Constabulary

The machine has just 1 major tension spring as it seems. I would shorten the spring by 1/2" or a bit more deepening on how light you need the foot pressure. EDIT: Haven´t noticed Pintodeluxe´s reply

Thant surprises me cause CS is selling OEM screws as it seems. You never know if one of the previous owners bubba`ed something on the machine. Used machines can be tricky sometimes.

they just cost a few bucks - sample: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/9400000013-992003376-needle-plate-screw-adler-genuine.html Most industrial sewing machine dealer should have them. And it would not surprise me if they have the same threading as singer 111 needle plate screws but I´m not 100% sure

WPG (WhatPriceGlory) is selling reproduction M-1911 leather puttees - maybe that helps... https://onlinemilitaria.net/products/3138-US-M1911-Leather-Puttees/?bc=no

That's (afaik) the loop spreader, you find this thingy on many (if not all) CB hook machines and some machines with oscillating barrel hooks (like Singer 45K flat bed). Is you cap looking like the one in the picture or has it narrower cot out? The 78 is a needle feed machine and when someone installed a drop feed cap f.i. form a 31K (for what ever reason) it will not work (very wild guess but who knows). I´m not sure if it works w/o but I think it´s there for a reason. Where does the needle hit this cap - front, back, left side? Does the needle hit the cap in a particular stitch length or permanently? Some pictures may be helpful.

So when the leather is stretching I´d use thinner binding tape (maybe you need a splitter or skiver) or find a binder that causes less friction or buy a custom made binder (I know prices hurt). But keep in mind that even custom made binders are usually made for just ONE specific operation. But you have to discuss that with the attachment makers. I think a small splitter for thinng the leather strips is probably the better idea (having future projects in mind) but thats up to you. There are many variants but these look nice and functional (random google finds) https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/portable-leather-skiver-machine https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Paring-Peeling-Machine-Edge-Cut-Skiving-Shovel-Leather-Splitter-Tool/124112859905

You often find detailed sub class descriptions in the Singer parts lists - hope this helps:

looks like the needle is not correctly insert and thread hoes around the needle and then trough the needle eye back to front... or not? Maybe I´m wrong but looks like that... Needle scarf has to face right and thread goes from left to right.

Binders really can be tricky but you know that already . Here is my thought - You have a right angle binder so the binding material is bent by 90° when running through the binder and that causes friction between the leather and the binder. Meaning the binding material is pulled forward by the needle and foot and the friction is stretching the binding material and after the stitching the binding materials "relieves" and causes what you see in your 4th picture. I´d make a longer strip of binding leather (I guess you make your own with a skiver) and pull it through the binder slowly (incl. the 90° bent) and see if it stretches / causes friction while pulling through. Just for testing Id try using a bit of sewing machine oil on the leather surface and see if it reduces the friction but I do not know if oil affects for your fished product... so just testing. Most economic thing I would try before ordering a custom made binder (f.i. from Atlanta Attachments) is either an inline binder or 45° degree binder. I think they will cause less friction but I do not know if they are suitable for your projects and your machine. Just a guess.

the chandler 67 is a relabeled Adler 67. You can download a manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461564/Adler-67.html#manual

I´m not sure but I think I somewhere read that the NP works up to a ratio of 1:1.5 or 1:2 but I´m really not sure. I ordered my 1st Servo with NP - figured its does not work with my SR so I took it off. I do not miss it >> what dikman said

Agree - looks kinda cheap but the guy has more a laser affinity than leather affinity as it seems. I indeed would not pay a dime for this wallet as shown but some old sailors may like the picture This is a good example why patchers should not be considered as suitable (mass) production machines in the leather trade, I think.

The thread is about the laser cutting & engraving technology and not $6 Walmart wallets - I guess. My "Like it" was probably not obvious enough - I like the cutting engraving technology and though I'm not in the market for this but its interesting.

cool - like it - but my 1st though was: kinda poor stitching and he later on solved the riddle in the video - a patcher. The guy spent big $ on the laser thingy but then bought a... lets say "not so good" leather sewing machine. If I had a suggestion for him - buy a better sewing machine! But the idea really is nice!

Have you tried a new needle? Check the thread path for burrs and rough spots.

fill the bag with more tool / equipment I love the Hypercharger reminds me of the motorcycle I once owned. The leather it too soft so yeah I would add something to reinforce the side walls. Leather, wood or plastic - what ever makes it more rigid

its a needle feed + bottom feed machine - not a triple feed machine. If it is local go and test the machine.

is the hand wheel too tight? Try loosening the hand wheel set screws a bit and the screw on the top shaft end. Or is it probably when the machine is working against the foot pressure spring?

not riding boots but Lisa Sorrell is a custom cowboy boot maker and sells boot / shoe making supplies as well - maybe a good source for you: https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/

Video is a bit shaky and maybe sewing slower and the cam in fixed position would give us a better view. My guess - you have a modified center foot and it does not hold down the leather so the needles pulls up the leather when the needle is going up - change the center foot and try again. Top and bottom tension may be an issue too or the adjustment of the regulating spring (or all in combination )hard to tell w/o sitting in front of the machine. But my best bet is the modified center foot is not holding down the leather well enough - you need one which holds down the leather right side of the needle - if you know what I mean.

maybe buying machinery in Germany is an option f.i. from Frank Brunnet - he has Hightex / Cowboy machines: https://hightex-germany.de/ or from Sieck: www.sieck.de

You asked the same question a couple hrs ago and got some responses already

Most popular is one thing - the right machine for the job is another thing.

How about a used industrial post bed machine? Don´t know how your local market is or if you would consider shipping a machine from a dealer.... I even bought all my machines used but have to admit that I restored most of them by my self and I like tinkering. But that saved me a heap of $$$ (or €€€).

The Puritan is a heavy needle and awl machine - a totally different machine and very expensive. They are used for heavy work boot (like Red Wing) and is using extremely thick (often waxed) linen thread. Your appears to be a light weight / female fashion shoe. Check these videos - from min 4.28 onward you see how shoe uppers are sewn (here a 1 need needle machine as it seems) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XpKTG6_nls Here from min 2.27 onward https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILu_6QpF0EU This BTW is a video from a dealer showing a machine like the CS-810 (one needle - CS-820 is a double needle machine) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4jpqkAlyr4 This is a double needle post bed machine with shifted double needle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inC_vlZhdG8 Just to give you an idea what kind of machines are often used for sewing shoe uppers. I would recommend you check with a sewing machine dealer, tell him what you want to do and I´m sure he points you in the right direction.