Samalan

Beautiful job !

would really like to see that when it's done, I would think you would need to augment the leather around the hole so if your going to line the back side maybe a piece of 4 oz skived or not but I like it. now you went and got me thinking.

TEXAS CUSTOM DIES.

Welcome from " Boston the hub of the universe where it all started". Your just 3,090 miles or just a 51 hour drive anyway Welcome ! have fun with it.

Very cool excellent work !

That's a first class job Dwight as with all the work I see you do. I'm sure they are going to love that. Thanks for showing.

Bathroom tub and tile mildew cleaner in small amounts then oil it this has worked for me.

wow very cool

nice work !

sorry did not see this had some problems last week and was away yes it does but not to many places to go thanks for asking.

that spider thing sounds a bitt strange .

looks like a nice rig ! but that front piece across the chest sure looks like a nipple pincher to me.

I once heard a minister say something very close to that . LOL

You need wood block head shape 1. 5" thick taper to match hat height . for the upper hat I would use 3oz vegtan with bag stiffener and satin liner . for the brim same 3oz vegtan with bag stiffener in between 3oz top and bottom glued and stitched around outer brim with a nice burnished edge. finish Black pro dye with top coat of resolean top seam flat French hand stitch no overlap 6" brim skive glue and stitch to top ,hat liner inner band stitched at the same time hat height around 14" hat dia head plus11" Price around $550.00 each

Spyros thanks for helping out you said everything I should have said LOL good advice my friend .

never use junk use the best and do your best work , and if it's not good do it again. but don't use junk or all you will get is junk.

Ferg that's very nice work. I'll never see your age, life was a pretty rough ride for me heck I never got the 500 mile break in, not complaining just sayin. but that's some very nice work my friend.

Yes I did I was not sure at the time if the roon would bleed in the tooling on the very outside edge but inside around the letters that's black dye and even at that it was a lot of work thanks for asking .

Beautiful work!

I can't think who it was either but we must have saw the same thing because it was a game changer for me also that's funny we sharpen the exact same way and it's very fast and effective . I can get ten strops or more before going back to the stone, and at that it's just a quick touch.

I agree I use a piece of glass 3/8" thick 4"x 12 " with wet dry it works great I like to keep sharpening separate from other work as it tends to get a bit messy .

I use a 400 diamond 2" X 6" then white bar strop some folks say white bar is to course not for me, for me it's time my method is very fast and it would be rare to need anything sharper I use this method for wood carving tools, leather round knife, swivel knife, hunting and tactical knifes, Technique is always important always remember when you are sharpening you are shaping as well because you are removing metal all the time. as far as sharp go's I had a friend who was a woodworker like myself, one day he came over to my shop to see how the carving job I was doing for him was coming along. He said he just bought a Tormack sharpening system said I really need to get one I told him that's ok I'm all set, my tools are sharp enough, as he was reaching across my bench to take a tool from the tool roll I had out he said ya but how sharp can you keep all these things. Everyone who uses these "things" knows you never cut yourself when using one, it's when your reaching for one, next thing I know he's bleeding on everything yelling wholly shit those are f---king sharp. I said yes very, and we laughed like hell, a few years back my good friend past away. He was a wonderful cabinet maker and Friend. Sorry about the story. but when I think sharp LOL I think of that day.

Dremmel tool with diamond burr cut serrations across inside clasp then on the leather cut serrations like a v groove side to side then epoxy, the epoxy should go inside the clasp first so when you push the leather in it pushes the epoxy into clasp don't use to much but you need enough to get into the serrations sometimes you can tape the leather but not veg leather clear system 3 epoxy works good an epoxy paste even better you can color epoxy also hope this helps good luck with that project .

Depending on your height so the work top would be about half way between your wrist and elbow then it should be right for you. hope that helps

If you have a 30" stool you should have 1 foot from the top of the bar sorry I meant the top of the workbench to the top of the stool head this witch would end up 42" same as your favorite bar 42" then you can make some bottle steps for when friends come over by the way the overhang should be 12" from the front edge of the Chicago Roll to the front of the die forget the roll that could get in the way for leather work . Actually my bench is 40" it's a great working height I stand while cutting and doing layout work and 40" saves my back any stamping work is done In an 18" office chair and 30" bench height woodcarving is done on the 40" bench also no drinking though but if I did it would be at the 42" bar.