jimi

I would agree with Constabulary. these machines are not worth the bother as they are missing basically all of their parts. $150 each i would call that "DAYLIGHT ROBBERY."

Just turn the radio up louder

Very nice work, look´s great.

you are in too deep now bikermutt... i think you are an old iron junkie now...

I had to look twice about what you said! hehe. yes it is a hook..... i thought it was an anchor or something. i got these a while ago and wondered who had made them, now i know. thanks Folker. yes it is back to front this is the one i got for the pfaff and tried to use it with the 45k but it does not seem to like the 90º. and the original style binder for the 45k is very difficult to get working well. it likes to wander off to the side a lot. so i will have to look for one like yours which might let the leather feed better.

just right click on the image-edit-resize- click on pixels- change value to about half or less. should work.

Hey Folker, that looks really professional!! and it´s not SILVER . just kidding. i think you done the right thing with just touching up the chipped and worn areas. not easy to do with normal paint. but this turned out very good with that crinkle finish paint. could that binder work on the 45k?? where did you get it?? Again well done Folker, looks great.. is that anchor with MW for Claes/Textima??

well i would give it a try if you can pick them up cheap? we have some leather shears which were new old stock from a shop that closed in 1945. the maker is Otto Langenhahn (you can see faintly the stamp in the picture) OL who also made saddlers knifes etc.. I was told this was made with Solingen steel, i dont think they are stainless like the fishmongers scissors as there is rust on the handles. i can say they cut leather really well and as you can imagine they do not slip. to me they look just the same. i´ll cut some fins and you try some leather regards jimi.

I have not seen any like that before, that is why i wondered if it had been fixed?? never saw the lid with the screw in it either?? as long as it does the job then that is the main thing, right.

looks like it was brazed there?? or is it supposed to be a smooth transition??

Thanks pinker

nice one! so where does it sat flammery on it? I am about to pick one up for cheap but aint got a clue who has made it. it looks like the ball on yours has the screw on the lid instead of it being in the handle??

Aha so you got it? well sussed. I think the H3 might have a bigger foot lift on it, but mine is like yours with 6-7mm. that seems to be what it was designed for. if I get tough leather under it, the spoked hand wheel can´t handle it, it has to be soft. if I can change it one day for a solid one then I am sure it will go through a little tougher leather. I personally would leave it where it was supposed to be and use a bigger machine for thicker leather. ( just another excuse to get some more old iron ) glad you finally got that one fixed. now wash your hand´s because your coffee is cold AGAIN! . jimi.

just in case it still tangles underneath, that is what happened to my 29k171 and found that the shuttle race was the wrong size. the previous owner had fitted a new one which was too thick, thus not leaving enough room for the thread to pass under the needle plate causing the tangle up underneath. i changed it with a second hand simanco part and it work straight away.

Yes i think you are spot on don i sent a couple of pictures to dikman of mine and the foot rests on the take up lever when up, so it would probably be just slackening off the 2 screws to let it rest on the take up lever when raised.

Ok dikman. thanks gigi.

there was a page describing this somewhere but i cannot find it?? i am sure i saved it, somewhere?? i saw a pdf in German talking about various machines and there was an illustration of a 335 and it had lat lever on it, same as yours. seems like your machine is the same type dikman so i can´t see why that wont work for you?? could you send a close up of the back where the foot lifter is, that is where it pushes the rod?

here are a few pictures of the restoration of one that turned up..

Hi, well i have an old one and a broken nut on the back ( i should have bought one off of constabulary a while back!) and find it very difficult to find one. so if you are looking for a hand wheel also maybe you should try looking at compatible models with the same hand wheel. maybe the 541,144,144,142 models could have the same type hand wheel, but not 100% sure even then it might be difficult. you might be lucky and have the newer type which has the screw only and not the screw and nut. for a guide you would probably be better getting a swing down, kwoking i think it is called have nice ones. unless you have the small plate and screws which attach on the arm which is used for the guides etc.. possibly some models for that plate might swing a little away to the side?? screws are not metric (at least on mine). i think the easiest solution would be a swing down so you might have to drill and tap two holes in the back of the head. jimi. sorry just saw your machine above, yes you have the newer type hand wheel with the screw only to fix. if your hand wheel is massive and not spoked i dont know why you would need a bigger one?? Hey dikman, could you post a couple of pictures of the area where that rod goes?? front and back?

Have you thought about skiving and folding the edge instead?

Thanks for sharing that rockie. so is it divided in the middle with the lining?? one side for keys and the other for dosh?

Hi moggy, first of all could you post a picture of the 45k68. this model was for stitching soles up to 5/8" thick and came with a small needle plate and a two pronged feed dog (unless someone has changed things over??). here is the parts manual and some pictures of other machines, who know´s your´s might be i here already??

No offence intended of course.

Man that guy looks like uncle fester....

Hi there, here is a manual for your machine, sorry i don´t know much about the pfaff 30 but to me it says Domestic sewing machine. so that pretty much says for leather you´d be better off with a an industrial version like the 335 or so. but saying that it might handle some thin leather but as it is not made for that purpose i would expect the limit reached quite soon. for restoring i would wash down with warm water and natural soap with a cloth, then use a scotch pad or equivalent (not coarse) to just take of any rust, not going heavy. then i normally give a light coat of shellac to give a little shine to the old paint and further preserve any type of decals. as if you were doing some antique furniture restoring, with the ball of wool and rag. then just use it for what it was made for. i am sure it will last another 70 years no problem. https://dolfmeister.com/files/sewing_machines/pfaff_30-31.pdf