bruce johnson

For punching I would recommend something softer than the HDPE. I recommend either rubber sole sheeting or LOW Density Polyethylene. End gran wood blocks work too. These are much more forgiving on your edges than HDPE. HDPE is brittle and can crack as well.

I’m seriously interested, sent an email

I sewed quite a bit on a 205-64. It would do two layers of skirting well down to wallets. Three layers of skirting and there would start to be more needle deflection. I moved to a Ferdco 2000 for those heavy back cinches and eventually sold the 205. Even with that, if I saw another 205-64 for $850 and it sewed, I jump on it in heartbeat.

Joe, Bill Buchman put handles on the draw gauge blades he made. I've attached pictures of some.

Many of you know Rundi and I from dealing in vintage tools at shows and on the internet. We also sell new tools from Wayne Jueschke and Richard Brooks. Today I am announcing that we are now selling CS Osborne tools as well. We are starting off with a limited number and have more in the works and on the way. Please follow the link for more information and feel free to comment here or through the website. - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/new-cs-osborne-leather-tools-sale/ Thanks! - Bruce

I use boiled linseed oil for most wooden handles. Occasionally on hammers I’ll use a recipe of BLO, beeswax, and mineral spirits

Metal hammers will wear the striking end of your punch fast. Rawhide mallets with replaceable inserts are good and some prefer those. I like mauls and once we get into that tree then I like tapered mauls best.

It depends on a few things How sharp are your punches? Sharper punches or smaller punches and you can go lighter, - a #3 is as much as I ever needed for anything and not very often. About the only time I use a 3# is on rosette punches. They have a lot more linear edge than other punches and need a little more force. What kind of supporting surface? something with a little flex will need more force than a solid supported surface. End grain stump or post, punching over a supporting leg of a work bench will be more solid with less force absorption than middle of a bench. My punching setup was a piece of LDPE over a granite inspection plate on one bench or LDPE on a shoeing anvil. The mass of either support pretty well negated any flex of whatever it sat on. I sell a fair amount of mauls and mostly 2# or 2.5# for strap end and bag punches with the occasional 3# for the bigger punches or duller punches. Barry King' mauls are nice with a handle shape for a good grip.

I’m going to put out another perspective. There are old wood handle strap end punches designed to only be used by hand, simply rocked back and slice the end of the strap. Those need to be sharp. I sharpen my personal all metal strap ends to this same level of sharpness. I can pretty much drive any punch other than a rosette punch with a 1 pound maul. Easy punching is more fun for me. The punching surface is important. I recommend LOW density poly for punching, followed by either end grain wood or sole material. You want the punch to cleanly punch through and slightly into the material. These material allow that without deforming the punch edge. You need a good supporting surface under the punch material - i used an anvil or a granite headstone depending on which end of the shop I was at. I sharpen the outside edge and am a little spoiled. I’ve got a 2x72 belt grinder, 1x42 belt sharpener, and round platen grinder now to sharpen on. I go at least to 1200 grit. Once I have the edge I run a tapered Diamond rod sharpener to take off the inside bur. I buff with black and then green compound on the lower speed end of a variable speed grinder or a shaped leather strop wheel in my drill press to polish the edges. This can all be done by hand too, just takes time. I’ve attached a short clip of a punch I sharpened a few years ago. It is test cutting some scrap skirting on my workshop bench. Pre tripod era so one hand was holding the phone and one hand on the punch, not a quality video but you get the idea. . 26BC836D-BB11-40CA-95A7-832A182F20CB.MOV

Yes, it compresses and evens the top grain depending on how wet the leather is and how much pressure you use. A good lubricant like casing mix or saddle soap will slick the leather without much pressure and less burnish effect. I didn’t always do it on firm areas like backs. I did it on most areas where I might be getting into looser fibers like down the sides or into the shoulders. It made the cuts and tool burnish more uniform. On things that weren’t tooled I did it pretty soon after I got started and used increasing pressure to really glaze and slick the surface. It really makes a nice feel and finish surface. Kind of like that broke-in feeling of a wallet you’ve been carrying for a year - except you saved a year’s effort to get that same feel right off the bench.

Congratulations! You are in some good company in this issue! For those who don't subscribe to ShopTalk please consider it. These new owners and publishers have done a wonderful job of stepping up this magazine in the last few years. Sorry to say I cant be at the show this year. I used up all my free time at work and cant get away. It was a fun show last year and I expect it to be again this year. I am sure sorry to miss it!

Here's my take, they all will sharpen up and use them enough - they all get dull. I used to not think so but time has told me you cannot do the best job resharpening unless you use a jig. As far as jigs. I am pretty the Leather Wranglers blades will still fit the Tandy jig. Barry Makes blades that will fit the Tandy knives and jigs, and I know a few people have drilled out the Tandy jig to fit Barry's standard blades. Chuck Smith is back to selling the Big Red swivel knife jig. There are a few jig styles that hold the handle - Probably one of the more common is the Red Ox Brand jigs that Gordon Andrus makes. Nice media like a ceramic or diamond stone in a few fine grits or wet/dry paper and you are on your way.

I assume you are talking about slot or bag punches because some places do call them oblong punches. If not, ignore this. There is a general recommendation floating around to make the slot for a buckle the width of the strap. I don't like that. On a 1/2 strap that may not be enough or too much depending on thickness or buckle length. On a 1-1/2" it may be sloppy. On my smaller stuff usually a 5/8" was good. On a belt 7/8" was usually good. One horse gear with thick leather up to a 1-1/2 for back cinch buckles. Disclaimer - I deal in leather tools and have some opinions on makers/styles and generally they are wrong according to some email replies and phone messages I get. Feel free to contact me privately and we can discuss my opinions. Easiest way is through my website and there should be a link below.

Please PM me, thanks! - Bruce

I got linked in the thread mentioned above to a post from 2009 where I gave an opinion then. Here is what changed for me in 13 years - I continued to do a heavy amount of leather work (some know my past history) until about 5 years ago when I switched trails and started selling leather tools as the main part of the business. In the meantime since 2009 I had replaced every straight maul with a tapered maul. My wife does leatherwork for fun and uses some straight mauls once in a while I guess. I see them out on the bench. I have an article series going right now in ShopTalk magazine on upgrading tools and striking tools to me are the second thing to upgrade once you get a good swivel knife if you are doing any carving. Everyone needs a 16 oz maul for general tooling. Once you get that - go lighter if you are doing a lot of little sharp stamps like bargrounders, go heavier if you are doing geometric stamps with a lot of face. My tools paid for themselves through my and I ended up with 12 oz, 16 oz, 1.5#, 2#,2.5# and 3#. What I used depended on the stamp or punch. Realistically the only time I use the 3# punch much is punching out rosettes. Which maker to go with depends on a lot of things. I have mauls through here from most of the major current makers. I've had the $20 Amazons on up too. Which one to choose depends on your anticipated usage, what you will tolerate, and your budget. Light use on the occasional billfold for a fun hobby, the smooth nylon head/wood handle Amazon may be OK without tying up much money. Stamp three notebooks a week that you sell and a grippier head and ergonomic handle more expensive version should be more enjoyable to use. That maul will pay for itself. Every user has a favorite handle, head material, and price point. There are several makers out there to fit that. I've got my personal favorite and that's one of the reasons I sell that maker's particularly.

I’m not sure of the current regulation with having it but I’m not thinking you’d have much of a chance of being inspected at your shop. I’ve never heard of it. At one time businesses could buy things the average Joe couldn’t. Not sure where that stands now either. The inspection stations at the borders are usually looking for ag pests unless you are driving a commercial. I get inspected about half the time I’m pulling a trailer. Open the door, they look, I go on. They aren’t opening totes or boxes.

Bruce Johnson Leather Tools Oakdale, CA - but I ship world wide with very limited exceptions https://brucejohnsonleather.com vintage and refurbished leather tools and bench machines - nothing with a motor is my general rule new tools and stamps from Wayne Jueschke and one or two other higher end makers in the works. one person shop with a very helpful and understanding wife.

Similar concept with the blade in the handle and utility knife blades. The other one does not have changeable inserts though.

Nice design, and looks very similar to the one John Bianchi at Frontier Gunleather designed and sells here in the US. The grip is a little different but same principle.

Heavy harness leather. You may be hard pressed to consistently get 19/20. Necks on heavy cattle can gauge that but butt thickness will be less usually.

I've got a Ferdco 2000 I bought from Ferdco before they sold to Hoffman Bros. It will be for sale at my estate sale. It was bought at the time when you couldn't touch anything that would do saddle skirts for under $5000, and with attachments mine came to over $6000. It has paid for itself several times over. The only thing I've ever done was upgrade to an analog servo motor when they came on the scene. RockyAussie is correct about the feed dog. The original Ferdco lower dog has a diamond shaped hole that will allow some minor needle deflection and bring the needle back to center as it feeds forward. It is not a true feed dog on the bottom. Personally I never had a problem with the machine sewing up and down from two to three layers of skirting on my overengineered roper back cinches. That said, the Hoffman Brothers may or may not have all the same modifications that Ferdco originally made.

Currently I've got a series of articles going in ShopTalk magazine about upgrading from the entry leather tools and make-do tools most of us started with. Since the striking tool section is already published I am comfortable with sharing my experience and insight. I think everybody needs a 1# maul as the first upgrade for striking tools. Most stamping can be done with that one pound weight. You can choke up or hold the head for light work. A few people will find they want something lighter for small face stamps like bar grounders, seeders and figure carving and for them the next one is a 12 ounce. Most people find they want a larger one for larger geometrics and flower centers though. That's where a 1-1/2 or 2 pounder would be that next purchase. When I was doing a lot of stamping, I looked for one hit wonders. You hit a stamp four ways with too light a maul or mallet, you just took four times longer to finish. Too heavy and you waste more energy holding it back. One controlled hit with the right size maul and go on. i used 1, 1-1/2, 2, and 2-1/2 mostly. If 12 ouncers were readily available, I'd have foregone lunch for a few weeks and that 12 ounce would have been in my lineup even in my black hole period of life. My 3# was for concho punches and that was about it. Not all mauls are the same and there are several good makers. There are at least three or four different head materials used. Different makers have different balance points. Handle shapes and materials are all over the map. Straight vs tapered is another consideration. For me in my progression - head material that transfers the force without being slippery and wears well. A little head-heavy for more of a deadfall effect and less swinging and extra arm force behind it. leather handles have more grip for me. A tapering butt on the handle gives me more rebound action when I am rocking wrist stamping like a teeter-totter. Tapered head so I can rest my elbow on the bench or keep it lower at my side if I'm not resting it. These are the reasons I used mauls from a particular maker when they became available and sell them now.

In my experience it depends on the project and the look you are after. I used a lot of acrylic finishes on chrome tan. Diluted Future floor finish, Super sheen, but Fiebings leather Sheen mostly. For coasters and placemats it gave them some measure of water and stain resistance. Stuff like that I did several light coats (like maybe 6 -10). On gussets that I wanted a little body I used it on both sides. I also used it as a base coat to firm up and lay down fibers for slicking edges on chrometan. Apply and let dry, sand lightly, maybe another application if I felt like it needed it. Then went to my wax of choice. If I dyed the edge I did that first and maybe second dye step after sanding.

Frank, I don't have any on hand that aren't spoken for already. The guide on yours is different and I may have one like it that I haven't scabbed parts from yet. I know I had one with a broken guide but you could get the idea of it if it is still there and not scrapped. I should be in the shop tomorrow

Frank, You probably will not like what I've got to say. It is nothing like a bell skiver and never will be even close to those capabilities. This is the earlier American version. The top wheel is the feed wheel on this one, the bottom wheel is just an idler wheel. The top wheel will mark the exposed side of your leather and you will not be able to easily rub those marks out. Adjustment can be a bit tricky on the blade. It needs to close enough for the leather to feed from the wheels into the blade without the leather riding up or down, but not so close that the teeth on the wheel catch the blade. Yours is missing the guide that feeds the leather into the wheels at the set width. That is going to be hard to feed one handed, keep it feeding straight, and crank with the other hand. The later American version has the bottom wheel as the feed wheel and aggressively milled, top wheel lightly milled or smooth. There was a stop for the blade adjustment, and a much improved feeding guide, plus likely a slightly wider blade.