Constabulary

When I look at the seams most likely a double needle post bed machine with shifted needles. Something like a GOLDEN WHEEL CS-820 or Techsew 830-2 or old machines like Singer 52w or s Singer 236 (don`t know the double needle sub classes) or something similar. But as I said, I´m not s shoe maker. I´m sure he does not - the 29K is also a patching / repair machine but a bit more advanced design but it is basically doing the same job.

I have an old needle chart but the 16x97 is not pictured but a few other Sys. 16 needles, most seem to be 39mm long one is 43mm long as it seems. So I would look for a common Sys. 16 needle and adjust the needle bar as Wiz said.

Most likely the Singer 16 needles range will work. Other ID´s are DBx1, 287 or 1738. Its a quite common needle for vintage machines.

There is no such list simply because there are tooooo many different machines out there and no one knows them all. I don´t know how many different model and sub classes of models Singer has made in the last 150 years. Then comes Adler, Pfaff, Durkopp, Durkopp-Adler, Consew, Brother, Seiko, Juki, Nakajima, Mitsubishi, Necchi, Union Special, ........ and since the 1990s (or so) dozens of different manufacturer from China with clones and own design machines... some brands even have died but their machines are sill in use / on the market. Just too many makes, models and sub classes to know / list them all.... If I was in central Oklahoma I would look for the closest industrial or leather sewing machine dealer and discuss your needs with them.

I´m not a boot or shoe maker but this one looks like vulcanized / directly molded sole. Do not expect that you can fabricate top notch shoes with a shoe patcher machine. The machines you have shown above a repair machines (resewing seams replacing straps and zippers and the like) and not fabrication machines. Making shoes often requires more than 1 sewing machine. Before you start looking for sewing machine better learn how boot / shoes are made and what materials (not just a rubber sole and some leather) and tools machines are required. Maybe visiting a shoe/ boot making class is a good idea or find something online like: https://icanmakeshoes.com/online-courses/ or similar.

hmmmm... not sure - is this a tactical question?

wondering why nowadays everything is "tactical"... tactical boots, tactical jackets, tactical holsters, tactical bags, tactical hats... tactical toilet paper (don´t believe it - google it ) tactical hankies... What tactics is someone following when he needs specific "tactical" things? Maybe a range bag is what you are looking for - you´ll find dozens of variants (some even tactical - if needed). Or look up MOLLE equipment, there something for everything in the MOLLE range. There are forums for people who sew their own "tactical" equipment for soft air, zombie hunting, survival / prepping or even for "real military" purposes. Maybe someone there can sew your idea.

looks like the bobbin case opener is not properly adjusted. It seems not to "open" / push back the bobbin case far enough (or not at all). Thats my guess form just looking at your video. Most likely you also have to move the hook saddle a bit to the right as well. EDIT: maybe a Mod can move this thread to Leather Sewing Machines.

If you need Zick Zack I think THE heavy fabric machine is the Durkopp Adler 266 or its Hightex / Cowboy clone. Its not a walking foot machine but thats not always necessary. Since Hightex is selling clones parts should not me an issue. https://www.cowboysew.com/Durkopp-Adler-266-heavy-duty-zigzag-sewing-machine.htm http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Leaflets_Adler/Leaflets_Adler_class_266.pdf https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/266/TL_266.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZuNkq4SciM Or maybe the forerunner Adler 166 is an option if you can find one used.

Speed reducer is the common term here for the above and similar constructions. You get what you pay for I would not pay big $ for a high end servo (like EFKA) cause I just do not have the out put that would justify this investment. The "cheap servo" and speed reducer combo works very well for what I´m doing. I´m very pleased with what I have.

all motors start 0 RPM (of course) question is what is the next step. Most servos start working between 100 and 200 rpm - I guess 16 mean 160 rpm and 1 means 100 rpm I would add a speed reducer 1:3 speed reducer. I added SR´s to ALL my machines - its just gives you a much better speed control. A larger hand wheel / pulley on the machine is another option but to be honest I do not like that just for optical reasons but that's just me. DIY speed reducers are cheap you just need a 40 - 50mm pulley, a 120 - 150mm pulley, ~100 - 150mm long 15mm diameter shaft, 2 pillow block bearings, some scrap wood and some screws... Should be doable for approx 25 - 40 bucks (depends on your market and currency) . This is my DIY reducer I put on my 51w post bet set up.

I do not know the 42 class but I guess it is a beefed up Singer 16 (kind of) so it could be that the standard roller feet will work on this machine. If it has the larger diameter foot bar (like the 45K) then the standard roller feet will not work. Can you post some pictures and check the foot bar diameter.

the original link lead to a massive cast iron housing - no joke. Its now forwarded to a different add - note this at the end of the link when you click it: exAdID=1254798278

Please post pictures of your tension unit or better of your entire machine so we can see all the details.

29K´s usually work well with 138 thread. My short arm 29K71 can sew almost 12mm material (webbing io my case - leather is probably a different story) but that does not mean all 29K´s can do this. But to be honest the comfort zone for my machine zone is rather 5-8mm. I have pushed it to the max and I never sew this thickness but my machine it is able to if I have to. Running a machine at is limit will increase wear / shorten its life so I would not recommend this for a daily running machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kF1feAFwdQ&feature=youtu.be All 29K have the same feed mechanism, they all mark the leather more or less depending on leather type, foot pressure and type of presser foot (fine teeth, coarse teeth...)

Really - no information? On my end Google delivers some good hits. Quite on top of the search results you find links to LW.net https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/43014-singer-251-13-or-241-12-for-holster-leather/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/69237-double-needle-machine-uses-singer-112g139-300w-1/ Basically - the 251 is a garment / tailor sewing machine and the 112G139 is an upholstery walking foot double needle machine for up to ~ 3/8" material but we do not know if your machine has been altered or not...

good idea - picking up the machine in person is even better!

Are you using the hand lifter lever or foot pedal / knee lifter? Usually the knee lifter or the foot pedal lets you lift the foot higher. But certain parts can limit the foot lift as well but is hard to tell when not sitting in front of the machine. BTW I can lift the foot on my 111G156 a lot higher than 1/2". I played with part settings but I`m sorry I have no instructions, I did this long time ago.

I´m not sure if Consew ever produced their own machines. AFAIK they relabeled JUKI, Seiko and probably other makes bur never produced machines by their self in a "Consew Factory". JJN - as the seller if he can measure the diameter of the bobbins - 22mm is the small / standard bobbin.

Well - you talked to both dealers so what other input do you need or expect? If it was me I would most likely buy from the dealer who is closer to me.

hmmm - looks complete but I think the needle is bent

Just found them accidentally. Not mine (of course) but maybe worth for someone who is close to Wheeling, West Virginia https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-SINGER-shoe-patch-machines-3-29-4-and-1-29K72-For-restoration/193645498034

Tooooo new for me to have any knowledge. I don´t know the differences.but maybe the 1422 is close... Pfaff 1422.pdf

Seems the difference between 255 and 256 is the stitch length adjustment, the 256 seem to have the old Singer 111 / 211 stitch length thingy with push down button in the flat bead and then adjusting the stitch length by turning the hand wheel and the 255 has a dial knob. Don´t know about the stitch length of the 256 but on the hand wheel I see a 4 - so 4 SPI at least I think. Looks like a rock solid machine in great condition I´d even guess its made by SEIKO, Japan.

If you don´t trust the shipping co´s take the machine heads of the stand and transport them in your own car. If that's not an option I´d probably secure the machine heads with tie down straps as good as possible