Constabulary

I would make it mandatory to fill in the location during the registration process the way that registration cannot be complete w/o filling in the location. At least the country for intl. members and for the US members maybe the state as addition.

Yes - the bottom part. And this is the CLAES tension "setup" w/o a spring that applies tension to the pulley on the bottom part - if that is of any interest. The top tension has a small pulley between the discs. So no matter what kind of grove U or V the pulleys have (or what ever) the main thread tension usually is applied by the tension discs (with or without pulley) on the upper tension unit - in my opinion. Others may have different opinions but this is mine

Tell a Willys Jeep restorer / WWII military collector that you need an OD color and you get a 2 hrs lecture of how different OD can be - guess how I know There are so many shades of olive drab....

It basically does not matter HOW you apply tension to the thread (or should I say friction between thread and what ever...) but it matters THAT you apply tension and the amount of tension (top and bottom) depends on the kind and the thickness of material you want to sew and the type and thickens needle and thread. There are several different type of "tension devices" (meaning different systems) and their purpose always is to apply the necessary amount of tension to the thread that you need to sew your chosen material with the chosen thread am needle. The way they (the tension devices) do this (apply tension) is not really important. The point it that they to have apply a certain and constant amount of tension during the sewing process. You can achieve this by just tension discs with different strength springs or numbers of wraps around a post or a pulley or combinations of them (as on early 1900´s patchers or saddle maker / harness maker machines). There are even disc tensioners with a pulley between the tension discs (F.i. on different CLAES machines). The BUSMC #6 even has a totally different tensioner system. Sewing machine engineers have developed different tension systems over the decades - some have survived some not. Nowadays - because of simplicity and effectivity - you mainly have tension discs + springs in different strength (depending on your application). I run a 45K which has the same tension system as the Adler 4, 5, 104, 105 (and so forth) and many many similar more modern type machines of this class and I DO NOT wrap the thread 1 + 1/2 time around the pulley, I just apply tension with top tension discs. I have the "tension" on the lower unit just as low / high that the pulley can spin. The Singer 136K / 133K (and their modern clones) have a similar system (incl. upper tension unit with discs). But there is not really a pulley (with V or U grove) it rather it a plain roll (more or less) and a massive one sided tension disc. On the other side of this tension disc is the roller in combination with a massive disc that is spinning while the thread is running between it - kinda hard to explain ). Basically the same system abut technically a bit different. Pretty sure I somewhere have posted a pictures of a disassembled 133K / 132K lower tesnion unit) So again - it´s not important HOW tension is applied - import is THAT a certain amount of tension is applied and it does not not matter how this is achieved. EDIT Addition: The CLAES 213 / 214 is the same class machine (same hook, same needle, same feeding system for same applications and optically and technically quite identical...) as the Singer 45K or above mentioned Adler models and so forth. They are using all the same type of tensioner (top and bottom) with the difference that you cannot apply any tension to the lower tension unit on the CLAES machines but their lower "tension unit" has the pulley which is just held by a screw (no tension spring) and the top tension unit has a small pulley between the discs. You know what I mean? It´s not important HOW - important is THAT...

145, 545, 1245 - flat bed 345, 335 cylinder arm - all triple feed machines.

I´d agree keep em all if you have the space. I´m pretty sure your mom would be proud of you when she sees all the machines alive again! Set them up, make em all work and then you can decide. But at one point you probably will regret selling one or another machine. Other people trying to "scratch" together certain machines over a long period and you are in the fortunate position of already owning quite lot of machines - if you know wat I mean.

hm - you already bought the machine (even from a dealer) and you did that for a reason. So what recommendations or warnings are you expecting?

I´d open the face plate and check if the guide for the needle bar rocking frame is properly positioned and if the pivot pin and NB rocking frame are all the way to the right.

Pfaff models often share parts just as Singer and Adler. However - you never know so comparing the number is important. But I have no Pfaff parts list I could check - sorry! The lever I have linked was just something I have found while looking for other parts and it at least looks very close. I sometimes just check this sellers listing as he often has interesting parts. Paypal should not be an issue - just buy it and pay the currency conversion usually is automated in the payment process.

if you have hard carpet (don´t know the english word) and you can put the machines against a wall you can also use some kind ball casters that would save some height. Just a wild idea that came to my mind

Cowboy / Hightex has them too but they look sturdier than the other Chinese made ones on ebay: https://www.cowboysew.com/leather-sewing-machine-for-saddlery.htm (scroll down to the end)

Don´t know what parts diagram you have but this one is the best you can find - very clear and detailed. Download: Singer 29K71 29K72 29K73 Manual and Parts List

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Pfaff-141-Umlenkung-Kniehebel-8328/293287710957 But check with the seller first reg. parts number. Also check his other listings, he has a lot of used spare parts. Maybe worth buying some more parts.

I will set up my Singer 51w with a short table as well and will use a short flat bed machine (107w / 143w) in the same table - one day. So before you pull the trigger on this table make sure the cut out fits for your machine and the hinge points line up. IMO the small tray on the right is kinda space wasting on the left (if that matters) So maybe a DIY table top + a standard table that you cut down (center bars) could be an option too. Just my thoughts

Hope this brochure helps But you never know if a vintage machine has been modified once... Singer 111w Class Machine Brochure.PDF

Just wondering - is there no international help for fighting the fires in Australia? I know A is in the middle of the pacific but still... Maybe Japan or South Korea? For sure a challenge to bring in water bombers but come on.... really no one? At least I have not here of any international help. EDIT: Just figured that Canada sent 21 Firemen - not much intl. help though.

Singer 111 feet should work. They at least work the other way around I have some Durkopp feet for my Singer 111.

I only have an outside view and don´t know what kind of arrangement you have with the dealer but I somehow would be kinda pissed when I read about all the issues and lesser foot lift an d stuff - even at the lower / fair price you paid. Do you updated the dealer with the issues you have? Again - just my outside view...

I used M5 screws on my former Singer 111 but you may need an additional bracket for mounting the drop down guide. I have used KB09 from college sewing: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/sewing-guides/sewing-guide-brackets This was on my former 111G156 which is quite close to your 239 So before you drill holes in the machine body make sure the drop down guide or its bracket is not disturbing your foot lift lever or is disturbing you somehow different. On my current 111 I have no drop down guide as I figured I barely need it for my work or it was disturbing me. But that of corse depends on your work. EDIT: Another thread reg. drop down guides:

Really? Once again domestic sewing machine sciences?

ouh - sorry for that kind of machine I have no timing values... But when do a google search with "Timing Chinese Patcher site:leatherworker.net/forum" something may pop up. EDIT: This guy has some videos reg. the Chinese patcher - maybe helpful for you: https://www.youtube.com/user/BareHerbalBubbles/videos

What machine are you using? Most likely needle hook timing is off or needle bar is to high or too low.

The 30-1 is a patcher machine with top feed only (no needle feed) and it leaves marks of top side of the leather because the machine is feeding material with a sharp toothed presser foot. These patcher machines are not really production machines they are basically meant for repairing things like shoes, bag, pouches, sewing on patches on blankets and other things and so forth but they are not really meant for sewing gun holsters. Patchers usually just have a max. stitch length of 5mm (and often patcher do not reach this due to worn parts) and stitches become shorter the thicker the material gets. Actually some machines can handle 207 thread but usually they max out at 138 furthermore the 30-1 has an extremely tiny bobbin and it holds just a few meters of thread. Do a quick google search and you find a lot of topics on LW.net regarding the Adler 30-1 machines https://www.google.com/search?q=Adler+30-1+site%3Aleatherworker.net%2Fforum&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 If you still want a patcher machine better look for a 30-7 (higher foot lift and larger bobbin) or similar patcher with large bobbins.

If you can (financially) keep them both! f you have space problems alter one machine stand the way that you can switch the machine heads. That would safe you a lot of space.

I´m not sure what M60 really is - is it like TKT 60?