Constabulary

Usually you can run 138 in top and bottom but we do not know how your machine is set up. Just try it out. As you may have noticed in the above video UWE is even running 207 top and bottom. You usually use bottom thread 1 size smaller when the machine (for what ever reason) has problems centering the thread knots in the middle of the material you sew.

Any progress with your machine? I would like to see more pictures....

I have tried Hammerite a few times and to be honest I was not really pleased (maybe user error - maybe not). I had nicer results with this paint: https://www.ebay.de/itm/1411755350 But you have to practice too but IMO it is the nicer and faster drying paint. You may find it with different brands like RENOVO but thats just the label, they are made by PETER KWASNY.

Would be nice to see more detailed pictures from all side (incl. bottom side). Can´t be wrong to have some documentation for the future. Your machine of course has some specialties / differences but you most likely can use any 112w manual for the basics you need for "just sewing". See attachment. Since the 111 and 112 series are using identical hooks you most likely can use up to 138 thread but that may depend on how the machine is setup. No one knows if it has been modified or how it it actually is set up so you can only try it out by your self. Please post more pictures of your machine. Also post pictures of the hooks. 112W140.pdf

wow - JUKI website indeed states 15mm https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/leather_e/cylinder_e/dsc2447_2457_2467_244_245_246.html But I would check with the seller and ask if he can confirm this before placing an order.

I would not buy a patcher machine for producing leather goods at all. They are funny machines for sewing this and that and for repairs but not proper production machines for serious and good quality leather goods. There may be niches but basically they were designed for making repairs - mainly.

So far - what I experienced with selling things on Ebay to UK customers. Ebay charges the customer automatically 20% VAT but thats just a transit payment which goes to your paypal account but immediately is withdrawn from Ebay again. So if you wouldn´t see it you would not even notice it. So not really a big issue for the seller - so far. Abbey England also has a Blog on Brexit for their customers: https://www.abbeyengland.com/blog/breaking-through-brexit.html College Sewing is (afaik) mainly shipping with UPS so you usually do not have to go to the customs office cause they do the import paper work for you (based on the invoice CS has included) but UPS may charge a fee for that beside VAT & custom fees. I haven´t ordered from CS after Brexit. Maybe someone else did and likes to share his/her experiences.

Do you have a manual? Are you using a threading wire? There is a paddle spring at the end of the needle bar you only an pass with a proper threading wire.

Don´t let the room maid see the harness laying on your bed - she might have little bit of cinema in her head and probbaly won´t come back the next day

You have a lot of known brands like Consew, JUKI, Mitsubishi, Seiko, older Dürkopp (not Dürkopp-Adler) and gazillions of from China made brands which are based on Singer machines - of course not all their machines but still a lot. Not all are 1:1 copies but by looking closer at their details (parts) you will notice their roots.

I think you are right, the new opener lever (don´t have one yet) looks a bit bent upwards...

Still wrapping my mind around this... Hook tip position is not too critical I guess. The fixed point you (we) have to deal with is the gap in the needle plate where the small bobbin case tab goes in, right? I mean thread has to pass that gap w/o hanging so the gap is a "fixed point" whereas the needle bar can be adjusted... So back to the drawing board EDIT: still looks like 3mm difference between OEM small hook and new large hook. Old hook 19mm - new hook 22m Still thinking the whole "hook saddle well" has to be milled down by 3mm. I´m not a machinist so if someone has other ideas please share your thoughts...

some rough measurement: When the OEM hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~16mm. When the new large hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~19mm. So I have to mill down ~3mm (roughly - don´t have a caliper on hand atm) inside the entire hook saddle well to keep the needle hook timing right. Am I right with this? If I' m wrong maybe some one can help me.

I just dug out an old Singer hook saddle... when taking a closer look and putting in the large hook I´d say It cannot be just the hook bushing part you have to mill down. The rest of the inner hook saddle (lets say "the well") needs to be milled don too. Otherwise the opener lever link (the 8-shaped part) would stay at the same height cause it sits in a fix position on the bobbin case opener lever Maybe you can shed some light.... EDIT: some ppictures

can´t you lower the needle bar and use 794 needles?

In many cases Ebay has the better prices compared with Amazon. I bought a larger hook + 10 spools for approx the same price back then but haven´t yet started that project What no one (seemingly) has answered yet is how much material do I have to grind / mill down (in millimeters)?

Well, old machines are old machines no matter the brand but a lot of the more modern machines are rather based on Singer models than on other brands. So the availability and the price tag of certain parts is better for Singer based machines. Of course you do not get everything new but looking over the fence a little bit shows a wide range of interchangeable parts on other brands based on Singer machines - especially in the "upholstery class". But don´t get me wrong, you of course can get Adler and Pfaff parts but the older the model the harder it is to find certain spare parts. When you read restoration threads here you figure that f.i. Pfaff has changed several parts even on the same model over the years. I figured that's too when I looked for screws a while ago. I´m not bashing Pfaff or Adler - excellent machine, no doubt. But I´m using Singer machines only and thats for a reason. When you do not need the latest technical craze then old Singer models are a good choice. For most of my machines I at least can tell you one or two other brands where I can get interchangeable parts from (either new or used). Especially after market Singer hooks are extremely cheap nowadays. But being "Singer crazy" is just my philosophy but that does not mean that this is everybody else's "best choice" too. Especially when the market for used machines is small you often have to buy what crosses your way. At the end you are the one who has to put the money on the table.

Don´t know how the junction box on your clicker looks like but maybe this is helpful for you:

Check the 1st post in this thread for downloading a manual:

you have to keep us update with this. I know people did this but afaik no one showed his end result.

I once owned a BUSMC / DVSG #6HM and played with the idea of motorizing it (actually never did) I talked to LW Member SINGERMANIA back then and he said you can add a servo. But to be honest I personally would go with a clutch motor because the machine flywheel is quite heavy and the servos only have an electronic brake whereas the clutch motors have large mechanical brake. I think the clutch motor brakes are more durable and may last longer in the long view. But that's just my opinion.

That is a mattress edge binding setup where the machines moves around the table. I think there is a YT video showing this... let me check. Reg. timing - in the 1st post in this thread you can download manual with all necessary timing values and parts list as well. I´m not sure but looks the top shaft is bent at the hand wheel. That could be a killer damage. EDIT: Video is gone - I once posted it here - too bad! EDIT II: However - different machine - same principle:

This KUNPENG seller has several Ebay accounts (Germany, US, UK...). I have good experiences. Shipping always is was tracked and items are very well packed. Takes approx 2-4 weeks to arrive (on my side of the channel).

You can easily DIY a 1:3 Speed reducer - does not cost too much. 40mm + 120mm Pulley with 15mm bore from College sewing (or a bit cheaper from China via Ebay) some screws 10-15cm long piece of round bar material 2 Pillow block for 15mm shafts little bit of wood from the craps box (if you have one) I made one for my 51w setup as well.

Damn - Bob knows all the little tricks! Thanks for the hint. Paint really matters I think. But which paint makes the machine sew thicker - rather dull or do you prefer shiny? I hope it will be at least as good as this one here but most likely a lot better right?