Constabulary

well, usually people are asking for manuals and parts list when they have acquired a sewing machine for the 1st time. You never can have enough information,. Regarding parts - your machines shares a lot (but for sure not all) of parts and accessories with the Singer 211 model (including their clones). F.i. Presser feet, tension unit, bobbins, needle bar, foot bars.... maybe a lot more but these are the most important in daily use. Usually hand wheels on sewing machines are secured by 2 set screws and often one axial screw and the end of the shaft (looks like your is missing - thats why there is a threaded hole I think). So loosen or remove the 2 set screws (axial screw is missing already) on the hand wheel and then you generally can pull off the hand wheel / pulley. I´m not sure if your machine has some specialties (for what ever reason) but thats how it works on the sewing machines I came across so far.

And here is a Singer 211 service manual: Service Manual Singer 221G155_211G156.pdf

I guess the set screws which secure the hand wheel / pulley on the top shaft are loose. If you can remove the hand wheel check the shaft for a grove (usually 1 grove lengthwise). One of the set screw has to be tightened down in this drove. The other one is just for extra security and usually does not sit in a grove. Your machine I guess is a Mitsubishi DU-105 (or similar) clone which itself is a clone of the Singer 211 You can download a parts list here I have attached a basic operators guide for the Singer 211 here - hope it helps Singer 211 Operators Guide-Small.pdf EDIT: or maybe the not fully tightened screw has worn a axial grove in tot shaft. But you have to remove the pulley to figure.

Singer machines from the UK and US and elsewhere were spread worldwide before and after the war (or both wars). I even have found wartime manufactured machines from the UK in Germany but I guess they came here after the war. I think my oldest is the Singer 51w. Unfortunately I cannot look up the serial number. I assume they used left over W&W parts from the transition time when Singer took over W&W. But who knows for sure... https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86292-singer-51w-sv-2-post-bed-machine-restoration Before I got this one I had a Singer 34K from 1905 or 1910 which ran like a dream. But the 51w is a lot more convenient for me.

The roller foot shown above is good for sewing shoe uppers and making curved seams and the like. If you want to sew straight seams / general sewing work mainly then the foot you have may work fine. Maybe you can post some pictures of what you have. It´s easier to evaluate then.

Try lowering the foot lift on the cam on the rear side a little bit... just an idea... report back please. I think I have seen this binding on a friends 145 long time ago. We lowered the foot lift and binding was gone but I´m not sure if you have the same problem. I don´t think we have been investigating this issue any further so this is / was just a workaround back then.

sorry - was probably my fault... I put the wrong URL into the link I guess (copy paste error) Aven made it right

You have a Singer 111 - right? There are 2 thumb screws. I have set both to very low pressure and only when I feel the rising needle is lifting the material I increase the foot pressure. Lesser foot pressure means fewer foot marks on the leather. But the thicker the material the more friction you have between material and neelde and the more foot pressure you need - basically.

$400? I think the chairs in the background are more valuable. But patchers are more expensive on your side of the pond than on my side but I don´t think I would pay more than $100 max. and keep in mind the machine could be a loss. But decision is your. Beside the price - Patcher machines are relatively easy to restore when all parts are present the the pinions in the gear box are in good condition. The pinions are obsolete. New pinions from later 29K machines (29K51 / 29K71 series) do not fit - don´t even try it. 6 years ago in December I have restored a similar machine but yours even looks a bit worse I´d say. This was mine: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60554-29k1-pre-christmas-barn-find/ so yes, its possible but the condition of yours really is bad. I think I´d put the whole machine head in a big electrolysis tub for striping the paint and braking the parts loose (I guess they are rusted in place). Could be a good project for the boring Christmas / Pandemic time.

I put the machine outdoors in a rectangular 90 Liter mortar bucket and use one of these spray guns https://www.ebay.de/itm/133551313467 and different brushes with different solvents (often paint thinner) or sometime with just a washing soda solution.

I did not know that - I´m really sorry to hear that! Do you know more about the circumstances? Rest In Peace, Steve!

he is on FB too if that helps: https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Professional-Service/Steves-Industrial-Leather-Sewing-Machines-345144232177296/

Guess what I just figured. At least 2 parcel services (GLS & DPD) on my end no longer offer shipping services to the UK. May be different for business customers abut still...

The EU for sure needs reformations. No doubt. Question is what price is the UK (Govt.) willing you pay for this bit of more sovereignty? Meaning what does BREXIT mean for the British people and the British economy. Where do most imports (goods and raw material) to the UK come from and where do most exports from the UK go to? If I´m right more than 40% of UK exports go to the EU and more than 50% of imports come from the EU. So VAT & Import fees makes it more expansive for either side. But since the market in the EU market is a lot larger than the market in the UK the EU companies (not meaning Germany alone) may look for alternative trading partners inside the EU. And the UK may look for alternative goods & trading partners as well but the UK is an island so "alternative" goods from non EU countries have to be flown in or shipped by ferry & vessel or trucks have to cross EU countries and go through the tunnel and after BREXIT EU goods have to pass the customs. Trucks will stand on huge parking lots in Kent waiting for maybe several days or so (we do not know yet) until they have been cleared. Not sure how this will work for EU goods shipped by vessel but I´m sure containers will pile up as well. And all that for sure is a big disadvantage. Not sure if it worth paying that price. May sound like s "rather small price" but I think the Brexiteers have largely underestimated the impacts on trade, economy and jobs. But time will tell...

The 133K13 is a darning machine and not a sewing machine meaning it has no feed dog and most likely other components are lacking too. I guess the entire feed dog frame and feed drive mechanism is lacking on darning machines. To be honest if you don´t want to use it as a darning machine better take it apart, sell the parts an look for a better option. If you still want to give it a try I´d check with LW member SINGERMANIA - he is from QLD and is dealing with all sorts of vintage heavy leather machinery. But I have not seen him here for 1.5 years or so. My 2 cents.

May be helpful: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/get-your-eu-business-ready-from-1-january-2021 Wondering how it will will be in UK 1 year after Brexit. I don´t think it will be easier / become better. They had a lot of time but I doubt they (UK & EU) have enough time until Jan. 1 to figure out a proper deal. If Boris & Co. were a bit smarter (IMO) they should cancel BREXIT or at lest increase the transition time. They should swallow the frog and move on especially due to the pandemic. Sad story!

Or you try for find a complete new needle bar that can accept 2mm shank needles and then switch to a more common needle like 135x5 or 135x17 (or the like). Thats not impossible but you have to look for them.

Your attachment looks like a ruffler attachment. There are walking foot attachments for domestic machines like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Shank-SEWING-MACHINE-Even-Feed-Walking-Foot-with-Guide-Fits-MANY-MACHINES-/272381111093 But I do not know if they can be used on vintage Singer industrial machines and I don´t think this is a proper replacement for a dedicated "real" triple feed / walking foot machines or for a jump foot sewing machine (like Singer 44-9) Your machine most likely will sew some layers of garment type leather w/o a waling foot attachments but we haven´t seen your setup yet.

how many RPM makes the motor - 1400 or 2800 I guess. If 2800 thats super fast and I would not even try to modify the motor. I´d buy a servo motor and if you want it even more comfortable I´d add a speed reducer as well. Reg. stitches - I´d try an S-Point needle Check the attached file. It gives you an idea of seam appearances when using different needle points. Point_styles_for_leather_processing.pdf

if it was me and the Seiko states it is made in Japan I would buy the Seiko. Other than that - same machine I´d say. But I´d also consider the dealer reputation and probably driving distance.

if you can´t hold down the spring and tighten the set screws at once ask someone for a helping hand or DIY a tool - f.i. a tube with a cutout lengthwise. Length: measure from end of the flange sleeve the to shaft bushing on the right. Just an idea.

How thick are the 2 layers in total? The total material thickness makes a big difference especially when using thicker thread and larger needles. Its easier to balance the thread knot in thicker materials when using thicker thread and larger needles. If not pleased with the thread knots visibility try a thinner thread and smaller size needles. Or when the bottom seem is not visible on the your product lower the top tension or increase the bottom tension a bit and the knot will move a bit to the bottom side. Or use a 1 size thinner bottom thread.

I´d almost say the problem sits in front of the machine *kidding* The grove for the plunger looks not worn and thew plunger looks long enough. So I only can guess that you don´t push it down deep enough or do not hold it down tight enough or the cam is badly gummed with old oil but then the plunger should still engage. Try this - when you push the plunger and SLOWLY rotate the hand wheel and when you come to the point where the plunger should engage and you feel it goes over the grove (you feel it and hear it) slowly turn back the hand wheel and jiggle it back and forth a bit until the plunger engages. If you cannot hold down the plunger in the deep position put a screw nut (or the like) between finger and push it in deeper. I have two machines with this stitch length adjuster (111G, 212G) and on the 212 it kinda feels more "fiddly" (thought is the same system) and on the 111 it works better but still both work well. was just a guess w/o knowing what is going on on your machine and before I saw the videos.

now its obvious maybe check with Keystone sewing in PA or Toledo Sewing in OH

So you think it will not sew leather? Why? Do you have some pictures?