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Constabulary

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Everything posted by Constabulary

  1. You can adjust the needle bar to accommodate the 135x16 needles. Compare the needle length and raise the NB by the amount the longer needle is longer than the shorter on measured from right above the needle eye up to the end of shaft (not to the needle tip). But you probably have to fine tune thew NB a little bit. I have set most of my machines to 135x17 / 135x16 so I do not have to stock endless needles types and sizes and in worst case even mix them up . It's s a lot easier when all machines are using the same needle system. My 2 cents
  2. I would not buy it if it has no shuttle hook. I guess it is a HENGSTENBERG made (or rebranded) patcher. Bobbins can be reproduced but shuttle hooks for this type of patcher are 90% obsolete. With some luck the modern CLAES shuttles fit but they cost new an arm and a leg and it´s not safe that they will fit at all. There were literally dozens of different patcher hooks back then. Just to give you an idea... See below list of "Elastic Shuttles" for patchers. Or sell this machine to LW member SHOEPATCHER - thats probably the best bet! EDIT: see 3rd picture for a Hengestenber factory plaque
  3. reg. zipper - Renia Aqulim SG sounds like a good idea too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXzY13T1rqI
  4. Most likely the parts come from different far east manufacturers and they may have slightly different specs / tolerances - you can have this with car parts too - some perfectly fit and some don´t even when the parts # is the same. Guess why Singer always had an add in their manuals Good old days - but these days are gone - just as Singer.
  5. Went back to a plain foot - works better for my purposes. So here is a quick & dirty YT video just to show how well the old 1975 dated 250Watt Moretti motor in addition of a 1:3 Speed reducer performs - really love it! It´s just about the performance, not the seam quality
  6. You most likely have an old outdated clutch motor. I would replace it with a new servo motor and add a speed reducer. Do a forum google search like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=servo+speed+reducer+site%3Aleatherworker.net&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 lots of different solutions in terms of speed reducers. Some DIY some out of the box from sewing machine dealers... lots of options.
  7. Either Adler 30-10 (small hook, short needle) or 30-70 (large hook, long needle, higher foot lift than 30-10) The Class 30 is a patcher meant mainly for repair works. I would not buy a patcher machines as primary leather sewing machine. Its useful for many repair works but I would not recommend it for producing leather goods and sewing long seams.
  8. If you have a #10 or #20 subclass machine- yes. If you have #30 subclass machine - no. The #30 needs System 88 needles (longer)
  9. Consew 225 or seiko stw-8... or so I guess. No Singer or Juki I think. Look t at the tension unit and the hook if you can see any makers stamps
  10. Are you sure the machine is correctly threaded (top & bottom) and set the tension correctly? You probably need a larger size needle - note this thread / needle chart. What needle & thread size are you using? https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Needles can be found here: http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Claes-Model-10-20-Needles-10-per-pack_p_352.html when looking at other sources make sure you do not buy DCx1, 81x1 or 81x5 needles, that's a complete different needle for overclock machines and the like. Please post some pictures of the threaded machine
  11. A few pictures would be nice but check this thread: If it looks like yours maybe you can get a manual of the THOR GB6-180-2: http://www.sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/en/leather-upholstery-machines/thor-gb6-180-2-cylinder-arm-extra-heavy-duty-top-and-bottom-feed-walking-foot-sewing-machine-detail EDIT: Brain fart: when I look close to it it kinda appears to be (roughly) a modernized version of the Singer 133K8 (seems feet are the same - or not?) but with different hook and stitch length mechanism... As I said - roughly... Machine has no needle feed I guess... Or an updated cylinder version of the Mitsubishi DW-253... kinda
  12. post a video if possible. hand wheel / pulley wobble is either a bent shaft or hand wheel / pulley it self. Probably because of an accident or mishap during shipping / handling. if it is just the hand wheel I would guess one of these could be a placement: https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-BELT-DRIVEN-PULLEY-WHEEL-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-Juki-Brother-15mm-shaft/132487025827 https://www.ebay.com/itm/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-V-BELT-DRIVEN-PULLEY-WHEEL-BIG/132486870387
  13. x100 rpm I think. The 500rpm are the lowest max speed you can set (I guess you have a JACK servo, right?) but the lowest start rpm are 200. TOXO - what servo has the Adler 69 - any make or model markings?
  14. Don´t know where you are living but Collge Sewing in the UK has them: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/226292-swing-guide-singer-111w-211w-211g.html or check ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swing-Away-Edge-Sewing-Guide-226292-For-Industrial-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine/401372513600
  15. #19 needle sounds good for this machine - the bobbins are very small (I had an Adler 48 - pretty much the same machine w. same hook) and therefore it cannot hold much 138 thread though I was able to run 138 top and bottom (polyester thread). When the machine shredding thread it often is just the needle bar that needs an adjustment (often a little bit lowering). But of course hard to tell from the distance and depends on if the machine is setup for the original needle system and you are using the correct needle. But also could be a burr in the needle eye or somewhere in the thread path.
  16. haven´t noticed that these feet have been discussed before... @NylonRiging - maybe worth checking with them - meanwhile the Chinese Ebay sellers f.i. ship overseas again. Maybe KH just has not updated their front page banners.
  17. The 307G2 is almost the only machine I own which have not really restored, I only cleaned mine and it worked really well. So I can only guess here and only can make suggestions. Hopefully someone else has more experiences with this machine. I will soak up any information. So from my experience the 107w seem to be very similar in its ZZ control (as far as I can tell). The "screw" you marked sees to be the shaft for the ZZ drive gear. You can download a parts list here: https://www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/adqbmhsh.pd Also there is a 107w Video maybe if gives you an idea for adjusting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdGD7D9QCUk Sorry I really cannot help much here. I wish I had a 2nd machine "to play with" EDIT: I have a better 307G2 parts list but file is to big to attach here (11MB), send me your email address by PM soI can send it to you.
  18. Found this while looking for ZZ feet with L+R side guide. Haven't seen this type of presser foot for the 441 type machine before so I just wanted to share this. http://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=462 Maybe useful for some folks here.
  19. Have you checked the position of the L - R "push lever" - is is centered? Have you checked the position of 2 limiter thumb screws left and right of the ZZ lever are they set to the far left / right?? The 307G2 has a small eccentric stud but this is just fine tuning for the needle position, just wanted to have it mentioned in case you did not know. Loosen the set screw from the left and then you should be able to fine tune the needle position - see pictures. But this will not solve your problem.
  20. I don´t think we can estimate the market price for this machine in Slovenia. Market prices differ a lot from country to country. So just offer what you think it is worth / what are you willing to pay. Maybe between 500 and 1000. You sometimes can find them dirt cheap from people who do not know what they have but since it is already equipped with a servo I would guess the guy knows what he has so I would probably say 600-800€ and you have a good deal. Don´t know if the seller considers this as a good offer so its up to you and what you are willing to pay. To give you an idea - this seems to be the head only: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/naehmaschine-adler-5-27-industrienaehmaschine-fuer-sattler-schuster/1401310342-282-4417 or scroll down here - seems its sold https://www.shpock.com/de-de/i/U4M_Wtko0RFki0YZ/naehmaschine-adler-5-27
  21. sorry - wrong track but maybe an optional way for attaching binders there are right side slide plates with a raised part and screw holes for attaching binders but I haven´t seen them for sale recently... If your machine has a front slide pate you may be able to attach binder on this plate as well but it may not work with you current binder or you make a bracket to fit the binder. Maybe you can post some pictures of your machine + binder you want to use EDIT: this is the "raised" / built up plate but w/o holes. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/240003sp-slide-plate-built-up-111w.html EDIT II: This thread maybe be useful for you
  22. like this one? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/226292-swing-guide-singer-111w-211w-211g.html
  23. even when you pay more (when buying directly from China) you never know if it is the same part with just a higher price. No one knows in advance... But buying from a dealer with a good reputation most likely is the best choice. I figured that JUKI and SEIKO oem parts are of a way better quality compared with what you get directly from China via Ebay or Aliexpress or so. Yes, a bit more expensive but trouble free. I received some very good parts directly from China (f.i. complete hooks for $12) but also some rubbish parts. I usually buy OEM Seiko & JUKI parts for my Singers from College Sewing in the UK and what I can´t find there I try to find on Ebay (from China).
  24. for needles check with College Sewing in the UK https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=794+needle Not worth buying just a pack of needles but you may find other useful things too.
  25. I would not contact people by PM asking for a business idea. Thats what the forum is for and you for sure get more answers here than by PM - kinda crowd intelligence I´d say. Starting a leather business when you come from zero (meaning w/o any skills) is probably a very hard way. It´s easier when you come from a hobby (and you are good at it / have developed certain skills) and then try to start a business. From zero to hero is very hard I´d say. Start making leather goods for you and your family & friends or your community (maybe even for free?) and ask for their "not sugar coated" opinion. And I tell you there is a lot of sugar coating. People often tend to say ooooh, thats so nice even when it´s not.
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