Sylvia

I am interested in a couple of the items: I'll PM.... for prices etc.

Thanks! I might just use this for my own guitar strap!

I sure wish people would remember the mantra. Loops on bottom, top tension.... loops on top, bottom tension. (though a lot of the time it just needs the top tension loosened) A backwards bobbin will hose you up. I've had industrial machine people tell me it doesn't matter.... but I have news for those folks.... It does matter. While most manuals won't say "thread must unspool from the bobbin to the left." if you look carefully at the pictures.... it will be clear which way it should unspool. It sounds to me as if you don't have the top threaded properly.

Never heard of spider wire. Got a link to some info?

I was waiting for some pictures... I did find the first and the last one... then.... well "F" it's not worth it. Enjoy.

Dang it Winterbear..... you got two of the ones I wanted. and you never would have noticed these If I hadn't revived the thread. <grumble> I thought that pictures were required in these postings.

Hi Katie: you'll need to put some resist on the places you don't want any color... let that dry and give it another coat.... let it dry AT LEAST 24 hours before you use a highlighter or antique. For what it's worth, I would recommend a bit more work on those oak leaves before you start the finishing processes. They look good but seem to be missing some decorative cuts. Good luck.

Hi Bee. I thought along about the same lines as you as far as budget and quickly found that my frugality was costly in the long run. $200 of your budget will likely go to shipping costs. Double your budget at least (probably more like $1500-$1800) and contact Cobra Steve. Have him look for a good used machine that will do what you need. He examines and adjusts used machines so you can feel confident that they are in good shape. He will not pawn some worn out hunk of junk on you. BTW... don't forget that you'll want reverse.

Exactly what I was thinking.... book press, printing press... the kind that uses human power. As long as the antiques aren't too expensive I think it would work great.

Not that I have (m)any but I was sent this and I thought I would share. http://www.youtube.com/embed/Xv1tMioGgXI?rel=0

This may be way off..... but if I were you I would try to find an old printing press. The ones where you set the type, place the paper face down and tighten the hand screw. Like this. http://privatelibrary.typepad.com/.a/6a01156f7ea6f7970b013487c159cc970c-800wi

Are you working in your kitchen? If so I would strongly urge you to move into another area of your home. Saddle soap may lift some of the oil.

Nice list of numbers. Wish I knew what they were. I did search a few but the first one and the last one were the only ones I found.... I might be interested in a quite a few but I'll need to see them. Can you lay out several with the color carve page up and they photographs for me please?

Have you looked at Black River Laser's template sets? I'm pretty sure they have a ranger belt template set. http://www.blackriverlaser.com/leather-craft-templates-gauges/

Are you sure your laptop doesn't already have a card reader? The last 3 laptops I've had, have had them on board. BTW, I never install the softwares provided by the camera companies. They almost always take over the picture extensions and when you've got other graphics software... it's a pain. If you find you have a card reader on board... just put the card in... and when the autoplay pop up happens, choose "open folder to view files" Then I just click and drag the file to my graphic software.

LOL I think I would be too. I've known some Latinos that were tools but never have seen one that had been tooled. ha ha ha.

I'll give you $15 for that partial spool of red thread, shipped.

I would probably address that question to Rit on their website. I know my dry fiber reactive dyes last forever, but they recommend using mixed up ones within 6 months.

Chrome latino? ha ha ha ha!! I think you meant, Chrome Latigo. I've tooled Chrome tanned, too, before I learned it "couldn't be done." lol It looked ok at first but it eventually just looked embossed. My Grey chrome tanned changes color with water... it gets darker. Mine doesn't feel as though it has a burnished or finished surface. It almost feels like suede... but not quite. But it sounds as if Natalie is pretty certain she got Veg Tanned.

Yes. on the table or on the floor... even on your lap if you want and can handle the weight. I tooled for months on a little patio table... talk about noisy... then put a granite slab up there and that quieted it down a lot.

Ok... so you can see... here' is the white-ish grey chrome tanned I have. Freshly cut the grey line is clear. Sorry Fellas....her leather looks chrome tanned to me. Natalie: your suppliers may not know it as Veg Tanned. Ask for Carving Leather or a brand name like Sherman Oak leather. See if your suppliers are better able to help you.

Natalie: When you cut your leather does it have a uniform look on the cut edge or does it have a greyish line in the center. The greyish line is indicative of chrome tanned and though you can emboss it... you'll never get a good stamped impression. If your leather's cut edge is uniform in color... it is probably veg tanned. As for casing... go to your bathroom sink... fill it about half way with warm to tepid water and a dash of baby shampoo or mild dish liquid. (just a couple drops) mix that up (I agitate with my hand like I would if I put bubble bath in the bath tub) allow the bubbles to settle until the bubbles are gone. Now the fun part. Grab your piece and give it a 4-6 second dunk. Pull it out of the water and listen do you hear the water soaking in and do you see little bubbles bursting on the surface? If so... you know this piece is taking in water. Wrap the piece in plastic bag and allow to sit FACE DOWN for at least 1 hour then flip it face up allow it to sit another half hour. Take it out and allow the piece to return to it's natural color. Now attempt your cutting and stamping. I suspect your supplier went for color rather than tanning process and you have chrome tanned. But I hope that's not the case. As far as your work surface. You definitely want a hunk of stone of some kind. Marble, Granite... something sturdy at least 2 inches thick should do it. A lot of us in the states have visited stone counter top places or cemetery headstone places for their cast offs. (misspelled head stones) or sink cut outs. They are mostly free.... but it is nice to bring them a treat as a way of saying thanks! Also make sure your tooling hammer is heavier. The more weight means a cleaner impression my two favorite mauls are 11oz and 16oz and I think I want a 20oz one too, eventually. I used to beat my leather until I was silly because I was using that crazy little wooden mallet that comes in some of Tandy's kits. Throw that away if that is what you have and get a real maul/mallet

Received mine this week and I am very happy. Thanks!!

This reminds me.... I had an idea a while back when folks were showing off their photo set ups and recommending diffused light and lots of it. I saw one of these http://www.walmart.c...oset/17108667 or this one http://www.walmart.c...-White/19625952 And though... hmmm.... photo booth. Add a table inside with a white cloth... plenty of lights outside directed inward... and tada... instant photo booth. Of course in this case the cheaper ones with thin white material is better.

I have a small home embroidery machine, I've been tempted to embroider some inserts to trap between layers of leather. If you really want to get into this contact Cobra Steve @ Leathermachineco.com and ask him about a Cobra Machine or a used one that will work for you. He's also very helpful and will work with you and take good care of ya. Paying a local guy to sew could get you by for a while but it will also increase your cost of goods sold. Just something to think about.