Constabulary

Thousand of miles? Where are you located? I thought it was obvious as it is on the left side of the shaft but yes you have to remove it. Yes, it has a tapered pin too.

shaft goes out to the right & there is a cam inside the machine you have to remove the tapered pin which fixes the cam on the shaft then try to hammer out the shaft from left to right. But can could be stuck / gummed / rusted in place and putting the cam back on is not easy. The parts # of the shaft should be stamped on the shaft you may find it when you have removed it Finding parts for the 29-4 will be a challenge most likely. If it was my machine I would not invest money it it, I´d strip the parts and sell them and look for a better condition & later model 29K machine. Looks like the machine is pretty much beaten up... broken ring, bent shaft, odd pin on the needle bar.... wondering what other issues it has. EDIT: if you really want to restore this machine and need parts check with pilgrim shoe machines - afaik they can make obsolete parts http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/ these folks also sell (I guess used) 29-4 parts: http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html Or better sell them your machine or the striped parts.

Good buy! Machine seems to be in very good condition. The 29K58 is almost identical to the later Model 29K71 so almost all spare parts for the 29K71 fit on the 29K58 as well. There are just a few minor technical differences. LW member snakeoil is currently restoring his 29K70 which is very similar so if you want to do some revisions on your machine follow his thread:

The narrowest arm tip I know of has the Dürkopp 18 patcher but they are out of production for decades and the machine and spare parts are hard to find - especially in the US.

You are officially bitten by the sewing machine bug now. There is no cure but it can become even worse. Expect that you will buy another machine in near future

Question is what do you want to sew with it? The Army used these machine for sewing parachute harness and things like that. They are great for sewing heavy webbing materials of maybe heavy tent materials. I once owned of of these beasts (different subclass) and for me it was way to large / to heavy. Its was a cool machines and big machines are always tempting but if they do not suit your needs better don´t buy them.

Have you bought it new from a dealer? If yes, I´m sure he has thread and needles too and may answer all technical questions. Most of your questions I would have asked the dealer before making the purchase. If you bought is used no one knows what accessories the machine comes with your machine or if the feet are smooth or not.

looks like a cut down "standard" presser foot 97659 for plain cloth / canvas sewing. They come with some 45K machines as well. If it matters the 132K drop feed machines (not jump foot) can use the Singer 45K feet too.

oh - nice a 45K machine with centennial badge! 45K´s already have a fairly large an heavy flywheel, I would mount a 50mm or 40mm pulley on the motor and see if it is sufficient for the work you want to do and if not I´d install a speed reducer. Speed reducers are great and give you a lot more speed control and even add torque!

The measures are nothing official, it's just how I set the lever. The click could also be the thread when slipping around the shuttle and passing the the ball tip spring of the shuttle carrier. But similar machines can sometimes produce different sounds.

I´m sot sure - do you mean a flip down roller guide mounted to the backside of the machine?

The 111w153 has no reverse sewing function - you are aware of that, right? So when machine is threaded and you are tuning the hand wheel backwards wit ill not produce a seam or will lock stitches.

The closer the binder is set to the needle the better it works on curved items. You probably have to grind down the tip on the inner foot a bit. The Pfaff 335 type binders are designed for this type of machine (I think they are called shell binders). The one you are using (and so do I) are meant for flat bed machines or "unsynchronized" cylinder arm machines. So it requires a bit of tinkering to set them up for synchronized binder machines. If I had found reasonably priced 335 type binder for the tape size and thickness I´m using I would have bought them but they were not available at that time and I´m too much a cheap charlie and don´t wanted to pay high prices for an custom binder so I went the "economic" way and figured it is a good way (in this case). Of course my bracket does not look like factory made but the whole setup work great! I know I repeat this but when you order a 335 type / shell binder make sure it is designed for the tape thickness you want to use!!! Sample: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/at18c-20mm-x-5mm-x-1-5mm-shell-binder.html 20x5x1.5 means: 20mm tape 5mm mouth width 1.5mm thick tape

it´s just the photo. They are equal except the numbers.

Maybe not too important but just for the records. I finally have found OEM Singer Bell Crank Levers (both #82167) with different dials. One with 5 SPI and one with what I would interpret as 4.5 millimeter (not SPI). Wondering why Singer did that...

Great read! If it helps, the diameter of a new cam roller (# 1816) is 10mm and so is the width of the cam track of the feed motion cam. I have replaced all rollers on my 29K71, except the large one that runs on the inside cam on the top shaft. Regarding Lifting Lever Shaft Lever - I once discussed the setting of this lever with Wiz because I have a fairly high foot lift on my machine (I´m able to sew 12mm thick material) and I took some measures of the Lifting Lever Shaft Lever in relation to the lifting lever (which rides on the roller of the feed motion cam). I took measures with the lifting adjuster in position H, M & L. This may or may not work on your machine but these are the measures that work for my machine w/o any binding. It may also depend on some other settings of parts. If you set the lever to low (for higher lift) the machine will bind!

when you can use feet from your 227 then they are Singer type as used on singer 111, 153, 211, Juki 562 &563, Consew 226 / 227, Seiko Cw-8 and many more machines. Thats good - they are easy to find and often relatively cheap.

Okay Yeah, shipping heavy sewing machines is critical when the shipper is not "experienced". Taking off the hand wheel on machines like this is mandatory. And sometimes people think there is the still a Postman carrying a package carefully from A to B so they do not care enough about packing it up properly. I had at least 2 sellers who claimed "it was well packed" but did not follow my instructions and did not even care about padding materials - even when I said I pay extra - some people are dead dumb and do not think twice (or even once).

Don´t tell me you went to from Denmark to Bulgaria for picking up a 335 parts machine. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Bulgarien/Kopenhagen,+Dänemark/@48.5993965,9.7962758,5z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m13!4m12!1m5!1m1!1s0x40a8fec1c85bf089:0xa01269bf4c10!2m2!1d25.48583!2d42.733883!1m5!1m1!1s0x4652533c5c803d23:0x4dd7edde69467b8!2m2!1d12.5683372!2d55.6760968 I guess you were on a road trip, right?

Pictures are quite small, dark and tilt... If I see it right the thread is fraying close to of what I think is a needle guide or to the needle eye. So I would check the needle guide hole (or inner foot??) for sharp edges, I´d also replace the needle and / or go up 1 size with the needle. Maybe you even have to enlarge the hole in the needle guide slightly. Really can't tell much from the picture - tried to enlarge and brighten it but... well... BTW - looks like the Outlaw is using Singer 111 type presser feet - is that correct?

Wow - now that's a machine I never have seen or even heard of. Looks like a Singer 17 with either jump foot or driven top feed and with oscillating barrel hook as used on the 45K (or maybe a bit smaller type). Very cool find! $120 OBO? I would buy them in a heart beat!

Your current foot set looks like the Singer type so this set here should work, it has a smooth bottom: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-111W-211W-WALKING-FOOT-SEWING-MACHINE-SMOOTH-BOTTOM-BINDER-FOOT-SET/401174055700 But I do not know your machine so check with the seller first I´d say. Or check with the dealer you bought the machine from.

ha - even better - great that it works. However I would try to bring the binder closer to the needle and install the correct foot set (the inner foot is too long) otherwise you may have issues with making turns / binding curved pieces. Check my pictures - my binder is very close to the needle - guess why your feed dog is so short and the throat plate has the cutout.

ouh.... okay, things I notice: the cup on the tension discs is either odd or upside down, the tension spring seems to be missing or is under the cup (if its the original cup then both parts are installed the wrong way) the nut on the tension unit is bubba-ed / wrong part, the tension disc are the wrong ones the originals need to be flat type (Singer parts # 8616). Because of the wrong & too high tension discs and the upside down installed cup (rim rests on tension discss as it seems) the "foobar revolving joint" comes up to high and this may cause your issues. Cannot explain in English how the parts play together but the main issue from my view are the tension unit and the wrong tension discs - no joke. I´d recommend comparing pictures of other machines (29K60, 62, 70, 71, 72, 73) and check this manual and parts list https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=149218 It has a well detailed parts list and show how the parts should be assembled.

I of course cannot test this on all above mentioned (and unmentioned) machines - I just wanted to give an idea of how it "could work". As a sample - this is a 107W1 - this machine has a closed foot pressure screw and you have to shorten the presser foot bar and adjust the foot bar bushing. Conclusion - if you don´t like / dare tinkering on your machine - "Don´t do this at home" ! I guess you know what I mean....