jimi

Start making room for more machines bikermutt....

Nice one Brian, that´s going to speed things up for you for sure. I think i saw someone doing this by hand but with a larger piece of leather, with his fingers. but your circles are pretty small and having two shovels for hands don´t help . onya cobber. Thanks for sharing Brian.

I would agree with Folker and his 2 cents. I had a similar problem, the difference was you have the broken part and it was a hole with a Singer thread. I usually ask some friends to weld things up but was advised this time to epoxy fix instead. The reason being was due to the bottom flat bed might have suffered from the heat. So i drilled 4 holes approx 3-4mm in diameter and inserted stainless steel threaded rods with some JB weld, then made a wall around with a plastic sheet and filled it up until i got the height of the foot. The hole where the thread went was plugged with a wax dowel as i had half the thread there and was in line with the other end. Once set i took out the plug and used the tap to thread the epoxy side having the the other side to guide. The thread holds and i can rest the machine on the floor no problem (machine weighs 40kg!). hope this helps.

Bumpty bump bump, bump bump.

This was made by Gabriel Beyroux and probably would have been used for sailmaking. This is another of his machines. https://www.letelegramme.fr/finistere/concarneau/tresors-du-musee-2-de-la-couture-avec-la-comtesse-21-12-2014-10470249.php.

That was an accessory

Hi, This might clarify Chris..... and by the way, that is not in a 1000 quids worth of condition! If you click a couple of times on the picture you can see it closer up.

Nice one Kaiser. Yes, well spotted Folker. It has a shorter arm than the 335. You can see where the spring is on the arm?

That is what my machine gets, about 7mm max under the foot for working, if you go thicker than that then the tension spring starts to open. just as if you were lifting your foot up to release the tension, same idea. I think your machine lift had something similar Dikman?? it was raised higher??

I do not know anything about horse gear either i am afraid but i have Heard horse blankets stink and dirty up yer machine mate so i would get an old 45k (or equivalent) which usually go cheap and go from there?? just a thought. I dont think your patcher will hold up well for that work?? You see, way back in 1907 they were just 10 quid new! (arm and a leg! back then) and you could have picked it up from Glasgow yourself! jejeje.

Thanks for that Amuckart. I am sure the Pearson Nº6 fans will be delighted.

Hi Scoutmom, these guides are in the parts book for the singer 45k´s. The first one is Simanco and the other two from the Adler 4 or 5. The slot where the screw drops in on the Adler type is wider, so you can use the Adler on the Singer but you can´t use the Singer on the Adler. you can find them on Ebay from time to time, jimi.

not sure what ones you mean??

And very practical and no fuss for mounting. Just one screw and it stays solid for working. If you have the swing guide on then you use the same screw, and it leaves you room to put the standard guide back on again if needed.There were rectangular ones available also.

FORTUNA 3SE-RZ is your model number, here is a video unfortunately it is not in english but you can look up the net and find more sites that have the FORTUNA 3SE-RZ advertised. I think the type of machine is on the other badge. hope this helps.

http://www.fortuna-gmbh.de/filme/fortuna-schaerfen.mp4 Hi there, they usually have a number/letter code the normal type being 50S. if you look at the video you can see three additional settings apart from the first one, i am not 100% sure but it looks like they are doing toe puffs or similar for shoes which would probably need different types of skives so being able to jump from one to another saves time setting up manually. as long as you can adjust to make at least one type of skive then your ok. if i were you i would contact Fortuna GmbH and ask them for some info. if you tell them your S/N they can tell you the type of machine and year it was built etc.. if you send me your email i can send a copy of the manual in pdf. i think most parts on the bottom are the same. jimi.

Sorry for the late response chuck, we are a few hours of time difference. i imagined you had the assembly out ( i should have said the roller bracket arm). glad to hear you got it fixed. i reckon you were lucky you did not mess up your knife! looking at your picture it looks like you have the ejector inside the knife at the bottom?? according to the fortuna manual it should be approx 15mm from the edge. so if you move it forward remember its position when you take off the inside burr. I am not sure about your model but there is a small scraper option in the fortuna types that help scrape away any leather stuck to the wheel. i have found this very helpful not having any suction fitted.

wow chuck that looks like that metal is pretty weak?? when you install the new one i imagine you have the whole assembly out. tighten up the shaft for the new stone then make sure it turns freely but does not wobble or move front to back on the shaft, then position the feed shaft and hand turn your main shaft until the two pins fit in the end of the stone. hope that makes sense, if not i can send a picture. jimi.

Unfortunately a lot of them need adjusting and others just do not fit. They generally say it will fit the 29k but there were a few subclasses and variations and most of the older 29ks have no racks or piñons available that i know of. if you find any original not too worn parts for your 29k71, that would be the way i would go. good luck, jimi.

Have a look here paqman, i think you just need to find a second hand original shuttle carrier.

This was the part that stopped the snagging of the thread under the needle plate.

Hi Fin. I suppose you are talking about the round leather belt?? It measures approx 165cm long and 6mm diameter and is held together with the staple you see in the picture. They are about 3.50 on ebay i think?. The other picture shows the thread path on top if you were wondering and the small red arrow in the picture is pointing to the tip of the wire (the one for threading). If you can do something similar with an old piece of wire you could save yourself a couple of quid. if you could upload a picture Fin that would be helpful incase something is missing??

If you were wondering what the 50SAG means it stands for 50=feed roller size, S=setup for shoe industry type work, A= exhaust system and G= closed, it has the left side cover.

Thanks Paul