Constabulary

Hey Johan, I guess you mean the inner thread take up spring which sits in the tension assembly on the face plate, right? Try College sewing in thew UK: http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=45K Or just ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300720923095

Cool - you can´t go wrong with just $70. Seems it has the hook on the left side due to the cut out where normally the hook is placed. Anyway this machine is worth every penny if it does what it was made for... But welding could be a problem since it is a cast iron housing. Not everybody can weld cast iron. As far as I know you only can weld it when the cast iron is HOT (very hot) but heating the iron could cause damages to the mechanics. What I would do is cut a piece of 3mm or 4mm thick sheet metal and glue it in with JB kwik Weld, clean it, sand it and repaint the machine or just the base plate. Just my 2 cents.

I didn´t take the bearing apart. I took it off for changing the timing belt. I have attached a PDF parts list for your machine. Seems the bearing has 3 parts+ screws. BTW - for some reason I wrote NEW bearing at the above post, seems I had a weak moment. The bearing is not new, I just removed it, replaced the timing belt and put it back in. When I tapped it out I put the driving shaft against the wall with a thick piece of wood between wall and shaft. You know what I mean? 111w155 Parts List.pdf

here is a picture of the scars I tapped into the new bearing - you see I was not gentle!

Last year I restored a 111G156 which is about the same machine but with reverse. My bearing was very stuck too. I almost thought I will ruin the machine when I tapped out the bearing. I was not gentle - really not! As fas as I remember the shaft was slightly thicker toward the hand wheel. Bearing went tight over the shaft when I put it back in but since then it sews like a dream. I still have a picture

To bad I cannot edit the 1st post. Okay, so here are the pictures: Picture 1 shows the data plate of a 370Watts PFAFF clutch motor which can be run on 220V and 380V Picture 2 shows the original 380V setup of this motor Picture 3 shows the setup of the same type motor changed to a 220V + capacitor for clockwise rotation direction Please compare the pictures with the diagram in post 1. Please note thats the "earth" is just on a different screw but this does not matter. One capacitor cable goes on the "free" bridge and the other goes on one of the other bridges depending on which rotation direction you need. So thats all - it´s a quite easy task! But again if you know nothing about electricity DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - ask a qualified electrician!

I know that very well but fortunately disasters were few! Good luck with the machine.

This is a factory wiring diagram from a PFAFF sewing machine clutch motor which shows how to run a 380V 3 phase motor on just 220V. It is in German and English language I hope they translated it correctly. This diagram was inside the junction box so I took it off and scanned it. I thought this could be very helpful for those who do not have a 3 phase 380V power connection. I did this conversion a couple of times and never had a problem! How to chose the correct capacitor: rule of thumb: capacitor = 60µF to 80µF per KW Assuming the Motor has 370 Watts = 0,370 Kilowatts (KW) 0,370 x 60 = 22.2 µF 0,370 x 70 = 25.9 µF 0,370 x 80 = 29.6 µF So capacitors between 22µF and 30µF will work. I always choose a 25µF capacitor as it is just in the middle and works fine. And you of course have to change the plug! I will take some pictures later from the junction box of the motor I recently have converted. WARNING: Then diagram is for conversion from 380V to 220V - I don´t know if this works in the US with110V but I assume so but don´t know for sure!!! If you know nothing about electricity and you do not understand the diagram - DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - better ask a qualified electrician.

BTW - has the 226 a reverse lever? As far as I know some of the older 226 do not!!!

The Adler 120 is a Monster, this is the successor of the very heavy Adler 20. I think is one is way to heavy compared with the other machines. I think the Adler 167 has the best reputation but is expensive and the parts + accessories are expensive too. I´d go with the Consew 226 as it uses the same accessories, sewing feet and so on like the Singer 111w and parts+ accessories are available even on Ebay. You will be amazed what you find when you enter Consew 226 on Ebay. An the price of the 226 is quite good but depends on the overall condition. But since you are buying from a dealer I guess it is in a good condition.

everything is replaceable. question is if it is worth the work / money. I´d say it pretty much depends on the condition / age of the machine.

looks like one of the smaller domestic machines. I probably will sew 2 or 3 layers of garment leather but picture is too bad to tell the model.

Considering the prices I´d take the Toyota too. But even when it has a little bit the look of an Singer 211 this does not mean that the parts will fit. The Adler 167 looks like the Pfaff 145, Duerkopp 241 and Singer 155 and so on but they all use different parts. I would not count on it that the Singer parts will fit especially since you do not find much information about the Toyota machines!

just cleaned the face plate with needle bar, presser bar + some other parts and noticed they punched the last 3 digits of the serial number in almost every part. Just like serial numbers on guns.

when the Adler cots 600 more that the Toyota - how much does the Toyota cost?

Thanks but I´m about getting a copy of the original manual but haven´t received it yet. So I hope it will answer all my questions. In case I don´t get it I will email you. Thanks again! I just emailed SCHMETZ because of the needles, they don´t have / make them anymore but their Product Manager emailed me back and said I should call him tomorrow... I wonder what else he can tell me... You are welcome! I hope I can bring the machine back to life.

Just like today. Any chance you know where to get the needles? A few are included but they are old so I don´t know if the last when I start using the machine.

After oiling and some cleaning I opened the housing (just 3 screws) - what a nice simple design! Meanwhile I can turn the hand wheel and parts are moving but no sewing yet.

Men, I love these old machines. The last picture looks a bit like the Adler III I recently have found. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54432

My latest restoration project - an early 1900´s ADLER Class III leather sewing machine. This seems to be the forerunner of the Adler Class 4. Yet, NOTHING is working but I´l give this old Lady some TLC and see if she will work again... I just wanted to share these pictures since they do not show up often.

Just a short statement as I´m on the run... The Adler 48 is pretty much the same machines as the Singer 17. Maybe this helps for finding some more information. I think both are not the ideal machine for the job. You should probably look for Consew 227 oder Techsew 2700 or Cowboy / Cobra equivalent. They are all the same type of machine Just to give you an idea: http://raphaelsewing.com/blog/?p=78 Have to run - sorry...

I´d try a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger than the one you are using atm. Larger needles punch slightly larger holes so that may solve your problem.

Found this on Ebay Germany: http://www.ebay.de/itm/150-Stueck-alte-Naehmaschinenkoe-wbr-pfe-Singer-Phoenix-Duerkopp-Pfaff-Veritas-5595-/171259162579?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

Duuuude $2350? I would never pay that much for this machines. I thing $800 - $1000 should be okay. Well, the Adler 5 machine is a great machine but very old. The old Adlers are build like tanks. The successor is the Adler 105 and their successor is the Adler 205. I had a few Adler 4 flat bed and they will last forever. I never ever had any issue except the posts of the thread tensioner broke but thats an easy fix. Shuttle hooks and bobbins are easy to get but everything else is hard to find. But you will probably never need any spare parts! Since it has a a kind of top feed (or moving foot) the presser foot a bit special and almost not available except you find some machine enthusiasts who may have some spares. Needle system is 328 - easy to find! This is not a real walking foot machine, the presser foot moves back with the material and flips forward again as it is spring loaded! I personally do not like this system! Just my 2 cents

Have it for sale on Ebay - better price is possible outside Ebay. http://www.ebay.de/itm/331144053846 Machine runs on 220V with a 400Watts SIEMENS clutch motor with 50mm pulley. EU wide shipping is possible but I have to figure out how much it will be. I may also have some accessories which I will only sell to the buyer of the machine (if he wants them).