Basically Bob

... Give this metnod a try. Thread the needle. Twist the thread (long portion)to separate the cords and make a "hole" right next to the eye of the needle. Put the tag end through the hole . Twist the thread (long section) hard against the eye of the needle and rub the thread back towards you to work the wax in as best you can. Make sure that you load ip the ends of the thread heavily with wax. Not the published or traditional way of doing it but I find that it is quicker and that the thread holds on better for me.

Looks great! I like the rugged look, for sure. That being said, you really do need to get that slit right for the Sam Browne stud. Looking forward to seeing more of your work & thanks for sharing!

Looks great! Thanks for taking the time to share.

Sure. Volume one covers the basics: attaching hardware, shields and tabs, bckles , rivets and snaps, the correct way to attach belt loops. Knife sheaths, cheque book covers and a mote book cover. Volume two is more advanced with lots of info on the construction of various handles and installing zippers.brief cases, toiletry bags, book/bible covers etc.. Lots of info on the internet about all of Al Stohlman's books.

.... I should have explained a bit more. I use the Stohlman books, primarily as a reference for case construction techniques, loops, hardware attachment etc. but do not use the North American stitching style (grooving a stitch line).

Like Joe, I use Valerie Michael's book (The leatherworking Handbook) extensively for stitching info. I use Al Stohlman's techniques outlined in his "The Art of Making Leather Cases" Volumes one and two. Val Michael's techniques are in the "British" style which is my personal preference.

Yeah ... I like that!

Nice, Rohn!

Good work, Chief ... Nice 4-banger, too!

Like it a lot!

Looks great! I especially like the effort you put into the design.

Sweet!

LoyalNine, thanks! The leather is a little on the heavier side - 7 oz. i used it because I had a piece that was a little stiffer than norm and I thought it would suit this application well. I out the belt loop together using Al Stohlman's, case making, volume one as a guide and use his standards for everything I do, concerning hardware attachment and loops etc. Here's a pic - a little rough but it 'll get the job done!

Stitched at 7 spi and used a Dixon 1 1/2" pricking iron. I finally have the corners nailed and actually prefer to use the 1 1/2" iron rather than the 1/2" or two tooth iron I have. Finished with 7 spi overstitch wheel.

Dang ... I have no idea why the photos I post on this site or not oriented properly. Nor do I know how to fix it!

Thought you might like to take a look at these two molded cases.

Beautiful work!

You did a great job ... congratulations!

Interesting ... Trevor, those cases are awesome!

Sweet! You did a great job!

Good for you, Joe!

Wow! Looks great!

Looks great! I always find your work inspirational.

I really like the burst effect.

Here's the formula That works for me: Strap Length = Belt measurement - the buckle's inside diameter + fold-over (2 3/4") + 6" for the billet end Note that I space the holes 3/4" apart. If I understand your question correctly, I am adding 8 3/4" to the belt measurement. I would not want to use anything shorter but adding a bit certainly wouldn't hurt.