Basically Bob

Thanks for the input, Cyberthrasher ... will give that a go, later today, and will post pics and results.

Like most others, here on the forum, I have tried many methods to achieve a professional looking edge and thought that I would share my latest. Frankly, I am blown away at how quick and easy it is to get a really clean, polished looking finish using this technique. I think that the attributes of mink oil/pine pitch and bees wax would make for a durable edge, but perhaps there is something I am missing. If you find flaw with this, I sure would like your input. 1) Bevel edges 2) Burnish the front bevelled edge, lightly, without applying liquids. (thinking that leaving the top and back unburnished will allow the MPB to penetrate the leather better) 3) dye 4) Rub in Montana Pitch Blend leather dressing with fingers 5) Burnish the edge; front, back and top 6) Apply wax and burnish again Here is a quick pic of one of my samples. Natural veg tanned leather with the edge dyed black

Thanks, skeeter ... much appreciated.

A good friend of mine brought me a guitar strap that was given to him by a close relative, more than twenty years ago. It's a great piece but unfortunately is very uncomfortable to wear because the nature of mystery braid digs into his shoulder. Here's my solution: I put together a hand stitched and 18" shoulder strap that attaches to the original. I used 8oz. veg tanned leather with a 2 oz., supple horse liner. It is quite comfortable now!

Thanks for the input! I am on the same page as you in terms of customer satisfaction for years down the road, so I really do appreciate your willingness to share.

Cyberthrasher & Lady Eagle, this is a very timely topic for me. Cyberthrasher, I have been using neatsfoot oil with Leather Balm/Atoms wax on pretty much everything I do, but have been wanting to play around with different conditioners/finishes. Just received some MPB oil & conditioner and some MPB leather dressing. Do you use the oil and conditioner or the dressing? (on guitar straps) Also, I use Fiebings Professional oil dye - I have noted on the Fiebings web site that Resolene is an acrylic based product. Is it suitable for the Pro oil dye? I sure like the look and feel of the neatsfoot oil / Leather Balm w/Atoms wax combo but really do want a pro product and happy customers.

Looks good!

I normally dye, condition and finish leather prior to stitching. I have not had a problem with dye bleeding into the thread, but, like Matt, would suggest that you try it first.

Your work is beautiful. Thanks for sharing.

Wow! Inspirational, for sure. Love it!

Welcome Crafter. It's always nice to see another Canadian on the board. Not sure where you are located but if you are close to Hamilton, it would be worthwhile stopping in to see the folks at Tundra Leather. They are happy to share their amazing skills with you and are also involved with the Leather Workers' Guild.

Thanks for sharing that, Hunio. What I REALLY appreciate about your work is the skill you demonstrate in design and execution of the technical aspects of advanced leatherworking.

I would make the case tight. wrap the phone in saran wrap and dampen the inside edges of the case with a wetted cloth (just wet, not dripping wet) wrapped around a bone folder, or ruler (don't soak the leather, just dampen it). Next, jam the phone in the case. Let it sit like that until it is pretty much dry. If it is too tight after doing that, you could cut out a thin piece of cardboard the same size as the phone and wrap it in saran again, dampen the leather and jam that set up in the case.

Wow! You, sir, nailed that one! Great job and I hope you continue to share.

Looks really nice! Looking forward to seeing more of your work.

Nice work!

Thanks! Cyberthrasher, much appreciated. I was really having a tough time figuring out why my stitching on the back went "wonky" because normally it's pretty good (the worst of it isn't showing - LOL) . That being said, I have never stitched-up anything as long as a guitar strap - almost 100" of stitching. When I was on the second to the last thread run, I figured out what the problem was. It had to do with how I had the strap held in the clam (I use a Brit style stitching clam) Once I got that under control, it seemed to be not too bad. Bob

Just finished my first guitar strap. (ummm - or should I say, BASS strap - LOL) I used 8-10 oz. American tanned bridle leather. Pigskin for the lining. Hand stitched at 7 s.p.i. It was also my first attempt at stamping. Learned a few things for sure! I trimmed the pigskin and after I finished, I thought that I could take "just a little more off" - yikes - big mistake - cut into the strap. Can hardly wait to start strap #2! Thinkin' that black bridle is going to look pretty luscious beside the black pickguard on my custom fretless! :-)

A couple of things that I have found really helpful ... - burnish in the same direction that the leather was cut. You will know which direction is correct by rubbing a finger lightly over the edge of the leather - one direction is normally smoother than the other - that's the direction to burnish. - I get the cleanest lines by using good quality wool felt, cut in a strip, folded over and held in a wooden clothes pin - as illustrated in Al Stohlman's "The Art of Making Leather Cases (volume one). It also really helps to singe the fuzz off of the edge of the wool with a lighter. I prefer this over wool daubers. Here's the process I like: - lightly wet the edge and burnish. - dye -burnish - lightly apply gum trag -burnish -lightly apply leather balm and wax =burnish/polish I burnish, either with a piece of light canvas (cut from a painter's drop sheet) by hand or a canvas covered cylinder on my drill press. ... or both.

Hey, thanks Lou. Great job!

Sure looks good!

looks great! very clean and awesome stitching.

Thanks, eh!

I moved away from using a full size wallet several months ago and have been using a simple credit card wallet ... it's great! However, the downside is that I often end up with a bunch of loose bills/receipts floating around in my pocket. So ... here's a quick and simple solution. I hand-stitched this "Bill Slip" at 7 s.p.i. and used 3 oz. veg tan. Dyed, then applied neatsfoot oil and leather balm. It's hardly noticeable in my pocket and is a good companion to my credit card wallet. Bob

I like it a lot, especially the creativity with your tooling and stamping. The inside is pretty impressive too! Thanks for sharing. Bob