Constabulary

Electronic bells and whistles can safe money in mass production and can make things (sewing) more comfortable as long as they properly work. So it depends on your output and how comfortable you like it. But as chrisash said these bells and whistles can turn into a money pit when they go faulty after a few... years? If they last - great - if not it´ll be expensive. Since you are in Ohio - why not checking with Toledo Sewing Machines so you have a local dealer who can help you https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb8810.html

Here is another file Singer 52w.pdf

Looks similar to Singer 52w (very early model made from Wheeler & Wilson parts) but I do not know the subclass. I have attached manual for a 52w100 which seems to be close but there may be some minor differences. The manual came from another LW member just recently. A while ago I have restored a 51w single needle machine which is very similar to yours. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/86292-singer-51w-sv-2-post-bed-machine-restoration/ EDIT: Just noticed you posted in the above thread already. Singer 51w100 and 52w100 - instructions for using and adjusting.pdf

Maybe you like to post some pictures of the front and back side to show the details of either machine for future reference. Picture often tell more than a thousand words.

The 29K71 is almost identical. There are just minor differences. The majority of 29K71 parts will work for the 29K58.

Don, my original idea (or brain fart) was this thingy here which goes into single phase table saws: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Vollmetall-Sanftanlauf-Anlaufwiderstand-12A-mit-Osen-Softstart-Soft-Start/143616841340 I´m not really following the idea for my sewing servo cause I have no need but it just popped up in my head so I asked. You never know.

I do not know this machine in particular but Sunstar is a known Korean Brand. It appears to be based on the Singer 212G141 or similar but with different stitch length adjuster. I´m quite confident that the Sun Star is using the the same gauge parts (for different needle distances) as the Singer 212. I own a 212G141 and when I look at the parts list & user manual (can be found online) I see many similarities. Hooks and bobbins can be found online and are for sure the same as for other Singer based double needle machines. I have converted my 212G141 to a "split needle machine" - maybe you are interested in it. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/80209-singer-212-112-double-needle-converting-into-split-needle/?tab=comments#comment-535703 You can us it as 1 needle machine by just removing 1 needle and the bobbin. But there are no special "single needle feet for double needle machines". You either have to modify a double needle foot for your needs or just use the double needle foot as is. But the 2nd hooks is always spinning you cannot turn it off. I would not worry buying the machine if it technically suits your needs. When you go and look at it check if forward and reverse stitch length are matching, check the condition of the timing belt and if the foot lift suits your needs. I don´t know Refrey machine but by just looking at it it appears to be some kind of clone of Pfaff or Juki machines.

Was just a wild idea... if you don´t ask you will not know the answer Maybe a brain fart.

I think I have one... Let me check. A while ago I have restored a Dürkopp Class 18 patcher machine but I no longer own it. EDIT: Just notices the doc files - the link goes to my machine

I know - I have speed reducers on all my machines. I want to add a soft start to my table saw so this just popped up in my head... just an idea... don´t know if it is possible at all.

Just a tinkering idea.... I´m not an electrician so I wonder if it possible to add a soft start module (as on table saws) to our sewing machine servos. Will it improve the comfort and does it make sense at all?

The Class 17 has a fairly small pulley on the hand wheel. So when installing a servo you should install a 40-50mm pulley (the smaller the better) on the motor shaft and I would even consider a speed reducer. Most servos start at 200rpm and when you have a 50mm pulley on the servo and lets say a 70mm pulley (I guess) on the hand wheel your machine still runs at approx 140rpm at slowest speed. Ant it would be even more the larger the motor pulley is. Thats why I would consider a speed reducer (DIY or bought off the shelf). If it was my machine I would install the speed reducer where the clutch system is mounted and the servo where the current motor is mounted. I would even keep the original table plate cause it looks quite nice. I would clean it or grind off the surface and either oil it or apply a clear varnish. My 2 cents

On my end they often sell between 800€ and 1200€ w. motor and table in good used condition so when $460 is USD then its approx 385€ - thats less than half the lower end price! You can be sure - that offer would not last a day on Ebay or classifieds.

ha ha - bargain - buy it!

Hope you have not brazed the wedge of the inside of the squared frame. Same with the wedge on the small gib that goes into the frame. You need the wedges for proper foot movement. Also make sure you install the frame and gib correctly (see attached pictures). If you install them incorrectly your stitch length will suffer. Be careful with modern 29K parts - there were a lot of changes between your 29 and the latest model 29K71 - only a few parts of the nowadays 29K clones fit for the century old 29. Ford F-100 parts of the 1st generation cannot be replaced with Ford F-100 parts of the 13th generation, some screws may work but thats it. Pretty much the same with your 29 model and the nowadays 29K71 clones. Only because its a Singer 29 model does not mean all parts work for all machines! Do you have a parts number of your 29 needle bar? I may have an original Singer needle bar.

it´s a binding machine so go ahead and check the foot lift and test sew it that will tell you the true story. You never know if a used industrial machine has been altered or not. The data plate shows the setup the machine has left the factory with (in best case) but not if someone did some technical alterations over the years (or decades). Industrial sewing machines can be set up for dozens of different sewing operations w/o showing the actual setup on the tag. You know what I mean? Test sewing the machine is always the best bet Maybe this list will help you a little bit. Pfaff 335 H3 Subclass Old Casting.pdf

Haven´t tried it w/o the spring but a lot of sewing machine (Pfaff, Adler...) with triple feed DO NOT have this screw so I´m quite confident it works w/o the screw.

spare springs & screw or complete bobbin cases should be available. Check the parts list - google the part numbers or check with an industrial sewing machine dealer.

Solve the bottom tension problem first. It may bother you in the future again so better get it done soon.Try to apply some heat to the tension spring + screw and try again. If you have problems reaching the tension screw then remove the bobbin case from the hook. Maybe there is dirt under the spring or spring is worn... just check it. Maybe buy a new bobbin case if you can´t remove the tension spring (check parts number on bobbin case) or the screws are messed up. For removing bobbin case see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvEsOKqdPZ4

No manual? First hit on Google delivers an Engineer manual for the machine http://www.pennsewparts.com/images/LUH-521%20EM.pdf You have a 2 needle machine - so one hook has to rotated the other direction.

aaaaaah - that makes sense. I thought you did away with the old bushing and use a linear bearing block

Thanks for sharing and posting the manuals!!!!

Aren´t these linear bearing blocks? I´m not sure but don´t they have a "plastic sleeve" the balls are embedded in? So I´m not sure if they withstand the "pulling force" of the V-Belts on long term use... Don´t know for sure...

794 / 7x1 / 7x3 are approx 69mm long in total No idea what needle you have there. Is the machine functional with the needles you have? Can you post pictures of the needle and if you have the needle package. But you should be able to lower the needle bar to accommodate 794 / 7x1 / 7x3 needles.

You have to install the needle / throat plate otherwise it will never work. If the thread still keeps hanging on the bobbin case opener you have to adjust it. This videos by LW member UWE should give you an idea