but the price was right. I recently had a new knife blade put in and the whole thing serviced and it runs like a dream. I have the steel top feed roller fitted and it will split veg leather easily. It has a 12 inch throat which is a little small sometimes but I get by and I wouldnt be without one now. Cheers and good luck Trevor "way down under"