Constabulary

Keep in mind, the 29K33 is a very old machine and most of the wear parts are no longer available. Some parts are still available and some new parts can be modified to fit but its still an very old machine form approx the 1920´s I guess. Before you buy it look for a manual and test sew it. If the max. stitch length is approx 4mm its a quite good score for a machine of this age. if the stitches are longer - even better but when they are shorter you most likely have to invest in some new parts. The max. stitch length you can achieve is a good indicator for the technical condition / the grade of wear on this type of machines. Generally on patchers - yes, very handy machines for repair work and sewing in tight spaces or for sewing on patches but not a machine you can produce quality leather goods with.

LW JIMI posted an interesting link in another thread so I just discovered the model on which this Singer 16KSV11 is based on (I guess). Class 16 machines start here: https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTEX/2753/imagepages/image35.htm The "Standard Model" seems to be the Singer 16K37 (see page 44) which seem to have a vibrating presser foot and CB hook. So I guess the "SV difference" in case of the 16KSV11 is the heavy hand wheel the and long beak shuttle.

Mr. Singer 45K & Smithsonian Website Sewing Machine expert.... Once again! Thanks again for this link - I found some more information about my Sinegr 16KSV11 - at least a machine that is close as it seesm. I will add the info to my thread. Thank you! I have to scratch your back - or are we even now?

I have service manuals / mechanics instructions for the 205 but files are too big to attach here. Please send me your email address by PM and I´ll forward them to you.

Thank you I wish more members would post pictures of their vintage machines here.

A few month ago I applied one of the original Singer decals I discovered once. LW member EVO160K did this on his Singer 45K too and I tried this the first time. Turned out quite well. The glue (MICROSCLAE MI-8) remains do not look as bad as on the picture, the flash makes it look "not so nice" but in real life it looks better. I could scrape it off but I leave it as is.

Singer center feet have the screw from the backside and the Pfaff feet from the left. At least thats what I have experience so far. I´m pretty confident that the 2800 is using Pfaff feet. See picture (still frame from YT Video). However - no guarantee that el cheapo Pfaff feet from Ebay will fit. Chinese part tolerances may be slightly different so they may perfectly fit or not and you probably have to rework them a little bit.

Most common clutch motors run at either approx 1400 rpm or 2800 rpm. The 2800 rpm motors are rather useless IMO (with focus on leather worker or hobbyists). No one beside professional seamstress can really comfortably handle this speed. The 1400 can probably slowed down to a acceptable speed level with a speed reducer and you can sell them for maybe 20 - 50 bucks I´d say. But shipping them can be a pain because often people do not know how to pack up delicate heavy items properly (broken clutch lever or mounting base). But keep in mind if you sell them for 50 bucks and add the shipping thats about 1/2 the price of a modern servo and you (as a buyer) still have an old outdated energy consuming motor. Who really wants this nowadays? BTW - College Sewing in the UK kicks out their new 1425 rpm clutch motors for 28 GBP + tax. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1-2hp3pls-3ph-three-phase-low-speed-ho-hsing-clutch-motor.html That probably shows how the demand for clutch motors nowadays is. Of course - it always depends on your local market... If it was me I would most likely not buy a clutch motor for my personal use (meaning sewing) But maybe you or someone else can re-purpose them for other leather machines. Sometimes scrap yards buy old motors for the copper Conclusion: if it was me and the motors are 1400 rpm I would sell them for 20-30 bucks for pick up only other than that I´d take them to the scrap yard along with other scrap metal you probably have collected over the years (Some male folks have the tendency to collect metal parts for the "you never know" purpose - guess how I know )

Well done! Yes, it is synchronized. There is small stud on the underside of the binder bracket / swing base which goes into the oblong slot in the feed dog. Distance from the center of the pin to center of the pivot point hole on the right side is ~ 8.4 - 8.5 cm. Stud sticks out ~ 4mm and is ~ 4mm in diameter

Don´t know where you are livi9ng but College Sewing in the UK seems to have the bits. Their shop is sometimes tricky cause not all parts are listed in the category they should be listed in. I think these are the bits but check the parts numbers first: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224702-cylinder-cover-singer-108k.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224738-binder-swing-base-singer-108w.html If you are looking for other 108 parts look up the parts number or the machine class 108W or 108K it could well be thats the Pfaff 335 cover could fit Other than that this thread could be helpful for you to DIY one some LW members even have printed these caps

Thats indeed a no go - I did not know the casting is that low. This usually works w/o problems but of course there are too many machines out there to know all their specs.

not my cup of tea but I would have bough them too. There is a sewing machine museum in the Netherlands and the guy (afaik) has this type of machines too I think it is this guy here but I´m not sure: http://www.naaimachinemuseum.nl/ maybe worth checking with them

Thats the often trouble with vintage machines. But to be honest I was not aware of that Pfaff did such significant technical part changes. This once again confirms me to be on the right path with my "Singer craze" . Even for the freakin oldest machines (not all of course) you still can find some new parts or parts are even interchangeable between different machines from different ages. But I don´t want to bash Pfaff - excellent machines - no doubt but parts situations can be tricky as it seems. Hope you can finish your project soon. If you see something on Ebay Germany and seller will not ship international just let me know

Does it have a parts number? Just from the shape it could well be for the 132K but Singer 31 feed dogs look very similar but are of a smaller site.

You can adjust the needle bar to accommodate the 135x16 needles. Compare the needle length and raise the NB by the amount the longer needle is longer than the shorter on measured from right above the needle eye up to the end of shaft (not to the needle tip). But you probably have to fine tune thew NB a little bit. I have set most of my machines to 135x17 / 135x16 so I do not have to stock endless needles types and sizes and in worst case even mix them up . It's s a lot easier when all machines are using the same needle system. My 2 cents

I would not buy it if it has no shuttle hook. I guess it is a HENGSTENBERG made (or rebranded) patcher. Bobbins can be reproduced but shuttle hooks for this type of patcher are 90% obsolete. With some luck the modern CLAES shuttles fit but they cost new an arm and a leg and it´s not safe that they will fit at all. There were literally dozens of different patcher hooks back then. Just to give you an idea... See below list of "Elastic Shuttles" for patchers. Or sell this machine to LW member SHOEPATCHER - thats probably the best bet! EDIT: see 3rd picture for a Hengestenber factory plaque

reg. zipper - Renia Aqulim SG sounds like a good idea too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXzY13T1rqI

Most likely the parts come from different far east manufacturers and they may have slightly different specs / tolerances - you can have this with car parts too - some perfectly fit and some don´t even when the parts # is the same. Guess why Singer always had an add in their manuals Good old days - but these days are gone - just as Singer.

Went back to a plain foot - works better for my purposes. So here is a quick & dirty YT video just to show how well the old 1975 dated 250Watt Moretti motor in addition of a 1:3 Speed reducer performs - really love it! It´s just about the performance, not the seam quality

You most likely have an old outdated clutch motor. I would replace it with a new servo motor and add a speed reducer. Do a forum google search like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=servo+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 lots of different solutions in terms of speed reducers. Some DIY some out of the box from sewing machine dealers... lots of options.

Either Adler 30-10 (small hook, short needle) or 30-70 (large hook, long needle, higher foot lift than 30-10) The Class 30 is a patcher meant mainly for repair works. I would not buy a patcher machines as primary leather sewing machine. Its useful for many repair works but I would not recommend it for producing leather goods and sewing long seams.

If you have a #10 or #20 subclass machine- yes. If you have #30 subclass machine - no. The #30 needs System 88 needles (longer)

Consew 225 or seiko stw-8... or so I guess. No Singer or Juki I think. Look t at the tension unit and the hook if you can see any makers stamps

Are you sure the machine is correctly threaded (top & bottom) and set the tension correctly? You probably need a larger size needle - note this thread / needle chart. What needle & thread size are you using? https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Needles can be found here: http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Claes-Model-10-20-Needles-10-per-pack_p_352.html when looking at other sources make sure you do not buy DCx1, 81x1 or 81x5 needles, that's a complete different needle for overclock machines and the like. Please post some pictures of the threaded machine

A few pictures would be nice but check this thread: If it looks like yours maybe you can get a manual of the THOR GB6-180-2: http://www.sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/en/leather-upholstery-machines/thor-gb6-180-2-cylinder-arm-extra-heavy-duty-top-and-bottom-feed-walking-foot-sewing-machine-detail EDIT: Brain fart: when I look close to it it kinda appears to be (roughly) a modernized version of the Singer 133K8 (seems feet are the same - or not?) but with different hook and stitch length mechanism... As I said - roughly... Machine has no needle feed I guess... Or an updated cylinder version of the Mitsubishi DW-253... kinda