Basically Bob

3" straight strap designed to tie on the guitar just below the headstock. 6/7 oz veg exterior with a soft, 2/3 oz chap leather (horse) liner. Hand stitched at 7 spi with barbour 5/18 linen thread. I used 7/8 oz veg. For the shielded tail piece. This was so much easier than the custom cut, contoured straps I normally do.

I'm thinking that at 8 spi it would look pretty good. Be sure to post some pics Bob

Looks good to me, Joe and your stitching is just fine. Keep at it. Here's a quick pic of a credit card wallet that I made and have used daily for about a year. Stitched at 7spi, Dixon pricking iron, 5/18 barbour linen thread. Just thought you would like to see how the thread/spacing works. My apologies for the upside-down photo.

BigMatt, the best suggestion I can give you is to go to the Dyes, Antiques...subsection of the forums, and start searching, reading and then start making up sample pieces to try various techniques ro find what works best for you. I apply the dye, heavily, with a thin sponge and let it sit for 24 hours. Others dip-dye their work. Then I buff the heck out of it. Next, I apply neatsfoot oil, let it sit for 24 hrs and buff the heck out of it again. In terms of a finish and/or conditioners - again, read and try some. There are lots of different options and you are just going to have to experiment to find something you are comfortable with.

Sweet!

I really like the colouring on that strap! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks Tossik, The stitching traditional "British" style and since my stitching and assembly methods are heavily influenced by Valerie Michael's book, that's what I use. It takes a while to get comfortable with stitching the belt loop in but it gets easier after a while. I don't feel that it is the best way, but rather, just the method I have decided to use. In terms of dying the leather, I am quite comfortable with purchasing a pre-dyed product ... I don't buy belt blanks. Rather, I have my supplier cut strips 6" wide from a side for me and then I cut them to the appropriate width, depending on the customer's order. I like doing this because it gives me consistancy and the colour is stable so I don't worry about colour transfer.

Sweet!

Here's a photo of one, to show you the stitching.

A nice clean look, for sure. Here are some thoughts, perhaps ideas for you to consider ... (Not criticism) . I make plain belts with no tooling & buy "belting" that is colored on the back. No bleed from the dye. For a dress belt, i would finish the edges, including the loops. Rather than using rivets, I stitch the buckles on & use it as a selling feature.

Ditto to the comments above. That project is on my list of things to do, for sure.

... Give this metnod a try. Thread the needle. Twist the thread (long portion)to separate the cords and make a "hole" right next to the eye of the needle. Put the tag end through the hole . Twist the thread (long section) hard against the eye of the needle and rub the thread back towards you to work the wax in as best you can. Make sure that you load ip the ends of the thread heavily with wax. Not the published or traditional way of doing it but I find that it is quicker and that the thread holds on better for me.

Looks great! I like the rugged look, for sure. That being said, you really do need to get that slit right for the Sam Browne stud. Looking forward to seeing more of your work & thanks for sharing!

Looks great! Thanks for taking the time to share.

Sure. Volume one covers the basics: attaching hardware, shields and tabs, bckles , rivets and snaps, the correct way to attach belt loops. Knife sheaths, cheque book covers and a mote book cover. Volume two is more advanced with lots of info on the construction of various handles and installing zippers.brief cases, toiletry bags, book/bible covers etc.. Lots of info on the internet about all of Al Stohlman's books.

.... I should have explained a bit more. I use the Stohlman books, primarily as a reference for case construction techniques, loops, hardware attachment etc. but do not use the North American stitching style (grooving a stitch line).

Like Joe, I use Valerie Michael's book (The leatherworking Handbook) extensively for stitching info. I use Al Stohlman's techniques outlined in his "The Art of Making Leather Cases" Volumes one and two. Val Michael's techniques are in the "British" style which is my personal preference.

Yeah ... I like that!

Nice, Rohn!

Good work, Chief ... Nice 4-banger, too!

Like it a lot!

Looks great! I especially like the effort you put into the design.

Sweet!

LoyalNine, thanks! The leather is a little on the heavier side - 7 oz. i used it because I had a piece that was a little stiffer than norm and I thought it would suit this application well. I out the belt loop together using Al Stohlman's, case making, volume one as a guide and use his standards for everything I do, concerning hardware attachment and loops etc. Here's a pic - a little rough but it 'll get the job done!

Stitched at 7 spi and used a Dixon 1 1/2" pricking iron. I finally have the corners nailed and actually prefer to use the 1 1/2" iron rather than the 1/2" or two tooth iron I have. Finished with 7 spi overstitch wheel.