Constabulary

isn´t repairing such a f´d up rag not more expensive than making a new one? Tell the horse when he rips more rags like this you will send him on vacation to a friendly sausage maker. More worn rags make the sausages even more expensive (sorry horse riders...)

I once had a Junker & Ruh SD28 but it did not suit my needs. I was able to sew unwaxed 207 Poly + linen thread w/o problems (top + bottom). Screw #32 is for adjusting the top thread tension Screw 25 is for the stitch length BTW - I can send you a German language manual with better pictures - just send me a PM

Its a Pfaff 1245 clone as it seems. Someone tried to sell a ferdco in 2011 for 1250 - maybe that gives you an idea. However it depends on the accessories and motor (sevo... clutch...) and so forth... https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/35305-ferdco-1245/

how about this one:

Not only in the UK. But aren't we all kinda guilty of that? And Corona will make it even worse. On the other hand you simply do (or did - mean before the www) not find certain things locally. No way for me to get my industrial Singer parts locally or even somewhere in Germany (sure, you can get some common parts but not really many) w/o making dozens of phone calls so my source is the www. Even for leather - I did not know a "full range supplier" for the leather hobby within a 50Km circuit. So before I drive longer distances and w/o knowing if I can get what I need I rather buy online from 2 or 3 different sources and often enough from the other side of the Channel (just recently copper rivets of a certain size). But to be honest I just recently found a supplier "quite local" (100km one way) and I never heard of him before / never popped up on searches. But for the moment I'm good with supplies. I hope I can visit him in a couple of weeks - really looking forward to that as he seems to have a lot of stuff I could use now and then. JFTC someone is interested: https://www.kappey.de/en/

The advantage of the 78 Class is that is has a very long stitch length of about 8.5mm whereas the 111 usually has about 5mm. Both machines do not have reverse if that matters. If you have the $ buy them both. If you do not have the space for 2 machines just keep 1 table you can use both machines on the same table (same size of cut out). The 78 has no feed dog, there is just a slot in the needle plate and that reduces the marks on the bottom side but that may not be too important in upholstery that's rather an advantage in leather work. But in instead the center feet often have heavier 2 teeth. I have a Class 78-3 on my shelf but haven't yet touched / restored it.... To me the78 looks like a very very simple and forgiving machine. It is technically reduced to a minimum IMO. But parts are hard to find nowadays. Nothing wrong wight antique machines, especially the 111 class series. I bought all my machines used and have even restored most of them. I like vintage machines A LOT! If I had too choose just one I´d take the 111.

I`m not sure what the problem is....

okay, did not know. So maybe some pictures of the current state of your machine may help. BTW - these 2 videos by thesergeant may help you a bit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdGD7D9QCUk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9D5FLrxpLY As I said the 107w is very similar

Have you read the manual? There are a lot or repair information in it! What other information do you need? I never have a seen a "repair manual" for this machine and I doubt there is one. JFTC you are looking for other information the 143w is very similar to the 107w aside from the stitch length adjustment...

I cannot ID is but it is not a Singer but class wise I´d day its about class of a Singer 16k, 31k or 96k - so rather a garment sewing machine or light upholstery sewing machine.

How about Germany: https://www.ds-leder.de/fiebings-oil-dye-946ml_fiebing-oil-dye-946ml-koenigsblau.html http://www.lederhaus.de/lederfarben/lederfarbe-fiebings-pro-oil-dye.php https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de/de/Farbe-Pflege-Kleber/Farbe-Zubehoer/Lederfarbe/Fiebing-s-Pro-Dye-Prof.-Oil-Dye.html Rickert is quite fast.

Looks like a set screw. I guess it is hardened. If I were you, I´d try to drill it out entirely with a carbide drill bit and cut a wider thread. Or try a diamond tip tile drill. But that's probably not everyone's cup of tea EDIT: just to give you an idea what a tile drill (or hole saw) can do:

not sure if it helps but there is a video showing a problem with the Pfaff 138 F & R stitch length. The stitch length levers are all the same on the Pffaf afaik, so maybe worth checking.

This may help you: Pfaff 345 Service Manual.pdf

ask for more pictures - should be no problem for the seller.

If it was my machine I´d adjust the needle bar height to accommodate the standard 135x17 needle. The longer the needle is the thicker material you can sew. Its just raising / adjusting the needle bar as as mentioned in the manual. Its a quite easy task. Just one screw you have to loosen.

My preferred solvent for "frozen" machines is paint thinner - not kidding. Or applying heat with a gas blow torch or electric heat gun.

I heard of such people - crazy folks

# 20 bobbins are approx 15.5mm x 8.5mm +/- # 30 bobbins are approx 17.5mm x 10mm +/- the #30 hooks have a small bar across the bobbin - see picture EDIT: Hope I haven't mixed up something...

I´m almost certain that is it not a 30. if it was a 30 the black gear box would look beefier. I guess it is a 20. Whats den diameter of the bobbins? Length of the needle is also a hint - only the 30 uses the system 88 needle, the 10 + 20 are using system 81 needles. System 88 is 55mm long in total System 81 is shorter.

I have seen this ID plate a few times already. This is a machine from the early 1900´s

Really? Two 2 second videos? Ask your self - is this sufficient for a technical diagnose from the distance? Even when I look at the videos twice... no way that I could tell a technical disorder from a 2 second video, 2nd video is even blurry. What does it mean? Skipping stitches? Have you checked the needle hook timing? Do you have a manual with timing values? Have you bought the machine from a dealer - then check with the dealer. You say you are "rather new" so better take it to a proper industrial sewing machine dealer instead of playing with the safety clutch.

looks like you are test sewing on 1 layer, I´d double the layer and try again.

I have carpal tunnel syndrome for almost 13 (+/-) years now - first I got cortisone shots in the wrists when it became toooo bad (at night) - that really worked well for me. Meanwhile I can live with it quite well (looong time no cort. shots). I feel when its getting worse and I quit hardworking for a few days and then its gone. Yet no surgery.

Yes, its mine - press and thingy. Its indeed an electrically heated hat shaper / spreader / stretcher from the 1930/1940´s