Constabulary

I think you are right, the new opener lever (don´t have one yet) looks a bit bent upwards...

Still wrapping my mind around this... Hook tip position is not too critical I guess. The fixed point you (we) have to deal with is the gap in the needle plate where the small bobbin case tab goes in, right? I mean thread has to pass that gap w/o hanging so the gap is a "fixed point" whereas the needle bar can be adjusted... So back to the drawing board EDIT: still looks like 3mm difference between OEM small hook and new large hook. Old hook 19mm - new hook 22m Still thinking the whole "hook saddle well" has to be milled down by 3mm. I´m not a machinist so if someone has other ideas please share your thoughts...

some rough measurement: When the OEM hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~16mm. When the new large hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~19mm. So I have to mill down ~3mm (roughly - don´t have a caliper on hand atm) inside the entire hook saddle well to keep the needle hook timing right. Am I right with this? If I' m wrong maybe some one can help me.

I just dug out an old Singer hook saddle... when taking a closer look and putting in the large hook I´d say It cannot be just the hook bushing part you have to mill down. The rest of the inner hook saddle (lets say "the well") needs to be milled don too. Otherwise the opener lever link (the 8-shaped part) would stay at the same height cause it sits in a fix position on the bobbin case opener lever Maybe you can shed some light.... EDIT: some ppictures

can´t you lower the needle bar and use 794 needles?

In many cases Ebay has the better prices compared with Amazon. I bought a larger hook + 10 spools for approx the same price back then but haven´t yet started that project What no one (seemingly) has answered yet is how much material do I have to grind / mill down (in millimeters)?

Well, old machines are old machines no matter the brand but a lot of the more modern machines are rather based on Singer models than on other brands. So the availability and the price tag of certain parts is better for Singer based machines. Of course you do not get everything new but looking over the fence a little bit shows a wide range of interchangeable parts on other brands based on Singer machines - especially in the "upholstery class". But don´t get me wrong, you of course can get Adler and Pfaff parts but the older the model the harder it is to find certain spare parts. When you read restoration threads here you figure that f.i. Pfaff has changed several parts even on the same model over the years. I figured that's too when I looked for screws a while ago. I´m not bashing Pfaff or Adler - excellent machine, no doubt. But I´m using Singer machines only and thats for a reason. When you do not need the latest technical craze then old Singer models are a good choice. For most of my machines I at least can tell you one or two other brands where I can get interchangeable parts from (either new or used). Especially after market Singer hooks are extremely cheap nowadays. But being "Singer crazy" is just my philosophy but that does not mean that this is everybody else's "best choice" too. Especially when the market for used machines is small you often have to buy what crosses your way. At the end you are the one who has to put the money on the table.

Don´t know how the junction box on your clicker looks like but maybe this is helpful for you:

Check the 1st post in this thread for downloading a manual:

you have to keep us update with this. I know people did this but afaik no one showed his end result.

I once owned a BUSMC / DVSG #6HM and played with the idea of motorizing it (actually never did) I talked to LW Member SINGERMANIA back then and he said you can add a servo. But to be honest I personally would go with a clutch motor because the machine flywheel is quite heavy and the servos only have an electronic brake whereas the clutch motors have large mechanical brake. I think the clutch motor brakes are more durable and may last longer in the long view. But that's just my opinion.

That is a mattress edge binding setup where the machines moves around the table. I think there is a YT video showing this... let me check. Reg. timing - in the 1st post in this thread you can download manual with all necessary timing values and parts list as well. I´m not sure but looks the top shaft is bent at the hand wheel. That could be a killer damage. EDIT: Video is gone - I once posted it here - too bad! EDIT II: However - different machine - same principle:

This KUNPENG seller has several Ebay accounts (Germany, US, UK...). I have good experiences. Shipping always is was tracked and items are very well packed. Takes approx 2-4 weeks to arrive (on my side of the channel).

You can easily DIY a 1:3 Speed reducer - does not cost too much. 40mm + 120mm Pulley with 15mm bore from College sewing (or a bit cheaper from China via Ebay) some screws 10-15cm long piece of round bar material 2 Pillow block for 15mm shafts little bit of wood from the craps box (if you have one) I made one for my 51w setup as well.

Damn - Bob knows all the little tricks! Thanks for the hint. Paint really matters I think. But which paint makes the machine sew thicker - rather dull or do you prefer shiny? I hope it will be at least as good as this one here but most likely a lot better right?

okay bought the machine. Now I´m looking for 207 thread with apple or strawberry taste. I already have cinnamon You think so? Maybe its a "solvent turkey" cause I have nothing to restore....

whaaaat - you say I cannot sew holster with it? Okay, I think I go with the one Gordon has lost (and I guess recommends) . Its more expensive but I think it´s the much heavier machine so I´ll bite the bullet. Super HD sewing machine

choose a needle 1 size larger or bottom thread 1 size smaller.

I want this machine and I wonder if I can sew holsters with it. I think it takes 794 needle but I'm not sure. Maybe some one can help me. Thread path is unknown so I hope someone has experience with it and can give me some instructions HD Sewing Machine

What in particular are Deutsch Hooks? Do you have a picture?

Chart in the manual says up to #26 needle. But I seriously doubt that #26 needle where available for this needle system because of the thin shaft (below 2mm). And I doubt the thick thread would pass the gap between hook and needle plate w/o problems because the machine (at least mine) has no bobbin case opener. Later machines have a bobbin case opener (see manual I sent you). Realistic is a #22 needle and 138 thread max. I´d say. But I usually run #92 / #96 thread in this machine. The availability of system 128 needles on my side of the pond and the condition of the original needle bar lead me to the idea of changing the needle bar. So now I´m able to use "common needles". But that required modifying the machine. I had to install a longer needle bar guide on the upper end because the "new" needle bar was a lot shorter than the original needle bar. The majority of my machines are using 135x17 needles and therefore the decision was easy to set up this machine for 135x17 as well so I do not have to stock lots of different needle systems. EDIT: I have to correct my self. I just have checked an old needle catalogue and it states #26 where available for system 128 (decades ago...). Does not make much sense IMO but well, thats what the catalogue says. I stick to my opinion that 138 and #22 needle at max. is a reasonable combination. But he limitation is pretty much the size of the needle hole in your needle plate.

I have a manual for an early 51w meanwhile (came from a LW member) but it is not exactly for your (our) machine(s) subclass but anyway it is a usable manual but has some technical differences. File is too big to attach here. Please send me your email address by PM if you are interested. I own the 51WSV2 UWE has liked to. Very decent machine. Of course not the latest technical craze but hey forming a thread knot has not changed the "last years" so mine really works very well, I´m pleased. However I made several technical changes like different hook and different needle bar to accommodate a more common needle (137x17) and so forth. I also found new made feed dogs and needle plates that fits this decades old machine. I also increased the stitch length but I explained all that in the above linked thread. This parts list should be quite close for your machine: Download Link: Singer 51w25 to 31 Parts list

DBx1 and 1738 are the same needle. So when a lot of needles are braking there seems to be a technical problem. Leather point needle in this system are : 16X257LR / DBXF2 / 1738LR What means "top is too narrow"?

Do you have pictures of that machine? Not all Class 67 where triple feed ("walking foot") machines they came as needle feed + drop feed and roller foot machines as well. So before you make the trip some pictures may help to ID the machine.

Most important - check the condition of the timing belt - changing it is a pain!