Constabulary

some do some don't. I have seen an OEM manual where its mentioned that the machine is sewn off in the factory with #11/3 metric thread which is equal to 207. Needle plate hole has to be wide enough and the thread hole in the hook as well to run 207. Some other fine tuning may be required. 138 is possible all day but 207... you never know... I would not expect it.

I have two JACK servos one came with a 13mm shaft one with a 15mm shaft. Back then someone milled a pulley for the 13mm shaft (did not find any 13mm bore pulleys back then). An easier task is using a tube with 15mm outer diameter and 1mm wall an make a sleeve for the shaft. I did that on a different project - works perfect. If my next JACK servo has a 13mm shaft I will use the sleeve workaround again. Just my 2 cents.

I have a mechanics instruction for the Class Adler 30 but file is too big to attach here. Send me you email address by PM and and I can forward it to you. Basically you have to remove the tapered pin which attaches the needle bar to the slide piece on the lever arm tip (hammer it out back to front - in best case 1 gentle but feisty hammer strike should do it), loosen the stop thumb screw on the front side of the head (if present if not go ahead) then remove the 4 screws which hold the head to the main casting. Now the head is free. Pull out the needle bar from the bottom side. Then remove 2 small screws you see on the round cap piece the needle bar goes through. When done you should be able to pull out the revolving inner part from the bottom or push out from the top.

Base model is the Singer 211U which came in a lot of different sub classes. Open the right slide plate and remove the bobbin - is approx 25mm (or larger) its a large bobbin if 22mm its a small (standard) bobbin. These machines usually sew up to 9mm some up to 12mm depending on how it was set up. Best bet is test if before you buy it.

I know what you mean - I´m a tinkerer too but certain things are just not worth to DIY. Don´t underestimate this cap. Its not just a cap it also has a tension spring which is held by 2 tiny (and I mean tiny) counter sunk screws. It´s a precise part. It never ever would be worth the time making one but if you like it why not go ahead. The 29K2 is a different story because lots of parts are obsolete. The shuttles BTW you can get from Ebay for bargain prices this would not be worth the time as well but again - your time. Good luck.

When you find a "complete" machine for a very cheap price then in comparison new spare parts will always appear to be expensive / overpriced. Thats normal. But you have sewing machine dealers in CA too. I´m sure there is one who can supply these caps. You do not find everything online. Not all brick and mortar dealers have a web shop for parts on their homepage. When you are into tinkering (like me) you probably can replace the entire hook with a new made "el cheapo" Chinese hook. I do not have an overview of all post bed machine and their hooks but I guess most of them are pretty much the same. Especially when the machine is based on a Singer model. I have replaced the hook on my approx 1920´s / 1930´s Singer 51w with a Durkopp hook (Durkopp & Singer share lot of parts) I had floating around (actually form a flat bed machine). The OEM hook had a cap like yours. The new hook is a drop in hook. But thats not everyone's cup of tea its probably trial and error. But here I agree with Wiz - bite the bullet and buy the cap - fire and forget... done.

Maybe check with Keystone Sewing, they have a bulk for 28 Class 78 machines for sale on their website so I guess they can sell some feet too. https://store.keysew.com/qty-of-12-mix-of-singer-78-3-consew-28-class

sorry - my bad... link was for a slide cover

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Post-Bett-Slide-Platte-221215-fur-Singer-51W-52W-136W-138W-Nahmaschine-/16378209174 this slide cover should work - it even fitted for my decades old Singer 51w looks like they remained all the same.

if it was my machine I would try a Seiko CW-8 / Consew 227 / Singer153w slide cover # 13024. Not sure if it fits but thats most likely least expensive alternative I guess. Maybe worth a try. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/13024-bed-slide-seiko-genuine.html https://www.teamworksales.com/store/p2048/13024-slide-cover.html

3/32" (2.4mm approx) is the distance between the 2 marks. The upper mark is when your needle bar is at bottom dead center and the lower mark is when you have risen the needle bar 3/32". So w/o the marks, bring your needle bar to BDC from there raise it 3/32" at this point the tip of the hook should be in the center of the needle 1/16" (1.6mm approx) above the needle eye. This video may help you

Keep in mind, the 29K33 is a very old machine and most of the wear parts are no longer available. Some parts are still available and some new parts can be modified to fit but its still an very old machine form approx the 1920´s I guess. Before you buy it look for a manual and test sew it. If the max. stitch length is approx 4mm its a quite good score for a machine of this age. if the stitches are longer - even better but when they are shorter you most likely have to invest in some new parts. The max. stitch length you can achieve is a good indicator for the technical condition / the grade of wear on this type of machines. Generally on patchers - yes, very handy machines for repair work and sewing in tight spaces or for sewing on patches but not a machine you can produce quality leather goods with.

LW JIMI posted an interesting link in another thread so I just discovered the model on which this Singer 16KSV11 is based on (I guess). Class 16 machines start here: https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTEX/2753/imagepages/image35.htm The "Standard Model" seems to be the Singer 16K37 (see page 44) which seem to have a vibrating presser foot and CB hook. So I guess the "SV difference" in case of the 16KSV11 is the heavy hand wheel the and long beak shuttle.

Mr. Singer 45K & Smithsonian Website Sewing Machine expert.... Once again! Thanks again for this link - I found some more information about my Sinegr 16KSV11 - at least a machine that is close as it seesm. I will add the info to my thread. Thank you! I have to scratch your back - or are we even now?

I have service manuals / mechanics instructions for the 205 but files are too big to attach here. Please send me your email address by PM and I´ll forward them to you.

Thank you I wish more members would post pictures of their vintage machines here.

A few month ago I applied one of the original Singer decals I discovered once. LW member EVO160K did this on his Singer 45K too and I tried this the first time. Turned out quite well. The glue (MICROSCLAE MI-8) remains do not look as bad as on the picture, the flash makes it look "not so nice" but in real life it looks better. I could scrape it off but I leave it as is.

Singer center feet have the screw from the backside and the Pfaff feet from the left. At least thats what I have experience so far. I´m pretty confident that the 2800 is using Pfaff feet. See picture (still frame from YT Video). However - no guarantee that el cheapo Pfaff feet from Ebay will fit. Chinese part tolerances may be slightly different so they may perfectly fit or not and you probably have to rework them a little bit.

Most common clutch motors run at either approx 1400 rpm or 2800 rpm. The 2800 rpm motors are rather useless IMO (with focus on leather worker or hobbyists). No one beside professional seamstress can really comfortably handle this speed. The 1400 can probably slowed down to a acceptable speed level with a speed reducer and you can sell them for maybe 20 - 50 bucks I´d say. But shipping them can be a pain because often people do not know how to pack up delicate heavy items properly (broken clutch lever or mounting base). But keep in mind if you sell them for 50 bucks and add the shipping thats about 1/2 the price of a modern servo and you (as a buyer) still have an old outdated energy consuming motor. Who really wants this nowadays? BTW - College Sewing in the UK kicks out their new 1425 rpm clutch motors for 28 GBP + tax. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1-2hp3pls-3ph-three-phase-low-speed-ho-hsing-clutch-motor.html That probably shows how the demand for clutch motors nowadays is. Of course - it always depends on your local market... If it was me I would most likely not buy a clutch motor for my personal use (meaning sewing) But maybe you or someone else can re-purpose them for other leather machines. Sometimes scrap yards buy old motors for the copper Conclusion: if it was me and the motors are 1400 rpm I would sell them for 20-30 bucks for pick up only other than that I´d take them to the scrap yard along with other scrap metal you probably have collected over the years (Some male folks have the tendency to collect metal parts for the "you never know" purpose - guess how I know )

Well done! Yes, it is synchronized. There is small stud on the underside of the binder bracket / swing base which goes into the oblong slot in the feed dog. Distance from the center of the pin to center of the pivot point hole on the right side is ~ 8.4 - 8.5 cm. Stud sticks out ~ 4mm and is ~ 4mm in diameter

Don´t know where you are livi9ng but College Sewing in the UK seems to have the bits. Their shop is sometimes tricky cause not all parts are listed in the category they should be listed in. I think these are the bits but check the parts numbers first: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224702-cylinder-cover-singer-108k.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224738-binder-swing-base-singer-108w.html If you are looking for other 108 parts look up the parts number or the machine class 108W or 108K it could well be thats the Pfaff 335 cover could fit Other than that this thread could be helpful for you to DIY one some LW members even have printed these caps

Thats indeed a no go - I did not know the casting is that low. This usually works w/o problems but of course there are too many machines out there to know all their specs.

not my cup of tea but I would have bough them too. There is a sewing machine museum in the Netherlands and the guy (afaik) has this type of machines too I think it is this guy here but I´m not sure: http://www.naaimachinemuseum.nl/ maybe worth checking with them

Thats the often trouble with vintage machines. But to be honest I was not aware of that Pfaff did such significant technical part changes. This once again confirms me to be on the right path with my "Singer craze" . Even for the freakin oldest machines (not all of course) you still can find some new parts or parts are even interchangeable between different machines from different ages. But I don´t want to bash Pfaff - excellent machines - no doubt but parts situations can be tricky as it seems. Hope you can finish your project soon. If you see something on Ebay Germany and seller will not ship international just let me know

Does it have a parts number? Just from the shape it could well be for the 132K but Singer 31 feed dogs look very similar but are of a smaller site.