Constabulary

I´m sure you can manage it - it is not rocket science but a bit of trial and error until you have found the best setting. The good thing is that you learn a lot when you do it on your own. Sooner or later you have to do it again and then you know what and how to do!

Maybe this post could be helpful for you: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=59250&p=382015

That is the needle deflector, you can carefully adjust it / bend a tiny bit but be really carefull!!!! But before you do that check if the hook tip meets the needle scarf ~ 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is on the upwards stroke. BTW - your hook tip is broken or blunt as it seems but I´m not sure it just looks like.

sorry - no pictures...

yes - thats right!

So do I - but fortunately I´m "healthy" enough to sell what I don´t need. But I have a feeling that sooner or later I will have a few more than I need. I´m fortunately not interested in domestic machines (I had a few but thats not my part). I like the vintage industrial medium + heavy machines.

in the lower right corner is a brown button "MORE REPLAY OPTIONS" there you can upload the files. I would assume you just have to adjust the needle bar a little bit. Check if you have insert your needle correctly. The needle scarf has to face exactly right (towards the hook). When you turn the hand wheel the hook tip has to meet the needle scarf about 1.6mm above the needle eye.

BTW - seems this lever is wrong assembled. The curved end has to rest on the end of the other lever

This machine has no ball bearings. I just have restored a similar 29K1. This must be something else but the 29K does not have any ball bearings. You probably have to bent the small spring on the shuttle a little bit or even replace it.

Is the needle hitting the hook "hard" and you cannot sew or is it deflecting the needle or is just the hook tip touching the needle? its always a good idea to post some pictures or a video of what is going wrong. Most likely your timing is off or you have insert the the needle in a wrong angle.

I´m almost done with I´m just waiting for bell crank lever and some screws. New paint is silver + black. It will no longer use the treadle base, I have motorized it

it depends - older Pfaff 145 f.i. have the same size as the 111 type machines but the more modern ones (Adler, Pfaff, Durkopp...) have a longer base because of having the option to set it up as 1 and 2 needle machine.

in the lower right corner is a brown button "MORE REPLY OPTIONS" and there you can attach files

a Consew 227

I´m not sure what you mean - can you post a picture of your "situation"?

BTW - you bicycle saddles really look AMAZING!!!!! I was alway thinking about putting a new cover on my worn Fi'zi:k Nisene.

If you want to replace the timing belt you have to remove the large top shaft bearing at the hand wheel. I would not do any timing before you are done because you have to re-time the machine anyway when you replace the belt. This is your timing belt but please compare the parts # in advance http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-153W-SEWING-MACHINE-TIMING-BELT-PART-224195-/290723339611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b0761d5b

Shuttle Race Cover is SOLD If some one is interested in the remaining parts - I take offers.

Would love to come + see your collection - can you send me a ticket? Economy Class is okay

some pictures of the bottom housing. When I polished the name plate I found a different nomenclature on the backside of the tag - pretty interesting (but not overwhelming). I just have ordered the bell crank lever for the 29K71 and will see what I can do with it...

You mean this machine can sew 1" thick leather? I´m sure it can´t! To me it looks like a needle feed machine and I would assume it can sew maybe 1/4" of leather or less. Seems the entire top thread tension unit is missing. Pretty poor condition - how much do you have to pay for it?

c´mon - $200 is ridiculous! Only because parts are no longer made does not make it to a piece of scrap metal. It´s the same with oldtimer vehicles, you just have to be patient and you have to have some extra space to store it. I think everything below $1000 is a good deal if it is working but that does not mean that it is not worth some more. I would buy one too if I had the chance and some extra $.

I´m using grease only in capsuled gear boxes f.i. my 307G2 has one and the 133K3 has two. My 111G156 and the 29K71 get my favorite S-761 oil. As Shoepatcher said, grease holds dirt, lint and so on. Oil in best case and when used frequently will wash out some of the dirt. I still oil my 133K3 about twice a month no matter if I used or not (stupid hum?) as some of the bushings still "spit out" some old dirt bound in the oil that is dripping from the machine.

Have you insert the needle correctly? Is it probably the hook tip that "shreds" your top thread when it is going to catch the loop? Try to lower the needle bar a tiny bit. But before you do that check where the hook meets the needle scarf. It should be about 1.6mm above the needle eye.

I just stumbled over this AMAN SERABRAID thread: http://www.amann.com/en/produkte/serabraid/ I have not used it or heard of it before - maybe a new product but AMAN is well known for high quality thread.