Constabulary

looks good! Do we have to call 911 *kidding*

As I said - my point of view. "Made in USA" can mean "Made in America" too because the USA are part of the American Continent whereas "Made in America" is not the same as Made in the USA - because America are not just the USA. Thats how I understand this. So when talking about Made in the USA... When needles, thread and especially sewing machines (with other words main components of the fabrication process) come from foreign countries like Japan, Korea, China or Germany - is the product still "Made in the USA" to the FTC standards?

It may be your point of view or maybe a common opinion but geographical it is not the way you think. That is at least my point of view. Made in Europe is not the same as Made in the European Union! I think no one would question that so why should Made in America be considered to be the same as Made in the USA? I know we (EU folks) often say "the Americans" and mean the people of the United States of America. And I`m sure in the USA you say "the Europeans" and mean the people of the European Union. That is because it is "a common phrase" which has ben kind of naturalized over the years or decades but is geographical incorrect. America is more than just the USA and Europe is more than just the European Union. 40 years ago Germany was not just West Germany, the GDR (East Germany) also was a part of the post war German country - even though there were 2 independent states the BRD (FRG) and the DDR (GDR) but both were German countries and part of Germany. Canada is also an (North) American state but obviously not part of the USA. Mexico is also an American state and belongs to North America - just as Canada. However - I get what you mean - Trump for sure wanted to make the "USA" great again and not Mexico But when someone wants to make a clear statement that certain (or his own) products are made in the USA he would / should label them as "Made in the USA" otherwise it is not really obvious - from my point of view. When you look on labels of USA made garments I´m sure they state "Made in the USA" and not Made in America. So why should it be different in other trades? Agree

I believe that You need just as much foot pressure that the friction of the needle does not lift the leather when the needle bar is rising - lower it as far as possible.

This is the best manual you can find for 29K58 to 29K73 machines. Machines from 29K58 up to 29K73 are very similar. https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=149218

https://www.strapworks.com/Spring_Buckle_p/sb.htm

"Made in the USA", "Made in North America" and "Made in America" is not the same. America does not necessarily mean the USA. Mexico is a part of North America too. Made in America also "could" mean Made in South America. I would not consider this as wrong when someone says: "This product is made in America" when it comes from South America. I know "usually" one would expect that made in America means made in USA but.. well... think about it. Sometimes you have to read between the lines.

Teeth on foot really looks worn, I would replace the foot or try to sharpen them with a diamond file. I would also reduce the foot pressure, maybe it works better with less foot pressure. Looks like you are sewing 1 layer of leather so the rough / flesh side of the leather may cause friction too. So in combination with the high foot pressure and worn teeth this could cause feeding problems I think. Just my thoughts... In the video have you set the foot lift to H = High? You can increase the foot lift when you adjust the "Lifting Lever Shaft Lever". I have done this on my 29K71 too. To give you an idea read this. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88903-restoring-oem-stitch-length-on-singer-29k70/?do=findComment&comment=608122 Warning - if you adjust the lever make sure the machine is not binding up, if it binds up to not crank it over and set back the lever until it is no longer binding. The top thread also has to go around this small pots

Thousand of miles? Where are you located? I thought it was obvious as it is on the left side of the shaft but yes you have to remove it. Yes, it has a tapered pin too.

shaft goes out to the right & there is a cam inside the machine you have to remove the tapered pin which fixes the cam on the shaft then try to hammer out the shaft from left to right. But can could be stuck / gummed / rusted in place and putting the cam back on is not easy. The parts # of the shaft should be stamped on the shaft you may find it when you have removed it Finding parts for the 29-4 will be a challenge most likely. If it was my machine I would not invest money it it, I´d strip the parts and sell them and look for a better condition & later model 29K machine. Looks like the machine is pretty much beaten up... broken ring, bent shaft, odd pin on the needle bar.... wondering what other issues it has. EDIT: if you really want to restore this machine and need parts check with pilgrim shoe machines - afaik they can make obsolete parts http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/ these folks also sell (I guess used) 29-4 parts: http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html Or better sell them your machine or the striped parts.

Good buy! Machine seems to be in very good condition. The 29K58 is almost identical to the later Model 29K71 so almost all spare parts for the 29K71 fit on the 29K58 as well. There are just a few minor technical differences. LW member snakeoil is currently restoring his 29K70 which is very similar so if you want to do some revisions on your machine follow his thread:

The narrowest arm tip I know of has the Dürkopp 18 patcher but they are out of production for decades and the machine and spare parts are hard to find - especially in the US.

You are officially bitten by the sewing machine bug now. There is no cure but it can become even worse. Expect that you will buy another machine in near future

Question is what do you want to sew with it? The Army used these machine for sewing parachute harness and things like that. They are great for sewing heavy webbing materials of maybe heavy tent materials. I once owned of of these beasts (different subclass) and for me it was way to large / to heavy. Its was a cool machines and big machines are always tempting but if they do not suit your needs better don´t buy them.

Have you bought it new from a dealer? If yes, I´m sure he has thread and needles too and may answer all technical questions. Most of your questions I would have asked the dealer before making the purchase. If you bought is used no one knows what accessories the machine comes with your machine or if the feet are smooth or not.

looks like a cut down "standard" presser foot 97659 for plain cloth / canvas sewing. They come with some 45K machines as well. If it matters the 132K drop feed machines (not jump foot) can use the Singer 45K feet too.

oh - nice a 45K machine with centennial badge! 45K´s already have a fairly large an heavy flywheel, I would mount a 50mm or 40mm pulley on the motor and see if it is sufficient for the work you want to do and if not I´d install a speed reducer. Speed reducers are great and give you a lot more speed control and even add torque!

The measures are nothing official, it's just how I set the lever. The click could also be the thread when slipping around the shuttle and passing the the ball tip spring of the shuttle carrier. But similar machines can sometimes produce different sounds.

I´m sot sure - do you mean a flip down roller guide mounted to the backside of the machine?

The 111w153 has no reverse sewing function - you are aware of that, right? So when machine is threaded and you are tuning the hand wheel backwards wit ill not produce a seam or will lock stitches.

The closer the binder is set to the needle the better it works on curved items. You probably have to grind down the tip on the inner foot a bit. The Pfaff 335 type binders are designed for this type of machine (I think they are called shell binders). The one you are using (and so do I) are meant for flat bed machines or "unsynchronized" cylinder arm machines. So it requires a bit of tinkering to set them up for synchronized binder machines. If I had found reasonably priced 335 type binder for the tape size and thickness I´m using I would have bought them but they were not available at that time and I´m too much a cheap charlie and don´t wanted to pay high prices for an custom binder so I went the "economic" way and figured it is a good way (in this case). Of course my bracket does not look like factory made but the whole setup work great! I know I repeat this but when you order a 335 type / shell binder make sure it is designed for the tape thickness you want to use!!! Sample: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/at18c-20mm-x-5mm-x-1-5mm-shell-binder.html 20x5x1.5 means: 20mm tape 5mm mouth width 1.5mm thick tape

it´s just the photo. They are equal except the numbers.

Maybe not too important but just for the records. I finally have found OEM Singer Bell Crank Levers (both #82167) with different dials. One with 5 SPI and one with what I would interpret as 4.5 millimeter (not SPI). Wondering why Singer did that...

Great read! If it helps, the diameter of a new cam roller (# 1816) is 10mm and so is the width of the cam track of the feed motion cam. I have replaced all rollers on my 29K71, except the large one that runs on the inside cam on the top shaft. Regarding Lifting Lever Shaft Lever - I once discussed the setting of this lever with Wiz because I have a fairly high foot lift on my machine (I´m able to sew 12mm thick material) and I took some measures of the Lifting Lever Shaft Lever in relation to the lifting lever (which rides on the roller of the feed motion cam). I took measures with the lifting adjuster in position H, M & L. This may or may not work on your machine but these are the measures that work for my machine w/o any binding. It may also depend on some other settings of parts. If you set the lever to low (for higher lift) the machine will bind!

when you can use feet from your 227 then they are Singer type as used on singer 111, 153, 211, Juki 562 &563, Consew 226 / 227, Seiko Cw-8 and many more machines. Thats good - they are easy to find and often relatively cheap.