immiketoo

I tried that once, its a lot more complicated due to the precision needed for wet molding. Even the slightest error in the file can make the gun not fit. @Uwe, that is some cool shit right there. I want one of these devices but I worry that the learning curve on the software is too high.

I think the Sieck is probably fine. One thing I'd check is if its a single motor or dual motor, meaning does the bell spin at a constant speed. This makes a big difference in overall performance, but I think its only on the more expensive models. I am in the market for one of these in the next year or so, and I am debating this as well. I would opt for a new high end if the money is there, but if not, I'd opt for a new Chinese made model before I got an old anything.

I see a lot of people concerned that their leatherwork isn't as good as so and so's leather, or that they wish their tooling was better or their stitching, etc...In my travels both electronic and in person, I have seen a LOT of leather by different people. Some is fantastic, some is crap (more on that later) but a wide swath in the middle has the greatest variation and potential. Often, something catches my eye and makes me say WOW! Upon closer inspection, the tooling has flaws, or the stitching isn't perfect. Edges? Rough...but. The totality of the package makes me want to keep looking. The design, or the use of color or some intangible factors that combine to make a product that I would be proud to carry or use. Don't sell yourself short by comparing yourself to anyone else. I guarantee you these wow factors are selling like hotcakes because most people that aren't leatherworkers can't see the flaws anyway. I live in a high tourism country and I see all kinds of crap. Cheaply made, but made to look good. People buy it. Makes me cry, but such is life. I'm not suggesting that we shouldn't try to improve on the areas that need it, but be proud of where you're at. We ALL started somewhere and it usually wasn't good.

Alternatively, you could call Martin Sharnagl at Die Ledermacher. He carries Cobra Leather Machines in Europe, and they have excellent service. http://www.ledermacher.de

If the sieck is in your price range, I'd say go for a new machine. This design has been around for a long time, and I would suppose parts will be available as well. You could always buy some stock of the consumable parts and hope you guessed correctly. However, if you're considering a bell skiver, I'd say buy a good one even if you have to save for a while longer. Tough choice.

There are a lot of easier ways to close these and I suggested all of them. The customer wanted the lacing, so he got the lacing!

For me it depends on the size of the lettering. Larger then half inch, I cut. Smaller I only bevel.

Lol! Hey Bill, that one IS a tree branch. I ordered the very first Leather Wranglers SKV Britt Nantz collaboration knife. its the one that says MD on it in the middle. Paul and Britt sent me this knife as a joke after I ordered the other one. When I opened the box, I laughed my ass off. Surprisingly, it cuts very well, but only in 90 degree corners

You're welcome. Also, feel free to ask me any questions you might have about tooling or whatever. I am happy to help.

Sadly, that's not even all of them. Somehow I keep ending up with more.

One of the first things I learned (the hard way) was patience and letting things dry completely. It sucks to have to wait but then there are no issues down the road.

Thanks man...He does think its cool! I am particularly fond of the padding. Craft foam...who knew!

That is actually a cool idea. The only issue I have is if it will scratch your leather. Sometimes I tool a lined piece so the smooth side would be damaged by the paper. I use the lead weights described above.

Retail spaces are money pits. If it were me, I would ask for guaranteed revenue for displaying their product in my retail space since they have a requirement. You should too

Sorry for the hijack! Yes paid content can be contentious topic to some. The reality is this. Its all out there for 'free' if you're willing to spend the time to search for the good stuff and money to buy the books where all the free information is. Then, you need to apply that reading or viewing to leather. What I can tell you is this. Take Al Stohlman's figure carving finesse book. I bought it year one. 20 bucks at Tandy. I read it. I tried the techniques. My carving looked nothing like Al's. Then I practiced for a year. Read it again and I was amazed at how much more I got out of the book when I had more experience. Then I read it again a year later and again another year later. Each time I got more and more out of it because I had grown as a tooler. Now, take into account that not everyone has the time or resources to follow that path. There are wonderful tutorials here, and I have learned from them as well, along with solid advice from the members here. The paid part is where the instructors I use have decades of experience in their respective areas of expertise. Many of them are Stohlman award winners or industry leaders in their own right. They are professionals. Each of them can distill their years of experience into highly focused segments where you the viewer gets exactly what you need to help you make that next jump that took them years to figure out. Sharing what we have learned is essential for the craft to grow and flourish. I probably have 15 private conversations with people on FB or LW at any given time where I am sharing information specific to their needs. I don't mind at all. However, to do a comprehensive video on a topic that takes an hour to an hour and a half requires a considerable amount of work. As an example, the video I shared above is like 15 minutes, but the processing took an hour or more. The longer the class, the more work it is to edit and process. There will always be folks who don't want to pay for knowledge. That's ok. There are many paths to enlightenment, as they say.

Welcome.

One of my customers had a severe injury to his arm. Shattered the wrist and forearm bones, and now, even though he has had surgery to repair it, he has increased sensitivity to touch. He asked for an armguard that would protect him from bumps and scrapes that we take for granted. This is a lined piece with a foam layer in the middle provide added absorption to impact.

Incidentally, here is the finished piece from above.

Its funny you mention that. I actually have a website with a video class on lettering. www.learnleather.com. Its not free, but the prices are reasonable and there is a TON of good content about carving. Here is one of the free videos I have done. Please check it out...

So now that I am on my computer an not my phone, I see that Bob said the same thing I did. Sorry Bob! You're right on and I don't mean to take anything away form what you said.

I can’t wait to find out. Those look cool.

I’m glad you asked this. Lettering is a specialty of mine. Yours are quite good so far but you can make them better. The good: clean beveling, even spacing and the thickness and serifs are consistent throughout your lettering. you asked about what bevelers to use. I use a variety depending on the look I want, but the ones in the picture are the main go-to for all letters. They are steep bevelers and figure bevelers and their sizes allow me to make crisp impressions no matter the size of the font. For you, I’d suggest you invest in a good modeling spoon or a set of figure bevelers. Right now, yours look like they’re pushed down into the leather. As if you put a heavy weight on a soft pillow. The spoon can remove the bevel ridge and make the letters appear to sit on top of the surface of the leather. Figure bevelers further this appearance by compressing the surrounding leather smoothly. top pic: lettering done as described pic two: figure bevelers pic three: Peter Main modeling spoons pic four: my main lettering tools. Steep, figure and checkered bevelers

What you're seeing there is called a beveling ridge. This one is done well and smoothly and it makes a nice 3D feature in the carving. The type of beveler makes all the difference. This looks like a standard beveler from Tandy (No idea about the number, sorry), but you can achieve this effect with a steep beveler from Barry or any of the other makers. I t will be easier with a larger beveler so that you minimize tool marks. Its possible its been done with a push beveler, but I don't have one of those, so I can't say for certain. The leather does not need to be excessively thick. This could easily be done in 6 oz leather with the right combination of tool/leather.

Considering I have more SK than any sane person should have, if I had to choose just one barrel I would be in a quandary because there are so many good ones. Leather wranglers are works of art, Barry King are solid work horses and you can't go wrong with a Henley. Also, Ed LaBarre, Gordon Andrus and Robert Beard make excellent knives. More important than the barrel is the blade. This comes down to experience and the style of carving you like, but I can tell you that when I switched from my starter Tandy knife to one of the makers listed above, my whole world changed. I could do things I didn't think were possible. I was able to control my cuts like never before. The combo of a properly fit knife and a good blade cannot be overstated.

Thank you. I put a lot of thought into creating textures. Whether its with my backgrounding, beveling or features on figure carving, I find that subtlety with lectures can often be more convincing than heavy handed tool marks. For example, many folks use a mules foot to create scale effects and they pound them in deeply. A light touch that just leaves the shape of the tool in the leather is all you need to create a convincing effect. Snakes don't have deep gouges between their scales.