Constabulary

Your machine is not set up for attaching binders. I`m not sure if 1341 and 341 is the same machine (I think so but do not know for sure). When you google 341 binder you will find a binder bracket for this machine quickly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143221072022 So thats the basic bracket, this thingy enables you to attach "simple" binders to a 341 (!!!) but I do not know if they work with your machine since yours is a 1341 as you say. If you want a OEM JUKI 1341 synchronized binder setup you can buy complete sets. This thread here may be helpful for you.

EFKA for sure has something to control these features but expect that it cots way way (way) more than the sewing machine it self. HOHSING also has higher end motors that can control some features but to be honest I never looked this up. https://www.efka.net/en/ http://www.hohsing.com/index.php/en/ I would guess you have to spend approx 1K or so. CS in the UK has EFKA servos: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/ab321-dc1550-efka-servo-motor.html

135x17 is a needle for cloth / woven materials and 135x16 is a needle for leather and similar material with a cutting tip There are a lot of different leather tips depending on how you want your seams to look like.

You are buying a sewing machine for your business and / or to sew protective masks - no better reason!

Gregg from Keystone Sewing once posted this sheets - looks like yours is 1953/54 made.

You are welcome I do not know this subclass but I would guess it takes the same feet as the 7-33 but better check with a dealer f.i. those who have adverts on top of this page (if you don´t use an ad blocker) Cowboy Bob from Toledo Sewing Machines and Gregg from Keystone Sewing Machines already replied here - I would check with them.

heard of that - crazy people

dikman - the 335 I have seen have 5mm stitch length - not too bad I´d say. And they are actually compound feed or to be more precise unison feed / triple feed (top, drop & needle feed). The only difference is that the feed dog is not oscillating instead it just goes back and forth but from what I have experienced & read it does not make a big difference when a feed dog is not oscillating on a triple feed machine. But experiences can be different of course.

if it was me I would take off the fly wheel (or hand knob?) and measure the shaft. Parts diagrams usually do not show these measures.

Adler 48 are funny little machines but the bobbins are really small (somewhere between Singer 29K small and Pfaff 335 old style). They share the same hook with the Singer 17. I can send you and english manual for the 48 and a German language sales brochure showing different subclasses of the 48 but don´t ask for a translation. Send me your email address by PM if you are interested. I had a 48 class machine but not the 48-4. AFAIK the 48-4 foot is a jump foot and is not driven just as on Singer 133K8 and Singer 31K19 and the like.

like this - but maybe the 7-55 is different.

can´t speak for the 7-55 but on my previous 7-10 there was kind of a bell crank lever with cam on the back side which controlled the foot lift. let me see if I still have pictures...

taking too much apart can sometimes cause issues. When I restored my 29K71 I did not separate the castings and left the top shaft installed. No issues.

I have checked - I have these two but they are different... sorry

As Jimi said - to me it also looks like the top tension unit is missing. I only can see the thread loop but not the tension unit.

few more...

Thanks a lot folks Jimi, the machines are not for sale but I indeed ha have to "rethink" the space for my machines maybe I can cut my bed in half or I can put one in the bathroom - who needs a shower when you have a rain barrel or lawn sprinklers @ scoutmom I cut out 5" in the middle of the 2 bars, drilled some 2" deep hole in either half (3x 8mm on the rear bar and a few more 6mm holes on the bottom bar) filled the holes on either side with JB Weld and insert 6mm thread rods (rear) and 4 / 5mm dowel pins (bottom). Why dowel pins and thread rods - well I just used what I had - no special reason. Make sure the holes in either half line up as good as possible but since the holes ware wider than the diameter of the rods / pins you still can adjust them a bit. Join the 2 halfs, line them up with a water level or what ever you have and clamp them to a table, let JB cure for a day - done... Its for sure not as strong as the old cast iron but it works.

I took sooooo many pictures while puzzling together this setup but most pics turned out to dark. Tried to brighten them but they were just too dark. So here are just a few of the done setup. Now this is my setup for the 51wSV2 post bed machine I have restored and I also want to use my 107w1 and 143w in this table. Wanted to have a smaller foot print stand with folding extension. So I cut down the center bars by 5" and glued them together with JB Weld and some thread rods and dowel pins (can post pictures if someone is interested). The new table top is beech wood oiled with boiled linseed oil - that makes a nice warm vintage look (looks much better in real life). I added a DIY 1:3 speed reducer and the motor is a 1975 made Italian OCEL / Moretti step motor (I think it is called step motor - we say "Anlassermotor" - its not a servo motor). Works very well so far but I´m not sure if I will keep this motor but I will test it for a while. Some pictures... When I was done and insert the 3 machines one by one I figured I had to make a small correction in the cut out... and then... the router guide moved Have to fill it with some wood filler

ooooouuuh.... I have a few old take up lever but I doubt I have one like this... will check...

R 1022565 - you looked too far up on the list this is a 7 digit number not 6 digit (w/o prefix) - go further down in the list

look again - on the 29K15 you probably missed a digit and the BC is rather an EC

this may help you to date your machines: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

you either have to take off the head and disassemble it or - in come cases - there sometimes is a hole on the underside of the bulge where the threaded post sits in and you can hammer it out from the underside

Bert, the inner round part rotates. I think I have one from a 29K33 - not sure if it is the same part. Looks like your part has # 8570 stamped on - or not? Below pic from a 29K1 - 29K33 parts list parts # here is 8567 and thats the part I have. I´ll post a pictures later...

okay - I have two screws but they are not the 207 I think but both fit in place. One is a bit too long but that one has a wider screw head like the 207. sooooo - dja want em? Will check another box tomorrow maybe I find something closer...