Red Cent

http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/leather-needles.pdf

My Fiebing's mahogany is almost black. Nice looking dye job and holster.

I have turned to the keyhole look. I put a bigger hole on the ends, then use the 20 ton press. This allows the holster to flex rather than have two 90 degree turns as the belt is going in and coming out. To me it makes a pancake a lot more comfortable to wear and uses less belt.

. "The recommended needle size is a #24 or #26. The larger eye is necessary because of the large diameter of the thread." http://www.superiorthreads.com/superior-bonded-nylon-277/ "277 top and 207 bobbin use a #25/200 needle" http://ferdco.com/content.php?page_id=27 "Hey all. There is a needle and thread reference guide in the back of the instruction book. It will tell you what size needle, and thread to use for many different thicknesses and applications. It is nothing written in stone because of the variances in leather, but it is a good starting point. Steve"

That be the only reason? And how is it working out for you? No issues with anything at all from customers on prior builds? None that I know of. And I have made a lot for locals and I would think the word would get back to me. And there is a bunch scattered around the United States. Nylon or polyester have their pros and cons. From what I have read and learned they are about equal other than the poly seems to be more supple.

Looks very good. Bet I can beat you to the draw :).

Reading some of this and it occurs to me who is making what kind of holster. I cut leather, glue, finish the edges, and then sew the peripheral leather edges leaving the main seam unsewn. When I finish the main seam, the stitch line goes all the way around. Laying flat, I use the table. Main seam, the holster has teardrop shape so I remove the table to get 90 degree stitches. And the main seam consists of two layers of 8-9 and two layers of 6-7. I don't use welts. Don't like them. Back when I knew -0- about the C4, I was having problems. Skipped stitched, crows nest, and the like. DirtClod said go polyester. Ain't looked back.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=western+style+1911+holsters&qpvt=western+style+1911+holsters&qpvt=western+style+1911+holsters&qpvt=western+style+1911+holsters&FORM=IGRE Back when, they carried the 1911 with a mag inserted only. They would rack the slide on the draw. This is called condition II. Condition I is cocked and locked. There is a condition III. Mag in, round in chamber cocked but not locked. Yikes! If the user has some years cuddling up to a 1911, he is probably OK. I have carried a 1911 for 40+ years in Condition I. IMO, there ain't no other way to carry it. Forgot to tell a fellow WV that looks real good.

no, no, not that one!!

So I finally got my first sewing machine. A cobra class 4 premium package. I do mainly holsters and belts and was wondering about setting up the machine and if anyone had any tips. Do you use the holster plate at all or the roller guide? If so what advantages are there to it and is there any tricks to setting it up? What size stitches work best? Also what needles and thread weight? Do you play with any of the tensions depending on leather weight? Sorry for the noob questions but this is the first sewing machine I have ever used and want to get started off right, thanks. I do not use the holster plate nor the table when sewing a holster. Because of the 8-9 and a liner of 6-7 and no skiving, it will not lay flat. I started not using the roller guide on belts but you it faithfully now. Rarely use it otherwise. Schmetz #25, 277 polyester top and 207 polyester bottom. The tension adjustment discussions on here are varied and many. Your machine should be good to go as is. Un fortunately, there are many Type A personalities here and we cannot leave well enough alone.

Chuck has passed, quietly in his sleep. This was seen on Cas City. http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,57395.0.html

When did you start using white thread :)? Very clean and neat. Great job.

I have a drill press and a cheap milling vise. I took a dowel rod, drilled a hole as close to center as I could, and inserted a bolt and nut. Then placed the tail of the bolt into the drill press, clamped a coarse file in the milling vise and "evened out" the dowel rod. Then I took a couple different sizes of rat tail files and cut the grooves. Sand paper as next.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=western+holster+for+the+semi+auto&qpvt=western+holster+for+the+semi+auto&qpvt=western+holster+for+the+semi+auto&qpvt=western+holster+for+the+semi+auto&FORM=IGRE

I use a vacuum to mold the outer in making a pancake holster. I have found that I can "kick" the grip out when I mold and when sewed tight will remain that way. And I can make the grip kick in to touch the body. By kick I mean rotate in or out. Not kick the grip in and the barrel comes out. It will depend upon the attitude of the gun positioned in the leather. First, I always elevate the gun about 1/2" with a thin piece of plastic under the gun. I also use "chocks" to get the right attitude/position that I want. Second, it depends heavily on a tight to the gun stitch. I always wet mold and make a gun fit rather than drop in.

This will clean that off in a few minutes. New blade, take it easy. As it dulls, go for it. https://www.etsy.com/listing/178142232/safety-beveler-leather-skiver-3001-00

Depends on the type of leather and what the owner does to the leather. Just recent, a good customer comes in with a ccw gun belt I made him. Natural look with finish, two ply 8-9 ounce machine sewn. The buckle was almost falling off the belt held by threads. Leather was in small chunks. He asked me to repairit. I asked him to come in about three days. Made him a new one free and he disclosed he used NF oil on it regularly. Soggy, chunk, mess. No more NF oil. Our SASS holsters are worn about two or thee times a week for about 4-5 hours. In a day of six stages, we draw and holster each gun one time each. 90 degrees to -0- degrees, sometimes in the rain, sleet, and or snow. Add in the hundreds if not thousands of times we dry fire practice at home. Figure that out over five years. And the holsters and belts will still be going strong. We wipe them down with NF oil once a year. Lightly. I still have holsters from my IPSC life and that was thirty years ago. Look through some pages of Packin' Iron and you will find holsters that are 100 years old.

Reminds of the SASS argument. We dress as if we live in the 1870s. We are required to use guns patented on or before 1899 (or close to it). Certain calibers are required. But we use gun carts that have places for battery fans. Ice coolers with soft drinks and water. Umbrellas affixed to the cart. And............. I got into leather making for the satisfaction of creating a product that meets my standards. I really don't want to have the pressure of loads of customers. As a retired banker, I have had enough of pressure for a lifetime. Most of my stuff is built for the speed demons but I do own a copy of Packin' Iron. I certainly appreciate all of the leather makers of the past. However, when I enter my shop I turn on a bunch of lights with a switch. My burnisher is motorized. My belt sander is also. Dremel tool is handy. Drill press is also. Propane torch. Heat gun...................................... You cannot get away from it. Gallatin, Meanea and Collins did very functional and beautiful work but they did it without the modern conveniences.

I come close to the Chief. I cut a piece of leather with a tad to spare. I orient the piece on the firearm until I like it. Soak in water, let it be for a while, then use a food vacuum machine to mold. Then sunshine, flood lamp, or the oven. I shape cut the front until I like it, then cut a back to fit. I turn the back piece skin lookin' at ya, and add a 3-4 ounce skin showing to the back.

I believe that Sheridan Leather buys from Thoroughbred Leather in Louisville, KY. They are on facebook. RJF Leather out of NY also buys from Thoroughbred Leather. There is a member or three here that buys from Thoroughbred Leather.

One can use the above item and produce as many "fronts" as long as they don't run out of vacuum bags. I do mine in the evening and take them out in the morning. Place them in the sun or in front of a fan and they will be ready to construct that afternoon. They will be very stiff. I then cut everything away that does not look like a holster, cut the back piece to match, glue, and sew. Might die in there somewhere.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/IVATION-Vacuum-Sealer-Pro-Black/48554621

outstanding.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Duncansoutdoor has some odd stuff that others don't have. Couple bucks more and made from aluminum (I think).