Constabulary

If it was my machine I`d order some "common" needle systems for testing (like 328, 794, 1000) in approx size 180 or 200 and test them in different needle holder positions. This of course is trial and error and no one knows if any of the needles will work. Another option is you look for some rigid / stiff 2mm - 3mm round bar / round material (depends on how wide the needle hole is) for inserting it as a needle substitute. Make sure it is not hitting parts somewhere. Shove it all the way up into the needle holder. Then rotate the hand wheel until the tip of the shuttle meets the needle substitute in the middle of the "needle" and make a mark with an Edding or similar where the shuttle tip meets the needle. Test this in all needle holder positions. Measure the distance from top of the "needle" down to the edding mark and with this measure we can "try" to find a needle that "could" probably work. This of course is not a very precise method but you do not have many options since you do not have an original neelde. Threading the shuttle should be fairly easy to figure and for the top thread path I guess I have a manual of an older Adler II flat bed machine that should work for your machine as well. BTW - just wondering is the shuttle carrier rotating or oscillating. Also if you don´t mind please post some more pictures of the machine in full view form all sides and some detailed pictures of the external parts. Can´t be wrong to have some documentation for the future. Does your machine have a bobbin winder?

You are welcome, Jack

try a larger size needle like metric NM 180 or 200.

So when I look closer at your needle holder it appears that it is height adjustable and probably could take shorter needles / more common needles as well. Can you take a picture of the opposite side of the needle bar please? In best case you may be able to reposition or maybe modify the holder to accommodate common (modern) needles like the 794 or others.

Well question like this have been covered probbaly a dozen times. Thats quite a wide range of material thickness from 2x 2 ounce (together approx 1mm) to 6x 4 ounce (together approx 15mm) So you either end up with (at least) 2 machines or you rethink your material thicknesses. You really want to sew 15mm (take a ruler and check) or is it rather less? It´s less, right? Layers do not matter really, the total material thickness matters. New or refurbished doesn't matter in the end. You can have new machines which are poorly set up / do not suit your needs or you can have a refurbished machine which is set up perfectly for what you want to do. That often depends on your dealer or the seller. Can´t be wrong if you check with dealer who is specialized in leather sewing machines. Machines often look the same but can be set up for different purposes. If you buy used from a private seller always test the machine with the max. thread and material thickness you want to sew. But keep in mind the motor matters a lot. It´s not only the machine that has to suit your needs, the motor is very important too. So it can happen that your machine is great but the motor sucks (too fast, not powerful enough...). Since you like UWE´s FBA - have you checked with him if he could offer you a proper machine? Just an idea...

Excellent! Different story - has your 341 a small or large bobbin hook? Looks like a small bobbin as it has no cap (just curious).

Good Lord A post bed machine made by KOCH (later Koch´s Adler, then Adler, nowadays Dürkopp-Adler) but I do not know the model. I only can guess - I assume it is a "KOCHS ADLER - Sattler Universal Class 23. If that is the case (I only can guess) then the needle system is 580 / 585A. System 580 is a ~ 10,5cm long needle but it is obsolete. As Jimi said, pictures are too small to tell details. Most likely the flat bed version of this machine were either the Adler II or Adler III. H. Sackmann appears to be the dealer the machine once was bought from. Do you have the shuttle hook (see pictures 3,4) and maybe a bobbin? Open the cover plate on the post and hopefully the parts are present. If present please post some pictures. If the the parts are missing (or maybe they are in the drawer?) there is almost no chance to find the parts, I´d say. This is what I have cobbled together from my records (see pictures)

I read prices of up to $600 but that could have been Aussie Dollars. Right now one is on ebay for 499 GBP but yours appears to be in better condition (but I would clean it anyway) but I don´t think the one on Ebay will sell for that price. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Bobbin-Winder-For-Pearson-6-Harness-British-United-Leather-Stitcher-/264340833603 If you want to sell it fast I think a fair price is $300-350

so it was the motor and not the machine, right? For the thread hole try abrasive / emery cord.

Not exactly sure what you mean? You mean technical data and capabilities? If not a 29K1 then your machine is a US made machine otherwise it is made in the UK.The machine is approx a century old (or older) - you can tell by the serial number. Very few parts are available new (some remained the same up to the latest model) , needle plates and gear box pinions are no longer available new (you may find some used in best case), the needle plates and pinions you find online are usually for the latest model and do not fit the 29-1. The Bell crank lever of the latest 29K models can be modified to fit the old 29 / 29K models. Hooks and bobbins remained the same as well as the parts of the thread tension units. Machine should be able to handle #138 thread max. but may depend on the needle plate hole and the hook. So #96 most-likely will work better. Max stitch length in best case is 5 SPI / 5mm but on used / old machines rather expect 2.5 - 3mm (because of parts wear) but you never know - depends on the conditions of the machine. And the thicker the material the shorter become the stitches. Machine should be able to handle 6-8mm stick materials. So thats what comes to my mind... hope it helps. A few years ago I have restored a 29K1. This was mine - maybe you find some useful information in this thread:

This may be of interest for you. You machine is not listed but anyway.... https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTEX/2753/imagepages/image35.htm I found an "odd" Singer 16KSV11 approx 1.5 years ago and reworked it. This ways mine (sold it). Regarding clockwise rotation - well you live in down under **kidding** I think you can reverse the feed direction by adjusting the feed cam on the top shaft. I once did that on a friends Dürkopp machine but not on a class 16 but I guess its similar. Here again is an extract from a Class 31 manual I think its the same as on the Class 16. But be careful with this you may have a binding at one point. I´d put a mark on the feed cam and the shaft before making adjustments so you always can go back to the original setting. Hope it helps.

I have no timing values for the Class 16 but afaik it has a CB hook. And on most (if not all) CB hook machines you usually you bring the needle bar to bottom dead center and from there you rise the needle bar approx 2.5mm (as I said I have no exact values for the Class 16) and an that point the hook tip should be in the center of the needle approx 2mm above the needle eye. Have to check if I can find a manual or so.... EDIT: this is an extract from a Singer 31-19 manual but should work for CB hooks Class 16 machines as well

Yeah - thats on me - it was meant to be a just a link in the signature but forum turned it into a full size video. I removed it I also have hidden some over sized signatures of members.

Best bet - go and test either machine to see if it suit your needs. The data plate shows the technical state / set up the machine left the factory with. But it could well be that the machines have been modified or reworked (not unusual) and are no longer set up the way they left the factory.

looks like a Juki 563 (large hook) or 562 (standard hook) to me

1st I´d check with LW member SHOEPATCHER

THANK YOU for your pictures. I honestly did not know how I could achieve this clean end when binding (the in folded tape I mean). Usually my "binding tape end" is folded over by 1/2" or so and bar tacked and I rarely need this "fold in end" but now that I see it it its obvious but I honestly had no idea. Tried it and it works with my cheap binders and thick cotton tape . Ha Ha - again - Thank you.

so we can´t blame you , well maybe a little bit Have you tried a "parcel forwarder" who is collecting and consolidating your packages and send them to you combined in one package? Know what I mean? Like this one but there are many more: https://www.forward2me.com/ Not sure if this is an option for you but maybe worth checking.

expect to pay serious $$$ for the missing parts. Looks like your needle plate is missing too. I´m not sure if Seiko SLH-2 parts will work but if so the shuttle race would be approx 300 or more + 200 or more for the hook I guess.

What? 75 GBP VS 13.5 GBP? Same country just a different Island - no changes I´d say. Or did they probably get something wrong? BTW - Did you vote for leave? I just have checked College Sewing cause I want to order another servo sooner or later (+ other bits) and want to stay with JACK Servos cause CS even has spare parts for them (you never know - can´t be wrong to have a source). So they charge no UK VAT and shipping to Germany is 18 GBP by DPD and 22.75 GBP by UPS (+/- ) but I of course have to pay the German VAT on my end. I think the carrier will charge me the VAT + a handling fee but I do not know if I have to pay taxes cause the Jack Servos are made in China and not UK (obviously). I think I will start a "Trial Balloon" and see how it works - I just have to figure what it costs and how it works.

Find a 132K manual here. Seiko SK8 is a later but similar model but you get a lot of good information from that manual. Here is a basic 45K Manual for a maschine with reverse but principles are the same. Hope it helps 45Kmanual.pdf

That would have been my suggestion too. But if you want to or have to buy in Europe check with College Sewing: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/pfaff-sewing-machine-parts/pfaff-335-sewing-machine-parts

First I´d oil it as shown in the 153w manual and crank it by hand to figure if something is wrong. If it turns over w/o problems thread the machine as shown in the manual and crank it by hand and see if it sews. This way you know it is in good order before you clean it and probably take apart something. Manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364425/Singer-153w102.html#product-153W103

you can upload pictures to your posts but make sure the file size is not too big.

Hope you are aware that this is NOT a sewing machine - it is a sack darning machine. So if you want to trade it for a post bed machine do not offer this thingy as a sewing machine. Reg. Needle size and because it is a darning machine I´d guess needles up to NM 180 or 200 make sense. if it was a sewing machine like 133K3 It could handle up to 230 (I had a 133K3 and was able to run 230 needles)