Constabulary

Can you post some pictures of your machine please? Some 133K´s were darning machines. I don´t know the 133KSV1 so would be good to see some pictures. I once owned a 133K3 which was a quite nice drop feed machine.

A lot of small business even struggle with their websites and still run a late 1990´s style website w/o a proper web shop. Some probably never have heard of https or responsive designs. Sailrite is creating demand with their videos - like see what you can do / what is possible - you can do that too / why don´t you DIY? They understand marketing and created a well known brand and they can deliver all you need for certain project at open stop. They do it the smart way and they are big enough / have enough employees to do so. Depends on your location and there is a bigger demand on car service than on sewing machine service I guess. How many people with a car do you know in your street and how many with a sewing machine? Cars are more complex too. You can be with cars on your own too - not impossible. There s no simple answer that covers all aspects why certain Co´s or businesses do or don´t do this or that. But a lot depends on the Co. size / number of employees.

with a chain or wire cable.

Ha - excellent! Glad you solved this.

I remember is this video. Especially check from 9:50 min onward. Maybe you can check on your 145 if you have the same issue cause the stitch length lever seem to be the same on the industrial Pfaffs. Just a guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtT7QejY2eQ

They usually cost a few bucks only singer parts # is 202259 https://www.trojansewing.co.uk/?s=202259&post_type=product&type_aws=true

I have not worked on Pfaff machines for quite a while but what I would probably try is to set the stitch length 1/2 way of the longest factory stitch length (if 6mm then to 3mm if 4mm then to 2mm....) and try to balance the F & R stitch length equally. The idea is that the amount the stitch length is off is approx. the same in shorter and longer stitches and probably not as significant as when you adjust it from the longest stitch. Not sure if this is what Pfaff recommends and I have not tried this by my self (have nothing to work on atm) but may worth giving it a try. Makes sense? Maybe, maybe not. I know a lot of folks prefer Pfaffs but I (obviously) do prefer Singer (or Singer based) triple feed machines cause they are fairly easy to adjust F + R stitch length like on the 111 and 211 models - the later 211 (at least the 211U) even have a screw for hat.

deleted - sorry

was a double link above, this is what I had in mind https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yfwePfD-iU

MTV woke me up with this when I was in Bosnia well, speaking of Sandra Nasic (Guano Apes) - some of my 1990´s 2000´s favorites were: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNo2-viKfW8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNo2-viKfW8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9jJufz9RNE Last but not least

Industrial standard thread size is usually not calculated by diameter it is calculated by weight per 1000 meters or similar. The diameter is an approx guesstimate - in most cases to help (or confuse) the end consumer. Linen thread is another story. Have fun with this: http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/ccdentex.htm This table may be useful too.

if you have the same machine as mentioned above then pushing up the stitch length lever is putting this machine in reverse. The screw left of it is a limiter screw for the lever and sets the stitch length.

looks like an early Dürkopp 17 - kind of.

Send me a PM with your email address

Are you using a round point needle or a leather needle? Have you tried a 1 size thinner thread on the bottom or maybe a 1 size larger needle?

I have no 441 type machine but I know there are harness feet for them. Maybe you can shorten the toes a bit if needed. https://www.ebay.com/sch/14339/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=441+foot Maybe the left toe foot does the trick

You did not say what machine you are using. If it is some sort of singer 111 machine then this foot set may help to sew closer to the hardware https://www.ebay.de/itm/224401640036 if it is a 441 type machine an inline foot set may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76502-inline-cowboy-presser-feet-on-cowboy-cb4500/

These are my DIY winder - I also have one more for the large 132K6 bobbins. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75580-diy-electric-bobbin-winder-singer-111-and-45k-type-bobbins/

I don´t know what they (still) produce in Bielefeld (Dürkopp-Adler) but the plant is still there. The new DA M-Type machines are build in the Czech republic by MInerva https://www.minerva-boskovice.com/

IMO timing belts are not really an issue, modern timing belts are quite long lasting. Old aged not well kept machines stored away in unfavorable conditions (dust, oil, heat, cold, moist, maybe sun or a combination of one or more) usually have problems with timing belts. Adler and Pfaff used some sort of brownish timing belts for a while (in the period when 67 or 167 and the like where en vogue) but they have learned and no longer so. So the issues with timing belts you read about are usually found on machines that have been stored away for many years or decades in unfavorable conditions. I would not worry about that when you buy a new machine.

Belts are a No? It does not matter if a machine is an "upholstery machine". Its sewing capabilities matter and you can easily sew heavy letter when the machine is equipped with a proper motor and maybe a speed reducer. The 267 usually sews with 138 thread and 207 (as mentioned earlier) when properly set up. And depending on the subclass I´m sure 10mm leather or maybe a little more should be possible but usually they can sew what ever fits under the foot. But without knowing more details about the machine (subclass f.i.) we only can guess. But belts are not a problem at all.

Thread guide is not original but should not be an issue cause they were used on the later 212 models as well. To start with he timing marks - when the timing marks line up the thread take up lever should be it is upper position - can you confirm that? Read page 21 in the manual I linked above. Your check spring is too low, there should be a curved rest behind the tension unit held by a screw which you can reach from the right side of the tension unit - see page 15 of the manual. Also make sure your safety clutch in engaged (if machine has one) - see page 22 Thats what I would start with.

check the the post #3 and the linked PDF in it https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84610-looking-for-a-manual-for-my-adler-467-fa-373-g2hp/?_fromLogin=1

I´m pretty sure this is an excellent machine - but IMO less is more on the long view. Of course if you have a large volume output all the bells and whistles makes the sewing live a lot easier but if not you have to ask your self when will it start earning money. And keep in mind this is not a "simple" patcher which you can service by your self (and some even struggle with this). I only can guess but I´m almost certain machines like this require to turn them in for service. So it´s not that you pay just the machine service and parts are cost factors too. You often see folks here and elsewhere who buy (even cheaper) machines and sell them soon again. Reasons may vary but I´m sure some just bought too much machine for what they really need. my 2 cents

Skipping stitches are of then the result of a too high set needle bar or hook too far away from the needle. Anyway - it may help when you post pictures of the situation on your machine or post a YT video with some explanations. Does this 111 manual (Single needle w reverse) help you - maybe? You find mechanics instruction from page 15 onward. I have the manual in better quality too but I had to compress it to upload it here. Manual Singer 111G156_compressed.pdf