Constabulary

M-size bobbins are not small! They are about 1" in diameter. I have a bobbin guide - don´t know where it came from but I have it on my PC ...

I just thought because of the hand crank as there is no belt but no problem at all, it was just an idea

... lamps From time to time I´m checking the eBay for vintage lamps and other nice vintage "junk" and what sometimes is crossing my search is that some people turn broken or unwanted sewing machines or just parts of it into lamps. A neat idea and some of them really don't look bad. And with a little work you really can get some good bucks for them as it seems. This is probably and Idea for you Steampunk fans out there... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Singer-Jones-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331272661602?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d2163aa62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Chrome-Singer-Sewing-Machine-Table-Lamp-Light-Steampunk-Retro-Industrial-/331270801796?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item4d21474984 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SINGER-1935-99k-SEWING-MACHINE-TABLE-LIGHT-LAMP-STEAMPUNK-UPCYCLED-/380962930355?pt=UK_CraftsCollect_SewingMachines_RL&hash=item58b328feb3

Hey CD - any chance that you are interested in a machine mounted bobbin winder for you 205? I remember I still have one from a Singer 45K. It has a rubber wheel that runs on the hand wheel. I don´t want money but maybe we can talk about your 1.5" wide webbing roll. I know shipping will not be cheap but maybe we can figure out a deal. I will post a picture tomorrow. It looks like this one - I think it could work with your 205...

aaaah - okay! I can imagine 2 ways of how the spring is installed inside. One where the round vertical bar goes through the spring and one where a smaller spring is below the bar. Not sure if I described it well - you know what I mean? Any chance that you could take a few pictures of the darning device when not installed?

how about these FAXTEX buckles + hardware? http://www.fastex.com.au/itw-plastic_buckles.html

I have to say that this is by far the ugliest and most unprofessional looking and unfinished machine I ever have seen. This is something I´d expect to see in a Chinese province, somewhere in the darkest Russia or in a development country but not in the western hemisphere. I hope it does not come from the same factory the other Chinese machines come from. This thing seems to work but who honestly wants to have this thing in a professional looking shop? Just my 2 cents - others may have a different opinion. Men, is this thing ugly!

I see! That make sense! With other words this is an extension nut / coupling nut and a T-Bar with a threaded lower end that is screwed into the nut, right? Or is there a spring inside the nut that prevalents the T-bar from moving? This is at least something I could imagine.

I´m pulling this old thread again because I don´t wanted to start a new topic for the same problem. I´d be interested how darning with the 29K works - I tried to find information but can´t find any. I unfortunately cannot tell from the picture in the 1st post how the "T-Thing" looks like and how it is working. So I hope someone can enlighten me.

No doubt it will go through the 10mm material. I also have hand cranked machines when I was testing them (Adler 4, 104, Class III...) but as CD said, I always felt that my right hand is missing to guide the material properly. But everyone has it´s preferences.

Thats why I´d prefer a motor driven machine. Isn't a heavy treadle the better idea for a such a heavy machine? BTW - is that 1.5" wide military webbing? I´m looking for such webbing Any chance that you have a source for surplus military cotton webbing of difference Classes + Types??

Consew offers free parts list to download. Just look for your type of machine and I think you`ll find all information you need. Also, look for the parts number of the screw for the lever so you can be sure you don´t buy anything wrong. http://www.consew.com/Resources/ And if you don´t have an instructional manual you can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/255RB-3.pdf

see above picture - just have edited it. I´m in the same situation. I have to buy a binder or binder set for 3/4 tape next month. One more pic how it looks installed

if the plate next to the needle plate (the that covers the hook) has no holes you have to drill 1 or 2 and tap a thread for thumb screws. Or you buy a new attachment plate http://www.ebay.com/itm/SLIDE-COVER-ATTACHMENT-PLATE-RIGHT-INSIDE-240003SP-SINGER-111W-CONSEW-225-226-/290723349952?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b07645c0 This is how a complete set looks like:

The Lever can be found on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-255RB-S-N-PRESSER-BAR-LIFTER-PART-10659-/290723355426?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b0765b22 But you also need the screw which comes from the right (when you look from behind) for attaching the lever. The screw serves as pivot point as well. I may have one if you can´t find one local but it comes form a Singer but should fit w/o problem. But I have to check first. Not sure about the other 2 things but the spring is probably for holding an oil wick. Do you have a parts list and instruction manual for your machine?

Yes that is the bushing. It may sit very tight in there. Only tap on the outside and not on the part that was secured on the upper shaft. I have attached a picture from my restoration

A servo motor + speed reducer is for sure the better idea - much more torque than just a treadle!!! Sure, you just need some bolts and tools + 1 or 2 new V-belts. Depends on where you install the reducer + motor.

I like it very much! Very nice clean & functional design.

that may work but w/o the model name its hard to find out the specs of the machine. And from this tiny picture you cannot tell the feeding system (walking foot, needle feed) ... and so on

You of course have to buy needles that have the same length. The needle system is 216x1 or for leather needles 216x2. If you can´t find 216x2 leather needles you maybe can try a different needles system with an approx. same length but then you have to adjust the needle bar. An alternative needle could be the 328 System but I´m not sure how different the length is but they "look" close.

Seems to be an Asian clone of the Pfaff 335 or Adler 69. I think it is more a light to medium machine. You often find these as a binding machine so I think you can´t sew very heavy with them. If you have a model name I think one can find out more.

Sometimes - it depends on the angle that the thread runs into your thread tension discs. Having a flat angle can prevent the thread from popping out of the discs sometimes. I had this with a friends Singer 211. A flatter angle solved it.

was not easy to convince you The 45K is a quite mighty machine but for sure of of the best vintage machines you can hand crank due to their large heavy hand wheel. As I said before - maybe a Singer class 111w (flat bed) with walking foot or a Singer class 153w (cylinder bed) with walking foot (walking foot means compound feed / triple feed / unison feed - all the same but different nomenclatures) is an option for you. They can handle about 3/8 thick material w/o problem, most have 5-6 stitches per Inch and can take up to a size 26 needle. They all have subclasses (like 111W155 or 111w156) . A sub class marks technical differences. Considering the 111w155 and 111w156 - they are the same but the 156 subclass has a reverse lever the 155 has non. Please don´t ask for a list of subclasses - I don´t think there is one (or is there one?). But when you google the machines you will find manuals or information from other sources like leatherworker.net or so. There are of course many clones of the mentioned Singers from brands like Juki, Brother, Seiko, Consew just to name some of the most common you can find used for a reasonable price. But don´t ask for all the models or brands - there are just too many. You may also look for Pfaff 145 or 545 or Adler 67 or 167 with walking foot (all flat bed). They are all the same class as the Singer 111w but made in Germany. But there are also subclasses with technical differences. You see - you have to learn a lot and as you probably have noticed most people have owned more than one machine before they have found the one that suits for their purposes. I´d say I had about 6 or so until I figured what I really need / want. I started with a Singer domestic machine made of plastic (1980´s made or so) and I ruined the gears it within a few weeks (it cost just 15€), then I had a singer 316 (treadle powered and a bit like the 201 but with zig zag, different hook and so on) - not strong enough and struggled with thick thread and needles. Then I found a Pfaff 138 - great machine but struggled with 3/8 webbing material and thick threads though it was s a sturdy industrial machine (due to its simple drop feed I think). Then I found a nice Pfaff 28 cylinder machine with roller foot but it had tiny bobbin + feed dog - so pretty useless for me. Next was a Adler 4-23 - a HELL of a machine with 2800 rpm clutch motor but back then I had no clue that I can change pulley or even the whole motor so I sold it (today I wish I still had it), next was a Adler 104-2 with a 1400 rpm motor - a great machine, nice large bobbin (same as the 4-23) but I was not able to find additional presser foot for my purposes so I installed a not very well fitting roller foot - that was better but still not perfect. All mentioned machines are sold again. I had one or two more but problems where very similar - I always found them not suitable for my purposes. Then I found my current machine - a Singer 111G156 from the 1950´s - the 1st with a walking foot - I have restored it and since then it runs like a dream. I recently have added a servo motor and speed reducer now it is absolutely perfect for me. I will keep it a s long s it lasts - I really love it but a larger bobbing would be nice. Other that that - a really great machine!!! Big advance is that almost all spare parts are quite cheap and very easy to find. And you can get a wide range of accessories for it. Then I bought a Singer 307G2 (late 1950´s - 1960s made I think) for zig zag tacks and sewing lighter materials - this is also a great machine and even has a large M style bobbin but it cannot sew what the 111G156 can sew thought it uses the same needles but it has just drop feed and a quite wide feed dog - hard to explain but I just can use it for zig zag and some lighter flat materials but I also love this machine!!! And it even fits in the cut out of the table of my 111G156 so I can use 2 machine on one table and with 1 motor (just have to change the V-belt) My latest machine is a Singer 29K71 patcher / cobbler machine from the 1960´s (also a restoration project). I always wanted one with a short arm as the long arm patcher just take too much space. I just use it for repairs in spots I cannot reach with my flat bed machines. It works great but this machine is not very precise in sewing long straight seams. So this is not a machine for producing something it is more or less a repair machine for short seams of maybe 2 inches or so (this so far is my experience with it) And I still have some machines on mind of which I think they could be useful for me but I have to try them before I can make a final decision. Any maybe I´ll figure they are not useful - so you see - a lot of trial and error on my end but I have learned a lot and would not miss it.

Honestly - read the pinned thread and watch Arthur Porters video. This is all you need to find a suitable machine. Both come from experienced leather workers and not from a "fart burner next door" - don´t buy everything you see on youtube or read in ebay auctions. HERE it the place where you get 1st hand information from people who really work with their machines and not only sew a few inches for a youtube video. This probably not what you want to hear but thats how it is! If you don't trust the people here, buy a 201 and try it - it may work for a while with thin needles and thin thread but I´m sure you will have problems with a 22 size or larger needle. A 201 is something Mummy repairs her skirt with but when Daddy needs a new tool belt or rifle sling I´m sure Daddy will be quite disappointed with the result. Or what do you think why there are these heavy industrial sewing machines out there? They were build for a reason and not to fool people. BTW - have you noticed how the machine struggles at the beginning and how it pulls up the entire belt? That guy probably restores machines but is not working with them all day or even for a living. It is one thing just to own an "instrument" but playing the instrument it whole different story! I only can speak for Germany and the 45K can be found for 200€ up to 400€ (not $) when it is a flat bed - cylinder bed may cots 200€ on top. But you´d rather find an Adler 4 or 5 than a Singer 45K over here. Price depends on the condition and what accessories comes with the machine. There is not the one and only price for something. At the end you have to find the machine and decide if you are willing to pay the price or not. It may be a long journey or just a short trip as the member "Hi Im Joe" had one! You now have got a lot of good hints & suggestions now go ahead and try something! And forget this 201 thing - Again - read the thread - watch the video!