Constabulary

Pfaff 145 / 545 / 1245 binding bracket work for the 345 as well - guess how I know But you also need the feed dog, throat plate and matching foot set. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Binder-Bracket-Walking-Foot-Needle-Plate-Feeder-For-Pfaff-1245-Binding-Sewing-/293054013906

5K for a bag? NUTS! when the binding stretches and stitches become shorter you most likely have too much friction between binding material and binder meaning binding material is too thick I would say. I had this with some vintage vinyl binding material which I wanted to use in a double fold binder - did not work though martial is very thin. I dropped the project cause it´s not worth investing in a custom binder for s single project. You can try to increase the foot pressure of the outer foot, that may help but I think binding material is too thick for the binder - but hard to tell from the distance.

I´m not sure what your intension is - do you want to sell them to overseas customers - you are talking about 20 machine heads...? Or start a sewing business? If you want to sell them keep in mind that shipping + proper packaging + import tax + custom fees (depending on country) will probably make the these machines rather unattractive for an overseas customer. If you sell the head for $200 the customer may end up at $350 - $400 and that is not really a goo deal considering the shipping risk and the fact that these are old machines in unknown condition.

Don´t know how this buckle in real life looks but maybe an option: https://shop.bucklesinternational.com/catalog/BUCKLES/WEB_STRAP/SPRING_BUCKLE/105;jsessionid=0A6BF0428EC276EE8E98146447631257 Or maybe try Ohio Travel Bag

2nd what Gunnarsson said. If you run a "sewing business" with lots of output some electronic or computerized feature are probably nice and time (money) saving and machines are often written off after 5 years. If you have a small business or you are a hobbyist keep the things simple. Simple things are living longer most of the time and cause less trouble - often you can fix the simple things by your self and the more complicated the things (sewing machines) are the more you have to "outsource" the service and repairs. KISS - keep it stupid simple!

it came with a instruction sheet and technical drawing looks like it has 8 KN at 5 Bar ex factory - but I´m sure you can run it with more than 5 bar. I don´t think will blow off at 6 or 8 bar. So the idea more or less is a pneumatic clicker and maybe a riveter for larger copper rivets. The arbor press idea from the video is least and interesting idea if you have space issues or are on a budget but having multiple tools makes life easier IMO. You do not need an accu drill when you have an electric drill but life is easier if you have both. Most people just want ONE sewing machine but life is easier if you have several (depends on your work of course). And as a wise men said "It's Better To Have It And Not Need It, Than To Need It And Not Have It!

Vicky Pollard - is it you? No rather Whoppers. Mac´s are too dry IMO, you know?

Aaaall right... so my mouse is black and so it the keyboard

Old manuals are often more precise reg. oiling - maybe this 153w manual (that's what your 227 is based on) should gives you an idea. Singer 153w 1 54w101.pdf

Thread the machine leave the slide cover open, crank the machine by hand and watch the thread - you will notice what the bobbin case opener is for and what it mechanically does. Put a drip of oil between bobbin case and hook and maybe oil the whole machine EDIT: reg. oiling the 2628 - the oiling should pretty much the same as on your 227. Not sure what the manual says but there are a lot more spots you should oil regularly .

that's a different sound and sounds normal to me, the small lever on the front left is the bobbin case opener and it pulls back the bobbin case slightly to make room for the thread and the small tongue that goes in the notch of the throat plate is making a sound too when touching left and right side of the notch. the sound at high speed in the other video (sounds ringing - kind of) is because of the too small bobbin I´d say.

Bobbins should be standard Singer bobbins of ~ 22mm diameter and ~10.3mm height - they fit for a lot of machines. Parts # is 203470

reg. Video - seems you are using the a wrong size bobbin in this machine. I think that's where the "rattly ringing" sound comes from.

If you do not like the magnet solution and don´t want to drill the ram and you have welding options make a (few) squared "cup" you can fit on the ram and and that can accommodate certain tool. Thumb screws can hold the cups in place... Just an idea... EDIT: just noticed your own post - you already figured it... I think 1 or 2 years ago I bought a pneumatic press on ebay for less than the price of a pack of sewing needles but shipping was 65€ so overall pretty much a steal. But I yet haven't set it up yet - maybe I should get it on this year. Not even sure if I really need it but I could not resist for that price. It even came with a spare piston.

Probably and Adler 467. Could also be a Pfaff 487.

This machine seems to be not wide spread here. Looks like it is designed as high speed binding machine. Leather work usually is NOT high speed sewing. I think I would fill up the reservoir as stated in the manual. You probably have to remove the head from the reservoir to fill it up. However I´m not sure if the oil pump will distribute enough oil when sewing short seems at low speed. Usually the oil pumps need a certain sewing speed. If it was my machine I would not rely on the oil pump system (Manual also does not say where the oil goes to and if certain areas require manual oiling) I don´t know the technical details of the 2628. Not sure if and where it has oil holes but I would oil it manually.

Check LW Member UWE´s YT videos I think he had a timing video on the 111 model and similar... https://www.youtube.com/user/UweXY/videos

Seiko STW-8B I´d say.

Honestly - it´s for sure nice when you fully strip a vintage machine but the chances are high that you break or damage obsolete parts. So I rather leave the parts where they are and I wash out the dirt / grease / gunk either with hot washing soda solution or paint thinner or other solvents and then mask everything as good as possible and clean the "paint splatters" later.... and so forth.... 1st priority on vintage machines is not to damage parts. My 2 cents But good luck with this project I hope you can finish it!

True! Just to give an idea what pinion you find among the 29 / 29K series: From left to right: Pinions for approx 29-1 / 29K1 - 29K33 (there could be differences too but this is pretty much the size) Pinion for 29K51 - 29K56 Pinion for 29K58 - 29K73 (and higher I think) The 29K58 - 29K73 pinions are the ones you can buy new - the other pinons are no longer available new. Well you may find them but they are out of production for decades! Sometimes you find them used on Ebay but buying used pinions is not a good idea. However - I think (but I´m not sure) that the large pinions are approx the same they use in the Adler 30 class - they never have changed their pinions AFAIK but I´m not 100% sure. I haven´t had the chance to test then 1:1 coming from a working Adler 30 and Singer 29K gear box - maybe one day... I´m curios... Beside the pinion sizes, in the 29K series there are gear boxes with 3 pinions and 1 long drive rack and gear boxes with 2 pinons 1 short rack and 1 long drive rack... you have fixed gear boxes (29K1 - 29K33), drop out gear boxes (29K51 -29K56) and fully replaceable gear boxes (horns) 29K58 -29K73 and higher)... Looots of differences. Some 29K series gear box samples - the latest model is shown above so there are at least 4 different gear boxes

The pinions are totally different. 29K4 have a lot larger pinions and they are not interchangeable. The 29 / 29K series used at least 3 different type of pinions - I can post pictures later.

Once again - excellent read! Its great that you show all the details. Your gearbox pinions & racks really look good. Could well be that the machine has been rebuilt. The 29K70 pretty much is a 29K71 - If I see it correctly the 29K70 is more or less a 29K71 with a different thread lever adjuster and some 29K70 seem to come w/o the front crank setup. Not sure which 29K70 parts list you have but this one shows the bushing (see attachment - plate 7745). Parts List Singer 29K70.pdf

I meant replace

Yes, I would replace all the parts you mentioned + the gib on the stitch length adjuster (if it is not included in the $19.98). As Jimi said feed motion ring could be worn too but it´s hard to tell. If you decide to order the feed motion ring make sure the roller #1816 is included or order it separately!!! If it was my machine I would the pace the thread take up lever too just for optical reasons. The pin on the needle bar is tapered and goes out from back to front. Usually one or two "gentle" hammer strikes will drive it out but push your hand against the arm tip when you swing the hammer.

Tugadude If you mean me with offended - well I do not feel offended at all, everything is fine. I just gave my point of view and I can accept other points w/o driving nuts - of course!