Constabulary

Old manuals are often more precise reg. oiling - maybe this 153w manual (that's what your 227 is based on) should gives you an idea. Singer 153w 1 54w101.pdf

Thread the machine leave the slide cover open, crank the machine by hand and watch the thread - you will notice what the bobbin case opener is for and what it mechanically does. Put a drip of oil between bobbin case and hook and maybe oil the whole machine EDIT: reg. oiling the 2628 - the oiling should pretty much the same as on your 227. Not sure what the manual says but there are a lot more spots you should oil regularly .

that's a different sound and sounds normal to me, the small lever on the front left is the bobbin case opener and it pulls back the bobbin case slightly to make room for the thread and the small tongue that goes in the notch of the throat plate is making a sound too when touching left and right side of the notch. the sound at high speed in the other video (sounds ringing - kind of) is because of the too small bobbin I´d say.

Bobbins should be standard Singer bobbins of ~ 22mm diameter and ~10.3mm height - they fit for a lot of machines. Parts # is 203470

reg. Video - seems you are using the a wrong size bobbin in this machine. I think that's where the "rattly ringing" sound comes from.

If you do not like the magnet solution and don´t want to drill the ram and you have welding options make a (few) squared "cup" you can fit on the ram and and that can accommodate certain tool. Thumb screws can hold the cups in place... Just an idea... EDIT: just noticed your own post - you already figured it... I think 1 or 2 years ago I bought a pneumatic press on ebay for less than the price of a pack of sewing needles but shipping was 65€ so overall pretty much a steal. But I yet haven't set it up yet - maybe I should get it on this year. Not even sure if I really need it but I could not resist for that price. It even came with a spare piston.

Probably and Adler 467. Could also be a Pfaff 487.

This machine seems to be not wide spread here. Looks like it is designed as high speed binding machine. Leather work usually is NOT high speed sewing. I think I would fill up the reservoir as stated in the manual. You probably have to remove the head from the reservoir to fill it up. However I´m not sure if the oil pump will distribute enough oil when sewing short seems at low speed. Usually the oil pumps need a certain sewing speed. If it was my machine I would not rely on the oil pump system (Manual also does not say where the oil goes to and if certain areas require manual oiling) I don´t know the technical details of the 2628. Not sure if and where it has oil holes but I would oil it manually.

Check LW Member UWE´s YT videos I think he had a timing video on the 111 model and similar... https://www.youtube.com/user/UweXY/videos

Seiko STW-8B I´d say.

Honestly - it´s for sure nice when you fully strip a vintage machine but the chances are high that you break or damage obsolete parts. So I rather leave the parts where they are and I wash out the dirt / grease / gunk either with hot washing soda solution or paint thinner or other solvents and then mask everything as good as possible and clean the "paint splatters" later.... and so forth.... 1st priority on vintage machines is not to damage parts. My 2 cents But good luck with this project I hope you can finish it!

True! Just to give an idea what pinion you find among the 29 / 29K series: From left to right: Pinions for approx 29-1 / 29K1 - 29K33 (there could be differences too but this is pretty much the size) Pinion for 29K51 - 29K56 Pinion for 29K58 - 29K73 (and higher I think) The 29K58 - 29K73 pinions are the ones you can buy new - the other pinons are no longer available new. Well you may find them but they are out of production for decades! Sometimes you find them used on Ebay but buying used pinions is not a good idea. However - I think (but I´m not sure) that the large pinions are approx the same they use in the Adler 30 class - they never have changed their pinions AFAIK but I´m not 100% sure. I haven´t had the chance to test then 1:1 coming from a working Adler 30 and Singer 29K gear box - maybe one day... I´m curios... Beside the pinion sizes, in the 29K series there are gear boxes with 3 pinions and 1 long drive rack and gear boxes with 2 pinons 1 short rack and 1 long drive rack... you have fixed gear boxes (29K1 - 29K33), drop out gear boxes (29K51 -29K56) and fully replaceable gear boxes (horns) 29K58 -29K73 and higher)... Looots of differences. Some 29K series gear box samples - the latest model is shown above so there are at least 4 different gear boxes

The pinions are totally different. 29K4 have a lot larger pinions and they are not interchangeable. The 29 / 29K series used at least 3 different type of pinions - I can post pictures later.

Once again - excellent read! Its great that you show all the details. Your gearbox pinions & racks really look good. Could well be that the machine has been rebuilt. The 29K70 pretty much is a 29K71 - If I see it correctly the 29K70 is more or less a 29K71 with a different thread lever adjuster and some 29K70 seem to come w/o the front crank setup. Not sure which 29K70 parts list you have but this one shows the bushing (see attachment - plate 7745). Parts List Singer 29K70.pdf

I meant replace

Yes, I would replace all the parts you mentioned + the gib on the stitch length adjuster (if it is not included in the $19.98). As Jimi said feed motion ring could be worn too but it´s hard to tell. If you decide to order the feed motion ring make sure the roller #1816 is included or order it separately!!! If it was my machine I would the pace the thread take up lever too just for optical reasons. The pin on the needle bar is tapered and goes out from back to front. Usually one or two "gentle" hammer strikes will drive it out but push your hand against the arm tip when you swing the hammer.

Tugadude If you mean me with offended - well I do not feel offended at all, everything is fine. I just gave my point of view and I can accept other points w/o driving nuts - of course!

looks good! Do we have to call 911 *kidding*

As I said - my point of view. "Made in USA" can mean "Made in America" too because the USA are part of the American Continent whereas "Made in America" is not the same as Made in the USA - because America are not just the USA. Thats how I understand this. So when talking about Made in the USA... When needles, thread and especially sewing machines (with other words main components of the fabrication process) come from foreign countries like Japan, Korea, China or Germany - is the product still "Made in the USA" to the FTC standards?

It may be your point of view or maybe a common opinion but geographical it is not the way you think. That is at least my point of view. Made in Europe is not the same as Made in the European Union! I think no one would question that so why should Made in America be considered to be the same as Made in the USA? I know we (EU folks) often say "the Americans" and mean the people of the United States of America. And I`m sure in the USA you say "the Europeans" and mean the people of the European Union. That is because it is "a common phrase" which has ben kind of naturalized over the years or decades but is geographical incorrect. America is more than just the USA and Europe is more than just the European Union. 40 years ago Germany was not just West Germany, the GDR (East Germany) also was a part of the post war German country - even though there were 2 independent states the BRD (FRG) and the DDR (GDR) but both were German countries and part of Germany. Canada is also an (North) American state but obviously not part of the USA. Mexico is also an American state and belongs to North America - just as Canada. However - I get what you mean - Trump for sure wanted to make the "USA" great again and not Mexico But when someone wants to make a clear statement that certain (or his own) products are made in the USA he would / should label them as "Made in the USA" otherwise it is not really obvious - from my point of view. When you look on labels of USA made garments I´m sure they state "Made in the USA" and not Made in America. So why should it be different in other trades? Agree

I believe that You need just as much foot pressure that the friction of the needle does not lift the leather when the needle bar is rising - lower it as far as possible.

This is the best manual you can find for 29K58 to 29K73 machines. Machines from 29K58 up to 29K73 are very similar. https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=149218

https://www.strapworks.com/Spring_Buckle_p/sb.htm

"Made in the USA", "Made in North America" and "Made in America" is not the same. America does not necessarily mean the USA. Mexico is a part of North America too. Made in America also "could" mean Made in South America. I would not consider this as wrong when someone says: "This product is made in America" when it comes from South America. I know "usually" one would expect that made in America means made in USA but.. well... think about it. Sometimes you have to read between the lines.

Teeth on foot really looks worn, I would replace the foot or try to sharpen them with a diamond file. I would also reduce the foot pressure, maybe it works better with less foot pressure. Looks like you are sewing 1 layer of leather so the rough / flesh side of the leather may cause friction too. So in combination with the high foot pressure and worn teeth this could cause feeding problems I think. Just my thoughts... In the video have you set the foot lift to H = High? You can increase the foot lift when you adjust the "Lifting Lever Shaft Lever". I have done this on my 29K71 too. To give you an idea read this. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88903-restoring-oem-stitch-length-on-singer-29k70/?do=findComment&comment=608122 Warning - if you adjust the lever make sure the machine is not binding up, if it binds up to not crank it over and set back the lever until it is no longer binding. The top thread also has to go around this small pots