Constabulary

I´m sure your wife would be very pleased if hubby would make some sandals for her - how is that? Don´t say you don´t have the machines for that

If you have a round bobbin then yours is a Dürkopp 17 with oscillating shuttle hook. Only the Dürkopp 18 has this fixed boat type shuttle. Check with LW Member SHOEPATCHER - He probably has a few parts he could part with. Reg. resizing pictures - if you have a Microsoft Windows system try this one: https://www.digitalred.com/support/windows/image-resizing/ I´m using it for years and cannot live without it - very easy to use.

I have no english manual - I once bought a German photo copy on Ebay put figured some pages are missing and some are double - forgot to complain so my fault I have no complete manual.

Hey Alex - you are welcome. Yes that actually was the hook I bought glad you have not bought both back then. Have you bought the binder plate from College Sewing - does it fit for your 230

belief me - they don´t - if you have a Dürkopp 17 or 18 no parts from Adler or Singer will fit. Last year I restored a Dürkopp 18 and I have restored a few Adler 30 and Singer 29K before - there is noting interchangeable. The FB guy probbaly mixed up Dürkopp and Adler (Co. nowadays called Dürkopp-Adler). Some parts of the Adler 30 can be interchanged with the Singer 29K - thats true. Dürkopp and Adler were separate Co. until the early 1990 so its possible that he mixed up something. The best source for spare parts is a 2nd machine

no problem at all. Only info I found on 108-3 is this: http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/used/used-singers/108w.htm Open a new thread for it - would like to see some details.

Some pictures of the chipped crackle coat and the result after touching it up with VHT crackle paint This is the new hook - actually a NOS hook for a CLAES 230 made in the former GDR but its really good quality. Hook fits just perfect I only had to reposition the from bushing since the "hub" on the hook is a bit shorter than on the OEM hook. OEM hook was attached with 2 screw to the hooks shaft but new hook is pinned to the shaft so I had to replace it completely.

Thats why the machine is mounted on an adapter plate. The 2nd machine I can use on this stand is my 29K71 patcher machine. Just have to loosen 4 screws and install the other machine which has an adapter plate too. Can post a picture later. Sorry no information on the 108-3 - is it a flat bed machine? 108 came as cylinder and flat bed machines. Maybe CowboyBob or Gregg from Keystone Sewing know more.

Pfaff 545 for sure are / were made in Germany but you won´t find them new I think - maybe refurbished but not new. Adler and Pfaff are still present in Germany. The higher end M-Type Dürkopp-Adler machines are made in the Czech Republic by MINERVA as far as I know.

Needle hook timing should be the same as on your other 45K so compare the timing cycles I suggest.

I have this machine for a few weeks already. Got it (head only) in a trade for Adler accessories. Machine came in a good and functional condition but I had to clean and refurbish it a bit. I have installed a complete new hook and hook shaft. Crackle coating had some chipping on a few spots but was able to touch it up with VHT black crackle paint - turned out quite good So I think I first show the ready to go setup and the tell the story a bit in reverse. Haven´t seen many of them here so I first I post some technical data in case someone finds a similar machine and needs some information: Singer set up the 108w20 machine as synchronized binder sewing machine. - Factory Stitch Length: max. 7 SPI / 3.6mm - Foot Lift: max. 8mm - Feeding System: Triple Feed / Unison Feed / Walking Foot - Max. Speed: 2700 SPM - No Reverse - Arm Length up to the Needle: ~140mm - Arm Diameter: 46mm (Hook Cover) - Hook Type: Rotary Hook - Thread Lever: Link Take Up Lever - Bobbin Size: 22mm x 7,5mm - Needle System: 135x1 / 354 / DPx1 / Sy 1451 - Weight (Head only): 19,5 Kg Similar machines are: Dürkopp 460, CLAES 230, Singer 108K (Made in England), Singer 108U (Made in Japan) The manual gives a god idea how to "tweak" the stitch length - I played around a bit and I´m now able to sew with approx 4.75 - 5mm / 5 SPI w/o binding. I can even adjust it to a bit longer stitch but then I have some light binding in the mechanics and that's nothing you really want - obviously. So ~5 SPI is pretty much a good sore for this machine I think and I don´t need more so I´m good with this. "Temporary" motor is a 120Watts / max. 4500 RPM 1950´s era KOBOLD step motor (I think that's how it is called in English) in Germany we say Anlassermotor. Motor is not very powerful at slow speed but speed reducer adds some torque so it works quite well for my application. Sooner or later it will be replaced by a JACK servo but ti will last for a while I think (and hope). The machine originally was setup for a different type of "shell binder" attachment but the one I have installed works better for the thicker tape I´m going to use. So first some pictures of the ready set up and then I go back in time a bit with he pictures. Will check with the Admins hope they can add the manual and parts list here: Manual: Manual Singer 108w20, 108w21.pdf Parts List: Part List Singer 108W20 .pdf

Original needle stem for Dürkopp 17 / 18 is Sys. 657 but they are no longer manufactured. Alternatively System 88 needles will work. Some later model Dürkopp may take 332 LONG needles. 332 LONG has the same length as the 88 but slightly thicker shank.s

Bump after 1hr? Give folks a few hours or days... You have to be patient... If you need quick information do a google search f.i. for Consew 206: site:leatherworker.net Consew 206 replace "Consew 206" with the model you need information of.

Coud be a Robert Kiehle, a Christian Mansfeld or a Heinrich Koch / Kochs Adler machine - Stand ist from Heinrich Koch / Kochs Adler so its likely the machine too. See some similarities? Its likely that I will not restore mine (not enough time and patience for this project) - mine is not sewing so I cannot help with adjustment but if you need parts or accessories from it ....

Claes patchers are for sure the best you can find. However - its the same as with all other sewing machines. It depends on what you want or need. If you can live with an average stich length of 4-5mm and you don't sew thicker than let say 6mm to max. 8mm then I would buy one of the later Singer 29K models like 29K71, 29K72 or 29k73 (or a well setup China clone) - reason is the availability of after market parts for these machine. Meaning on the long view you can always find reasonable priced spare parts and they are available almost everywhere. Meaning using a later model 29K machine for a long time can be very economical. That is the main reason why I´m using a 29K71 though I could easily find CLAES patchers too but they all have a long arm. Other reason for my 29K71 is the nice short arm - is very space saving and machine weight a lot less - (easy to move / transport). Down side is the small bobbin but I can live with it as I´m barely using my 29K71 but its a nice to have machine. If you want to use the machine in a business I would not buy a Singer other than the below mentioned because spare parts of the earlier models are hard to find. Some earlier 29K machines share parts with the below mentioned but most wear parts (especially gear box parts) are absolutely obsolete and have not been produced for many decades. Well - the 29K60 and 29K62 are candidates I would consider too as they just differ a tiny bit from the below mentioned: 29K71 - short arm, small bobbin 29K72 - long arm, large bobbin (approx double the capacity) - uses same hook as Adler 30-7 / 30-70 29K73 - long arm, small bobbin That does not mean earlier 29K´s are bad - its just the situation of spare parts that make them "less attractive" - in my opinion. Adler 30-1 / 30-10, 30/15, 30-7 / 30-7 have approx the same capabilities as the Singer 29K model (same presser feet, stitch length, foot lift and hook sizes) with exception of the 30-7 / 30-70 - it is using a longer needle and can sew approx 2mm sticker (up to approx 10mm). But Adler machines are technically stuck at the mid of the 1930´s - they are pretty much still the same. Just just minor things have changed but no real big improvements - well they changed the casting but the basic sewing technology is still the same. Singer actually made a few steps forward technically and that lead to that they (and not Adler) are nowadays heavily copied by many Chinese manufacturers. THATS the reason why spare parts for the above mentioned Singer 29K are available at fair prices. 30-1 / 30-10 - long arm, small bobbin 30/15 - short arm, small bobbin 30-7 / 30-7 - long arm, large bobbin, higher foot lift, can sew ~2mm thicker than any Singer or any other Adler 30. 30-3 and 30-5 are not very wide spread so I do not list them. Problem: Adler spare parts are EXTREMLY expensive and no generic or aftermarket parts are available (as far as I know). A new Adler machine is not better than a new Singer 29K machines. And from my experience Adler is not better build and is not lasting longer than a Singer 29K. A worn Adler can have the same problems as a worn Singer 29K - they even share some parts (same presser feet, hooks and bobbins...). The big advantage of the Singer 29K is the spare parts situation! However - one should not underestimate the capabilities of the 30-7 and 30-70 but again - it depends on if you really need their features or not. I don´t need these feature! CLAES Patcher are class of its own. Being honest the nicest patcher I have ever sewn with was a 200-3. That was so unbelievable smooth running and made stitches of approx 6.5 - 7mm. Was a tough decision not to keep it but I just don´t need a patcher of this size so I kept my little 29K71. I have worked on more Adler 30 and Singer 29K than on CLAES patchers so my technical knowledge on CLAES is limited. The longest stitch length of any Claes patcher I have seen (no matter the age or condition) was 6mm up to 7mm at max.. Seems they were ahead of its time and their feeding system is causing less wear on the parts. Let me try to sort the models and sub classes.... The Mod. RPX and Mod. 200 Claes patchers are approx the same - I actually do not know the difference between the two. Either one came in 3 (RPX) or 4 (Mod. 200) basic sub classes and all have a long arm #1 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm #2 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm #3 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm #3A - large bobbin, longer Sys. 328 / 214 needle system - can sew up to 15mm PRX was not available in a #A3 subclass if I recall correctly. #A3 came with the Mod. 200 first. However - the #A3 subclass is extremely hard to find. Successor was the CLAES 8245. It also came in 4 basic subclasses but you had many more option regarding the stand and motorization. The basic sub classes are: 8345/10 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm 8345/20 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm 8345/30 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm 8345/40 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 328 / 214 needle system - can sew up to 15mm The latest / up to date CLAES patcher model is the 8346 - it only comes in 3 subclasses. It is the most expensive patcher ever I think (when bough new) but for sure the most technically advanced model. 8346/10 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm 8346/20 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm 8346/30 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm If I had to choose between a new Adler 30-70 or a new Claes 8346-30 I would immediately choose the Claes 8346-30! But CLAES parts are also quite expensive (hooks are very expensive) - still would rather choose a new Claes than a new Adler. I once visited the CLAES factory. I was in the area when I picked up a used band saw so I took the chance and asked for some spare parts which they sold with a smile. And that was so cool - they have a ZIGZAG variant of their 8346 and they even demonstrated it to me though I bough just a few bits for a few bucks. That is such a cool machine!!! Great service there!!! But thats a different story. BTW - some os the spare parts still remained the same meaning some parts of the 200 model are still available but not all. Pfaff or Metro Special 8346 are all made by CLAES - Pfaff just puts their label on it. Belief it or not I once even have seen a CLAES patcher with Singer decals. All above to my best knowledge and my own opinion. Maybe SHOEPATCHER can make a few more commends on CLAES patchers - the above is all I know.

wiz - do you mean the spring on the needle bar on the 29K? Or I got it wrong I think its purpose of the needle bar spring to avoid thread rebound. I had this on a Adler 30-1 the thread always jumped out of the path (at the stud near the top tension discs) until I figured the needle bar spring was worn (grove in the center of the pedaled end). The thread regulator spring is holding the thread taut approx. until the needle penetrates the material (f.i. for preventing needle piercing the thread). The thread loop is formed when the needle rises from BDC and the friction between material, needle and thread is forming the loop. I guess the problem is your thread and / or the needle. The machine is meant for sewing with a heavily waxed thread and I would guess the thread is probably to "slippy" for this machine. Waxed thread is causing more friction especially while forming the loop. If you know what I mean. But thats just a guess... I know usually 346 thread requires a 26 needle but I would try a needle one or even 2 sizes smaller (depends on your thread). I also have some certain thread I got from a former tent maker and I wanted to use it with my DVSG / BUSMC #6 but it did not work at all. Changed the thread and voila - perfect loop forming and it works like a dream. Sometimes it is just odd and you don´t know / can´t figure why.

Ha - now you are bitten by the Cast Iron Bug It´s a sole stitcher, right? Top tension looks like there is a pulley between the 2 discs which is okay in this case but I would guess you have to wrap the thread around the pulley - if you know what I mean. Seems it has no thread regulator spring - maybe you also have to wrap the thread around the post where the thread regulator unit supposed to be. Just a guess

I would guess it is a BROTHER S-1000 / S-7200 clone or similar - check pictures at the College Sewing Website (see link below). I guess most of the brother machine of this type will use the same hook. if you find the screw - order 2 or 3 of them along with needle screws, tension spring and screws a thread regulator spring, maybe tension unit nut spring and discs, needle plate screws, feed dog screws and other useful screws and small parts - you will be literally "screwed" if you loose them in the middle of a project (this happens) and you have no replacements. Better have 2 of each as spare! When I setup a new old cast iron clunker for my self, the 2nd thing (after restoring and adjusting) is looking for small screws and bits. I get most f my stuff from College Sewing in the UK. Their Brother section: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/brother-industrial-sewing-machine-spare-parts/

I belief sometimes SV machines just differ from stock / off the shelf machines by the accessories the machines came with. But there are no records available what in particular every single SV machine was set up for or what accessories they came with. Agree with Jimi if your machine is like the one UWE has liked it is a flat bed machine with reverse. In case yours comes with accessories I´d like to see what it is in particular. Not many 45K´s with reverse are around most I have seen just had plain forward stitch.

You are welcome - glad it was just a small issue. Too bad but the #20 its gone.

So that was it? Is it "walking again"? Don´t know if this is a common problem but I recall that I had a similar issue when I worked on a friends Claes patcher. Thats for sure not something you should expect from a refurbished machine. But as on all other sewing machines - things like this just happen sometimes. I would watch it and if this happens on and on I´d check with the dealer.

Please post some pictures of your machine - first thing I woulds guess is that the stitch length is adjusted too short but that would be too obvious I think. Or (just from pictures I have in mind) the Transportkeil (sorry no english word for it in my dictionary for it) "popped" out of place. The Transportkeil is handing on a rim on the needle bar bushing in which the needle bar is going up and down in. But thats a rough guess at the moment.

$100 just for the wiring? WOW Can you post a picture of the wiring he did in the motor junction box? Hope he did not forget to install the capacitor.

YES! We have the same plugs in Germany.