Constabulary

okay - I have two screws but they are not the 207 I think but both fit in place. One is a bit too long but that one has a wider screw head like the 207. sooooo - dja want em? Will check another box tomorrow maybe I find something closer...

Maybe this helps https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76830-source-for-type-i-bobbins/

let me check - I may have one but be patient...

maybe this Singer 111 sales brochure gives you an idea - try to compare the listed values (SPI, foot lift...) with the actual machine: Download link: https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=163742

wild guess - is it possible that the machine is just skipping a stitch in reverse? Its very unlikely that the F & R stitch length differ by exactly 50% (as it seems). Is it possible that it is just a needle / hook timing issue?

some pictures may help...

Do I get you right - you fear you have a wrong hook saddle because of the color? Why do you think the color is important? So other than the "wrong" color there is just a gear missing, right? I would probably check with Keysew in PA or College Sewing in the UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/9101912090000-bevel-gear-pair-genuine-pfaff

I`m always using rattle cans for painting machine castings When ever possible I would leave on the old paint as long as there is not too much rust or the paint is badly flaking off. There is no better primer than the old sewing machine paint - especially the old black paint. BTW - make sure you remove the paint from the contact areas between top and bottom fasting and so forth...

I have been sewing webbing with it but I replaced the machine with a Singer 45D91. I usually have sewn with 4-6mm stitch length. Regarding tools - well it basically was a couple of screw drivers. I cleaned the internal mechanics with paint thinner. Spare parts you find galore at College Sewing in the UK: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-132b-132k-133k-parts Seiko SK-2 and Mitsubishi DY253 are similar and share a lot of parts. Mechanically... well I replaced a few parts like check spring, bobbin case retainer spring and feed dog the rest was cleaning, painting and needle / hook timing and smaller adjustments here and there. If you want to restore your machine please open a new thread for it. Check this thread there is a manual for the 132K6 flat bed version linked but the needle /hook timing values are the same as for the 133K8 cylinder machine.

Beast? Heavy? You will be surprised what "real" industrial sewing machines weight when setup with motor and so forth. The 127 is rather a dwarf compared with "real" industrial leather sewing machines.

I don´t have a cobra but sometimes needle bars start rising a little bit. If it was me I´d check the NB height and maybe would try to lower the NB a little bit - maybe 0.5 -1mm. Just to start with...

maybe... not a machine I would use but if it works for you - why not.

Cool find! Never seen before. Dedicated binder machine and w/o reverse I guess.

Domestic Singers sewing machines are not what I`m interested in so honestly I do not know. So wild guess - a Singer 216 maybe?

a walking foot / triple feed cylinder arm sewing machine maybe with addition of a flat bed attachment. Like Pfaff 335, Adler 69., Pfaff 345, Adler 169 or similar.... depends on what available on your local market.

my opinion - basically all drop feed straight stitchers are quite the same. They may differ a bit technically (rotary hook, or CB hook... different type of thread take up lever...) but there is none really bad I would say (speaking of industrial machines not domestic / home sewing machines). I would look for one with reverse function (older machines sometime lack the reverse function). And if it was me I would look one with for a wider feed dog like Singer 20U or its clones, Pfaff 138, Bernina 217, Adler 1217, Singer 457 (industrial not domestic), Singer 307G2. BTW - all mentioned machines have zig zag too - could be useful too but depends on your needs. The Singer 457 is a machine with excellent parts situation - you get a lot of different parts and accessories for this model. BTW - I have a 307G2 and I´m very pleased with it.

Pfaff 335, Adler 69, Seiko LSC-8BV and to my knowledge all cylinder arm machines with horizontal hook (bobbin loading from the side) have a plain back and forth going feed dog which is not oscillating. They are all in the same class. They all can be set up as "plain sewer" or binding machine. Some come as plain sewer some come set up as binding machines. The differences are the arm cover plate, different needle plate / throat plate and a different feed dog + different presser foot set - thats basically the main difference. If the machine is set up as a "plain sewer" (not binding) its even better because the parts you need for setting them up as a binder machine are often cheaper and easier to find then the parts for setting it up as a plain sewer (f.i. for Pfaff 335 and Seiko LSC-8BV) Sounds stupid? But thats how it is. Feed dog can have different size needle holes. So when you are checking out the machines check the foot lift height. Especially the Adler could be of a subclass with lower foot lift. And check if they can handle the max. needle size and thread size you want to use - usually its 138 or metric #20 thread.

Question is what kind of leather work do you want to do? The 45K1 is a heavy drop feed sewing machine w/o reverse, it can sew approx 10-12mm leather. Its has an aggressive feed dog and the feed dog will leave marks on the underside. But hey - generations of leather workers have used this type of machine... So it depends on the product if these marks matter or not. I have a drop feed 45K too (cylinder arm 45D91 to be precise) and the feed dog marks do not bother me. But I mainly do rather "rough" leather work like leather handles for crates and the like or I repair vintage holster, military police equipment and stuff like that. Often you do not see the underside or it just does not matter cause the original leather item, (like military holsters) already has feed dog marks. So it depends...

Question is what means "the best around" and who is a specialist? People who own a Adler will tell you Adler it best, Pfaff owners tell you Pfaff is best. Seiko owners will tell you the same because most machine owner do not have a 1:1 comparison with other brands. You can be sure both machines will do their job as long as they are set up properly. A proper set up Seiko is better than a poorly set up or worn out Adler an the other way around. So its not only the brand or the workmanship you also have to consider the grade of wear and if the machines have constantly been serviced. I have owned beautiful 1950´s Adler 69 and I can tell you it was not possible to get the forward and reverse stitch length equal - I know there should be and eccentric behind the lock lever for this adjustment but there wasn´t one. Why? Because (I think) it was a dedicated binder machine for some sort of special binding operation. Don´t ask what operation in particular, I was not able to find out even Dürkopp Adler did not know the subclass anymore. So I was not happy at all with this machine. But that does not make the Adler 69 a bad machine in general - it was just the wrong machine for the job. So - we all do not know how your machines look like and how they are set up so my statements is rather "general". Adler parts and accessories are very expensive sometimes. And the Seiko´s are mainly based on Singer machines and they share a lot of parts and accessories. That makes the parts a lot cheaper. Other brands like Juki, Consew, Mitsubishi and many of the nowadays Chinese made machines are using Singer parts as well. So parts are rather cheap and easy to get. And that makes the Seiko the more economical machine in the long view. So basically there is no answer to which machine brand is good or bad - question is are the machines set up for the job and how is their condition. So the Adler will not disappoint you if properly set up / set up for your job and I can make the same statement for the Seiko. Best advice is to test both machines and then decide which one works better for you / the job. Sometimes it´s just a feeling that makes the difference.

Yes, greater ratio between motor pulley and the larger hand wheel pulley slows down the sewing speed.

agree with what Cobra Steve said in the linked thread - SEIKO parts are cheaper and the LSC-8BV is using Singer 111 presser feet which are very easy to get and fairly cheap often. Many other parts are Singer type too like the tension unit and so forth. So If I had to chose I´d take the Seiko.

some of the Chinese made Singer 29K closes have a grove in the hand wheel. check pictures here https://www.sewtex.de/Ledernaehmaschine--Sattlernaehmaschine--Schuhe--Schumacher-Naehmaschine--Schaerfmaschine--Pelz--Leder-Naehmaschine/Long-Arm-Patcher---Shoe-Repair-Machine-2973--Adler-30-7--Schuhmacher-Reparatur-Naehmaschine--Saeulenmaschine---Leder---Schumacher---Schuhenaehmaschine.html just to give you an idea - not sure if that helps...

technically it seems to be the same thumbscrew but your machine is probably the earlier model I think. But the manual seems to be right for your model. Manual is on the way.

There should be a thumb screw under the front lid with this thumb screw you can raise and lower the head (the thing that looks like a fulcrum beak) It is like the presser foot on regular machines it puts pressure on the materials and w/o a certain amount of "foot pressure" this machine will not sew properly. If you have problems adjusting the head height turn the small checkered wheel (looks like you have a wheel instead of a lever) a bit to the left while turning the thumb screw. Do you have a manual for your machine - if not send me your email address by PM Can you post a few full view pictures of your machine?

It is an M6 x 1.0 screw, 33m long shaft with 4.5mm x 15mm end w/o threading - see picture I have no spare - sorry!