Constabulary

Agree - looks kinda cheap but the guy has more a laser affinity than leather affinity as it seems. I indeed would not pay a dime for this wallet as shown but some old sailors may like the picture This is a good example why patchers should not be considered as suitable (mass) production machines in the leather trade, I think.

The thread is about the laser cutting & engraving technology and not $6 Walmart wallets - I guess. My "Like it" was probably not obvious enough - I like the cutting engraving technology and though I'm not in the market for this but its interesting.

cool - like it - but my 1st though was: kinda poor stitching and he later on solved the riddle in the video - a patcher. The guy spent big $ on the laser thingy but then bought a... lets say "not so good" leather sewing machine. If I had a suggestion for him - buy a better sewing machine! But the idea really is nice!

Have you tried a new needle? Check the thread path for burrs and rough spots.

fill the bag with more tool / equipment I love the Hypercharger reminds me of the motorcycle I once owned. The leather it too soft so yeah I would add something to reinforce the side walls. Leather, wood or plastic - what ever makes it more rigid

its a needle feed + bottom feed machine - not a triple feed machine. If it is local go and test the machine.

is the hand wheel too tight? Try loosening the hand wheel set screws a bit and the screw on the top shaft end. Or is it probably when the machine is working against the foot pressure spring?

not riding boots but Lisa Sorrell is a custom cowboy boot maker and sells boot / shoe making supplies as well - maybe a good source for you: https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/

Video is a bit shaky and maybe sewing slower and the cam in fixed position would give us a better view. My guess - you have a modified center foot and it does not hold down the leather so the needles pulls up the leather when the needle is going up - change the center foot and try again. Top and bottom tension may be an issue too or the adjustment of the regulating spring (or all in combination )hard to tell w/o sitting in front of the machine. But my best bet is the modified center foot is not holding down the leather well enough - you need one which holds down the leather right side of the needle - if you know what I mean.

maybe buying machinery in Germany is an option f.i. from Frank Brunnet - he has Hightex / Cowboy machines: https://hightex-germany.de/ or from Sieck: www.sieck.de

You asked the same question a couple hrs ago and got some responses already

Most popular is one thing - the right machine for the job is another thing.

How about a used industrial post bed machine? Don´t know how your local market is or if you would consider shipping a machine from a dealer.... I even bought all my machines used but have to admit that I restored most of them by my self and I like tinkering. But that saved me a heap of $$$ (or €€€).

The Puritan is a heavy needle and awl machine - a totally different machine and very expensive. They are used for heavy work boot (like Red Wing) and is using extremely thick (often waxed) linen thread. Your appears to be a light weight / female fashion shoe. Check these videos - from min 4.28 onward you see how shoe uppers are sewn (here a 1 need needle machine as it seems) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XpKTG6_nls Here from min 2.27 onward https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILu_6QpF0EU This BTW is a video from a dealer showing a machine like the CS-810 (one needle - CS-820 is a double needle machine) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4jpqkAlyr4 This is a double needle post bed machine with shifted double needle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inC_vlZhdG8 Just to give you an idea what kind of machines are often used for sewing shoe uppers. I would recommend you check with a sewing machine dealer, tell him what you want to do and I´m sure he points you in the right direction.

When I look at the seams most likely a double needle post bed machine with shifted needles. Something like a GOLDEN WHEEL CS-820 or Techsew 830-2 or old machines like Singer 52w or s Singer 236 (don`t know the double needle sub classes) or something similar. But as I said, I´m not s shoe maker. I´m sure he does not - the 29K is also a patching / repair machine but a bit more advanced design but it is basically doing the same job.

I have an old needle chart but the 16x97 is not pictured but a few other Sys. 16 needles, most seem to be 39mm long one is 43mm long as it seems. So I would look for a common Sys. 16 needle and adjust the needle bar as Wiz said.

Most likely the Singer 16 needles range will work. Other ID´s are DBx1, 287 or 1738. Its a quite common needle for vintage machines.

There is no such list simply because there are tooooo many different machines out there and no one knows them all. I don´t know how many different model and sub classes of models Singer has made in the last 150 years. Then comes Adler, Pfaff, Durkopp, Durkopp-Adler, Consew, Brother, Seiko, Juki, Nakajima, Mitsubishi, Necchi, Union Special, ........ and since the 1990s (or so) dozens of different manufacturer from China with clones and own design machines... some brands even have died but their machines are sill in use / on the market. Just too many makes, models and sub classes to know / list them all.... If I was in central Oklahoma I would look for the closest industrial or leather sewing machine dealer and discuss your needs with them.

I´m not a boot or shoe maker but this one looks like vulcanized / directly molded sole. Do not expect that you can fabricate top notch shoes with a shoe patcher machine. The machines you have shown above a repair machines (resewing seams replacing straps and zippers and the like) and not fabrication machines. Making shoes often requires more than 1 sewing machine. Before you start looking for sewing machine better learn how boot / shoes are made and what materials (not just a rubber sole and some leather) and tools machines are required. Maybe visiting a shoe/ boot making class is a good idea or find something online like: https://icanmakeshoes.com/online-courses/ or similar.

hmmmm... not sure - is this a tactical question?

wondering why nowadays everything is "tactical"... tactical boots, tactical jackets, tactical holsters, tactical bags, tactical hats... tactical toilet paper (don´t believe it - google it ) tactical hankies... What tactics is someone following when he needs specific "tactical" things? Maybe a range bag is what you are looking for - you´ll find dozens of variants (some even tactical - if needed). Or look up MOLLE equipment, there something for everything in the MOLLE range. There are forums for people who sew their own "tactical" equipment for soft air, zombie hunting, survival / prepping or even for "real military" purposes. Maybe someone there can sew your idea.

looks like the bobbin case opener is not properly adjusted. It seems not to "open" / push back the bobbin case far enough (or not at all). Thats my guess form just looking at your video. Most likely you also have to move the hook saddle a bit to the right as well. EDIT: maybe a Mod can move this thread to Leather Sewing Machines.

If you need Zick Zack I think THE heavy fabric machine is the Durkopp Adler 266 or its Hightex / Cowboy clone. Its not a walking foot machine but thats not always necessary. Since Hightex is selling clones parts should not me an issue. https://www.cowboysew.com/Durkopp-Adler-266-heavy-duty-zigzag-sewing-machine.htm http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_class_266.pdf https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/266/TL_266.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZuNkq4SciM Or maybe the forerunner Adler 166 is an option if you can find one used.

Speed reducer is the common term here for the above and similar constructions. You get what you pay for I would not pay big $ for a high end servo (like EFKA) cause I just do not have the out put that would justify this investment. The "cheap servo" and speed reducer combo works very well for what I´m doing. I´m very pleased with what I have.

all motors start 0 RPM (of course) question is what is the next step. Most servos start working between 100 and 200 rpm - I guess 16 mean 160 rpm and 1 means 100 rpm I would add a speed reducer 1:3 speed reducer. I added SR´s to ALL my machines - its just gives you a much better speed control. A larger hand wheel / pulley on the machine is another option but to be honest I do not like that just for optical reasons but that's just me. DIY speed reducers are cheap you just need a 40 - 50mm pulley, a 120 - 150mm pulley, ~100 - 150mm long 15mm diameter shaft, 2 pillow block bearings, some scrap wood and some screws... Should be doable for approx 25 - 40 bucks (depends on your market and currency) . This is my DIY reducer I put on my 51w post bet set up.