Constabulary

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?do=findComment&comment=552471I would look for a servo with separate accelerator unit so you can mount it where you need it. I did that on my Singer 45D91 stand too (not a Sutton stand). It usually is mounted on the motor bracket (see link) but is detachable so I put it where I needed it (see picture). https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/jk-563a-220v-750w-1hp-servo-motor.html Some more images of the stand:

I have seen poorer machines that turned out very nice and functional. The thread lever adjuster is missing a nut as it seems (see picture). If you remove the gear box you may find a date stamped on. My 29K71 also is an EY and if I recall correctly my gearbox had a 64 or 67 date on it. This was mine when I found it:

looks like her time and care is free soooo how about a gift? It´s of course up to you but if you want to value her work I would not charge anything. Just my thought.

These are the two feet I have. The two numbers are mentioned in the 29K1 - 29K33 manual as standard feet that come with the machine. Dunu what the difference to the later feet mentioned in the 29K71 - 29K73 series manual is.

Oh - I have an OEM Singer foot with #8666. I thought it is just the standard coarse foot. Not sure what the difference is compared with the standard coarse foot. But if you ask me it just look like the standard Adler 30 coarse foot. I will take some pictures tomorrow....

I noticed the number in the 29K manual but whats actually the difference? I mean technically. Will check what # my feet have - never did...

I would say when you are thinking about buying a machine you are "in the right mood" already. I started buying machines when I had ideas I wanted to accomplish and figured there is not other way than buying a sewing machine. Reminds me of how I started the "binding machine adventure" my 1st try was gluing and then stitching biding tape around edges - terrible result. Then followed by playing around with existing machines then all of a sudden I found a dedicated biding machine and I never want to go back . Little bit different story but a sewing machines really make things a lot easier.

Nothing is too heavy to ship, it´s just a question of proper packaging. Post your add here with some good pictures: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/

Donn´t you have a wire cutter?

depends on your market and the condition - you can find them for a lot less and even a lot more. I´m glad my29K71 did not come with a stand cause I do not like treadling at all.

thats for foot pressure too - never understood why they did that - Pfaff did that as well. Maybe for "fine tuning" EDIT: which one you mean? The screw on the top I guess The "collar" / thumb nut is for locking.

when the leather is to hard / stiff thread will not pull into the leather you have to make a groove before stitching. You find leather groover / creaser for less than 5 bucks on Ebay. Just bought one a couple of weeks ago. https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-In-1-Adjustable-Stitching-Groover-Crease-Edger-Leather-Craft-Tools-DIY-Set-Kit/362999943070 works surprisingly well for that money.

always post pictures.... Why more top tension when the thread is laying on top side? 110/120 sounds right for #92 thread. When the thread knot shows up on top side the needle hole is wide enough at least. When thread knot is visible on top the bottom tension is too low or top tension too high I´d say. Maybe dirt / lint has accumulated under the bobbin case tension spring and you do not get enough bottom tension because of that. Or reduce top tension...

nice restored patcher. Weak parts on the 29K5X are the shuttle driving gears. They are no longer available (smaller & finer teeth as on the 29K7x series and not interchangeable)

The machine has just 1 major tension spring as it seems. I would shorten the spring by 1/2" or a bit more deepening on how light you need the foot pressure. EDIT: Haven´t noticed Pintodeluxe´s reply

Thant surprises me cause CS is selling OEM screws as it seems. You never know if one of the previous owners bubba`ed something on the machine. Used machines can be tricky sometimes.

they just cost a few bucks - sample: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/9400000013-992003376-needle-plate-screw-adler-genuine.html Most industrial sewing machine dealer should have them. And it would not surprise me if they have the same threading as singer 111 needle plate screws but I´m not 100% sure

WPG (WhatPriceGlory) is selling reproduction M-1911 leather puttees - maybe that helps... https://onlinemilitaria.net/products/3138-US-M1911-Leather-Puttees/?bc=no

That's (afaik) the loop spreader, you find this thingy on many (if not all) CB hook machines and some machines with oscillating barrel hooks (like Singer 45K flat bed). Is you cap looking like the one in the picture or has it narrower cot out? The 78 is a needle feed machine and when someone installed a drop feed cap f.i. form a 31K (for what ever reason) it will not work (very wild guess but who knows). I´m not sure if it works w/o but I think it´s there for a reason. Where does the needle hit this cap - front, back, left side? Does the needle hit the cap in a particular stitch length or permanently? Some pictures may be helpful.

So when the leather is stretching I´d use thinner binding tape (maybe you need a splitter or skiver) or find a binder that causes less friction or buy a custom made binder (I know prices hurt). But keep in mind that even custom made binders are usually made for just ONE specific operation. But you have to discuss that with the attachment makers. I think a small splitter for thinng the leather strips is probably the better idea (having future projects in mind) but thats up to you. There are many variants but these look nice and functional (random google finds) https://www.leathercraftpattern.com/portable-leather-skiver-machine https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Paring-Peeling-Machine-Edge-Cut-Skiving-Shovel-Leather-Splitter-Tool/124112859905

You often find detailed sub class descriptions in the Singer parts lists - hope this helps:

looks like the needle is not correctly insert and thread hoes around the needle and then trough the needle eye back to front... or not? Maybe I´m wrong but looks like that... Needle scarf has to face right and thread goes from left to right.

Binders really can be tricky but you know that already . Here is my thought - You have a right angle binder so the binding material is bent by 90° when running through the binder and that causes friction between the leather and the binder. Meaning the binding material is pulled forward by the needle and foot and the friction is stretching the binding material and after the stitching the binding materials "relieves" and causes what you see in your 4th picture. I´d make a longer strip of binding leather (I guess you make your own with a skiver) and pull it through the binder slowly (incl. the 90° bent) and see if it stretches / causes friction while pulling through. Just for testing Id try using a bit of sewing machine oil on the leather surface and see if it reduces the friction but I do not know if oil affects for your fished product... so just testing. Most economic thing I would try before ordering a custom made binder (f.i. from Atlanta Attachments) is either an inline binder or 45° degree binder. I think they will cause less friction but I do not know if they are suitable for your projects and your machine. Just a guess.

the chandler 67 is a relabeled Adler 67. You can download a manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461564/Adler-67.html#manual

I´m not sure but I think I somewhere read that the NP works up to a ratio of 1:1.5 or 1:2 but I´m really not sure. I ordered my 1st Servo with NP - figured its does not work with my SR so I took it off. I do not miss it >> what dikman said