Constabulary

A few pictures would be nice but check this thread: If it looks like yours maybe you can get a manual of the THOR GB6-180-2: http://www.sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/en/leather-upholstery-machines/thor-gb6-180-2-cylinder-arm-extra-heavy-duty-top-and-bottom-feed-walking-foot-sewing-machine-detail EDIT: Brain fart: when I look close to it it kinda appears to be (roughly) a modernized version of the Singer 133K8 (seems feet are the same - or not?) but with different hook and stitch length mechanism... As I said - roughly... Machine has no needle feed I guess... Or an updated cylinder version of the Mitsubishi DW-253... kinda

post a video if possible. hand wheel / pulley wobble is either a bent shaft or hand wheel / pulley it self. Probably because of an accident or mishap during shipping / handling. if it is just the hand wheel I would guess one of these could be a placement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-BELT-DRIVEN-PULLEY-WHEEL-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-Juki-Brother-15mm-shaft/132487025827 https://www.ebay.com/itm/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-V-BELT-DRIVEN-PULLEY-WHEEL-BIG/132486870387

x100 rpm I think. The 500rpm are the lowest max speed you can set (I guess you have a JACK servo, right?) but the lowest start rpm are 200. TOXO - what servo has the Adler 69 - any make or model markings?

Don´t know where you are living but Collge Sewing in the UK has them: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/226292-swing-guide-singer-111w-211w-211g.html or check ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swing-Away-Edge-Sewing-Guide-226292-For-Industrial-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine/401372513600

#19 needle sounds good for this machine - the bobbins are very small (I had an Adler 48 - pretty much the same machine w. same hook) and therefore it cannot hold much 138 thread though I was able to run 138 top and bottom (polyester thread). When the machine shredding thread it often is just the needle bar that needs an adjustment (often a little bit lowering). But of course hard to tell from the distance and depends on if the machine is setup for the original needle system and you are using the correct needle. But also could be a burr in the needle eye or somewhere in the thread path.

haven´t noticed that these feet have been discussed before... @NylonRiging - maybe worth checking with them - meanwhile the Chinese Ebay sellers f.i. ship overseas again. Maybe KH just has not updated their front page banners.

The 307G2 is almost the only machine I own which have not really restored, I only cleaned mine and it worked really well. So I can only guess here and only can make suggestions. Hopefully someone else has more experiences with this machine. I will soak up any information. So from my experience the 107w seem to be very similar in its ZZ control (as far as I can tell). The "screw" you marked sees to be the shaft for the ZZ drive gear. You can download a parts list here: https://www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/adqbmhsh.pd Also there is a 107w Video maybe if gives you an idea for adjusting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdGD7D9QCUk Sorry I really cannot help much here. I wish I had a 2nd machine "to play with" EDIT: I have a better 307G2 parts list but file is to big to attach here (11MB), send me your email address by PM soI can send it to you.

Found this while looking for ZZ feet with L+R side guide. Haven't seen this type of presser foot for the 441 type machine before so I just wanted to share this. http://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=462 Maybe useful for some folks here.

Have you checked the position of the L - R "push lever" - is is centered? Have you checked the position of 2 limiter thumb screws left and right of the ZZ lever are they set to the far left / right?? The 307G2 has a small eccentric stud but this is just fine tuning for the needle position, just wanted to have it mentioned in case you did not know. Loosen the set screw from the left and then you should be able to fine tune the needle position - see pictures. But this will not solve your problem.

I don´t think we can estimate the market price for this machine in Slovenia. Market prices differ a lot from country to country. So just offer what you think it is worth / what are you willing to pay. Maybe between 500 and 1000. You sometimes can find them dirt cheap from people who do not know what they have but since it is already equipped with a servo I would guess the guy knows what he has so I would probably say 600-800€ and you have a good deal. Don´t know if the seller considers this as a good offer so its up to you and what you are willing to pay. To give you an idea - this seems to be the head only: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/naehmaschine-adler-5-27-industrienaehmaschine-fuer-sattler-schuster/1401310342-282-4417 or scroll down here - seems its sold https://www.shpock.com/de-de/i/U4M_Wtko0RFki0YZ/naehmaschine-adler-5-27

sorry - wrong track but maybe an optional way for attaching binders there are right side slide plates with a raised part and screw holes for attaching binders but I haven´t seen them for sale recently... If your machine has a front slide pate you may be able to attach binder on this plate as well but it may not work with you current binder or you make a bracket to fit the binder. Maybe you can post some pictures of your machine + binder you want to use EDIT: this is the "raised" / built up plate but w/o holes. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/240003sp-slide-plate-built-up-111w.html EDIT II: This thread maybe be useful for you

like this one? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/226292-swing-guide-singer-111w-211w-211g.html

even when you pay more (when buying directly from China) you never know if it is the same part with just a higher price. No one knows in advance... But buying from a dealer with a good reputation most likely is the best choice. I figured that JUKI and SEIKO oem parts are of a way better quality compared with what you get directly from China via Ebay or Aliexpress or so. Yes, a bit more expensive but trouble free. I received some very good parts directly from China (f.i. complete hooks for $12) but also some rubbish parts. I usually buy OEM Seiko & JUKI parts for my Singers from College Sewing in the UK and what I can´t find there I try to find on Ebay (from China).

for needles check with College Sewing in the UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=794+needle Not worth buying just a pack of needles but you may find other useful things too.

I would not contact people by PM asking for a business idea. Thats what the forum is for and you for sure get more answers here than by PM - kinda crowd intelligence I´d say. Starting a leather business when you come from zero (meaning w/o any skills) is probably a very hard way. It´s easier when you come from a hobby (and you are good at it / have developed certain skills) and then try to start a business. From zero to hero is very hard I´d say. Start making leather goods for you and your family & friends or your community (maybe even for free?) and ask for their "not sugar coated" opinion. And I tell you there is a lot of sugar coating. People often tend to say ooooh, thats so nice even when it´s not.

You seem to be a religious person so why not going this way? Figure what people like you (religious people) could use - like bible covers, bookmarks, belts, bracelets with religious symbols... Not really my world but I´m sure your community / church my be interested in certain leather products with religious symbols or psalms, portrayals or what ever... You know better than I.... Just to give you an idea - check etsy: https://www.etsy.com/market/christian_leather https://www.etsy.com/market/religious_leather But be careful with plain copying other peoples products... Develop your own distinctive products - maybe even interfaith leather goods. I´m sure in the US you have a more religious "streams" than we do but again you know better than I. So why not some Jewish influenced leather goods (decorated tefflins, kippa or so) https://www.etsy.com/de/search?q=jewish leather or maybe even something for the other religions (if your religion allows this). EDIT: BTW - you probably have chosen the wrong forum section for this question. The Member Gallery is not where I would expect a question like yours but maybe a moderator can put it in the right section (maybe The Business > Getting Started)

Better buy Singer based machines

Looks like a Dürkopp 17. You have to reduce the file size to post pictures to lets say 1200 x 800 pixel or so per picture. max total file size per post is 1.46MB (meaning all picture together 1.46MB)

thats probbaly a bit over the top, isn´t it? I´d consider this a s rather small problem and I think we all know that new "devices" sometime can act differently. Loos like you can easily extent the lever even w/o welding - looks like the are 2 screws - or not? I would check with the dealer and explain the problem, he should be able to get the customer a proper solution. The spring on the lever does not look very strong or heavy I don´t think it could cause enough "counter force" to break a chain when pushing the pedal. The presser foot spring is for sure much heavier.

check with Shoe System Plus http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Needles_c_131.html

There isn´t anything cooler than vintage Singer sewing machines **kidding** Maybe you like to see some pictures of the former Singer Sewing machine plant in Germany:

all said.

Beginner for what - sewing horse saddles + tacks, making wallets + purses, sewing shoes + boots, producing sports equipment - there are soooooo many different branches in the leather trade... The point is even when you make a list of sewing machines you also have to cover subclasses - meaning machines which are not necessarily setup as the most common "of the shelf machines". And subclasses can be misleading.... Sample - the Adler 69 (popular sewing machine) came in let me guess 20 subclasses and most likely the Pfaff 335 (another popular model) as well - not speaking of Singer, Seiko, Juki, Mitsubishi, Consew and an endless list of Chinese manufacturer and "re branded" machines like Chandler and so forth... Furthermore - you often have different local brands which often can´t be bought in other countries. Try to find Wimsew, Tysew or Techsew, Atlas (Alas Levy) or THOR in Germany - no way. They sell Chinese made sewing machines and put their won brand name on it. Yes, they may be based on other "big name" sewing machine models but sometimes they have different model ID´s so you only can try to ID them by the casting. And you can only guess if they have the same specs as the "big name" models they are based on (they often do but you never know). Back to subclasses: And even when you cover the subclasses you still do not know if the machines are still setup the way they left the factory or if they (again and again) have been modified by one of the former owners (plural) or dealers (for new and used machines) certain companies who are specialized in sewing machine modifications. Along with subclasses goes the list of motors. Sewing machines can be setup with different motors for different purposes. What we (here) want is a slow motor and as often wanted with lots of torque. Best bet - servo motor + speed reducer but most used machines are not setup like this. Of course, when you buy a new or used machine from a dealer you can discus this but used machines are often sold by private seller who probbaly bought the machine with the same intension as you and have been disappointed because the machine was not set up as he expected / needed it. So they often come as they are and not as you would expect them / want to have them. You can ID certain machines by their data plate but you never know if they have been modified for a special application (probably even down graded) so when a newbie goes out and finds a Pfaff 335 and figured yeah - LW.net has this list and a Pfaff 335 is what I need - specs (seem) to match my needs. Bought it took it home and figure things are not as expected because the machine has been modified - for what ever reason. Another Sample - the vintage Singer 45K came in countless subclasses and has been produced from the early 1900 up to the 1970´s or 80´s I guess and and on top they even can come as SV (special variant) where we tried to figure out what SV means (almost no records available) - I think we agreed that SV could (could !) be either an off the shelf machine with just additional accessories or a forerunner of a later standard machine or a machine which has been modified to certain customer needs. SV models not only came with the 45K class - a lot of Singer models came as SV machines and there are very very few records what in particular SV technically means. On top - 45k´s even came as darning machines which is not suitable for sewing at all (or you have to modify them to make em sew - you see modification again) Then regarding needle and thread size - there are a lot of different opinions & experiences - sample - some say you can use Singer 29K only for 69 or 96 thread - some have experienced you can even use 207 thread, some say Singer 31k only can use #96 thread but I have used 138 in top and bottom... and this will be the same for ALL other sewing machines too. Even when you buy new machines you can find different specs / recommendations in terms of max. needle size and thread. This is just endless... My 2 cents

I guess she means the bottom thread (because of bobbins) - or not?

men - what a pain - better buy Singer machines How many parts machines do you have meanwhile?