johnv474

I know someone who bought one of these for $400 in as-is condition from an auction and felt he got a good buy, working or not. The person I know who owns one (bought new, well over $1000) says he loves it and keeps finding new uses for it. I'd say you got yourself a safe investment as well as a potentially extremely useful machine!

It's worth noting that any side or double shoulder will have some area of waste, though. A butcher mark on the front/back, or an open wound or hole will mean you have to skip that section. Additionally, any cutting error (such as the strap cutter sliding even after tightening) will lead to loss. I'd say it's fair to say that you'd have $5 in leather for a belt blank selling for $7.25 or so. If your need for belts/straps is such that they can be cut across the spine (such as cheaper straps used on light bags like tote bags), then double shoulders are usually cheaper for the area than sides. Where I work we cut blanks, and find we make a little extra when sold as a blank than as the leather itself, not a whole lot of difference. Weaver sells some nice blanks and the prices on some are good, but you'll get the occasional very short one.

This message is older, but I didn't see any replies. In case you're still searching, you would be safe getting the Osborne 144-43, which is just a regular awl handle with the awl already inserted. That size awl is good for up to, say, 6 cord linen thickness. If you want a removable awl there are lots of them, even by Osborne. I'm partial to the ones with brass on the end with crossed slits that unscrew without needing a key. I don't know the number. For awl size, look at something roughly 2-3 times as wide as the thread you use. I use the smallest Osborne awl, one size up, and two sizes up for everything I do. I'll add that you can still use stitching chisels, just do a couple layers at a time max, then line up the holes using needles or straightened paper clip wire.

The Osborne line 24 snap setter is inexpensive, though only made for that one snap size. If you shop around you can find them for about $8.

With a few minutes of research, it appears it works out this way: 1) 125 = rubber cement. Sticks to many materials, but without much strength. Used for holding pieces together temporarily before sewing. Easy to reposition pieces if needed. 2) 440 = all-purpose contact cement that sticks to just about anything, including "slick" stuff like PVC/vinyl. High strength, flexible, probably the most expensive of the three options, because of the ability to be used almost universally. Do not expect to be able to reposition once stuck. This would be strong enough to hold shoes together without sewing. 3) 949 = all-purpose contact cement, highly strong and flexible. Suitable for leather, wood, metal, just about anything EXCEPT plastic / vinyl / PVC. This would be strong enough to hold shoes together without sewing, if there is no vinyl included. Do not expect to be able to reposition materials once stuck. Probably the best bang for the buck. All three of these require good ventilation while being applied. The not-very-healthy solvents evaporate while they cure, and after that they are no problem. I'm not certain I have these details exactly right. The above is based on the MSDS, reviewing data from the company that private labels these for Abbey, and experience with other adhesives in the marketplace. I use a neoprene contact cement for nearly all projects, and a latex-based white glue (not listed above) for small craft type projects where ease of cleanup and nontoxic use takes priority over maximum strength.

Martyn, I wanted to say your earlier answer didn't sound flippant. Each of us has been eager to learn these skills, with a thousand questions, and an answer like yours helps to focus on the next few steps. CMiner30, to go along with Martyn's suggestions let me mention that you can make some nice belts that are made of one piece of very nice leather. The stitching is then done in strategic/necessary locations (near the buckle and loop), but because it is done by hand it really stands out. Don't get me wrong, I applaud your high aspirations, but a belt that is nicely finished front and back, with a nice crease alone the entire edge, and nicely burnished edges can be a belt that looks finer than most people regularly see. Don't be afraid to start with simple designs done well--they are classics. When you have completed one your are proud of, feel free to post it in the Show Off forum... and welcome to the hobby! -JV474

Leather: 1) most belts end up 7-10 oz total. Depending on your core, this could be a layer of 2-3 oz and a layer of 6-7 oz, or, more simple, two layers of 4-5 oz. 2) A thinner exterior will seem softer, yes, but thicker leather is more durable. I don't know what kind of core you hope for, but a simple nylon strap between two pieces of leather will prevent stretchn if that's the goal. Stitching: 1) Waxed linen is the traditional luxury thread, but many fine goods are made with synthetics as well. A popular option is the Ritza 25 a.k.a. Tiger Thread. There are many others. Fil Au Chinois or Lin cable are a very fine thread, and very expensive. They look very nice, however. 2) Expect it to take about 5-15 seconds per stitch, once you get the hang of it. 5 seconds would be fast, and with pre-punched holes. A 36" waist belt would be approximately 46" total length, and there is stitching down both sides, so just shy of 100" of stitching. A handsewn belt takes a long time. 3) Firmer leather is easier to stitch a straight line on if you are stitching by hand. Something like English Bridle leather is about the ultimate in leather for luxury and fine belts. Finishes: 1) A wax protective coat, such as shoe polish, will help protect the leather. Resolene, an acrylic finish, is a popular sealer as well. There exist many others, but you probably will want to try using a combination of those somewhere along the way. The fastest hand sewer I know can stitch a belt from end in under an hour, once needles are in hand. However, and this is a major point, this is using wide stitch spacing and the holes have already been made (and not included in that time). It could easily take a person most of a day. Hence, the pricing of handsewn belts. Equus Leather has some very nice videos on Youtube, which gives an idea of what goes into making a handsewn luxury men's belt.

It looks like these may be located in NC. It might be difficult to put together a complete inventory, because it looks like there is a lot!

I use a horsehair inking brush, which looks like a toothbrush. It is intended for applying dressing/ink to the edges of dress heels. I put a small amount on the brush and then I use the EDGE of the bristles, not the ends. That way, the dye doesn't flick. I usually set the piece I'm applying dye to on the work table and tilt forward and back so it's steady.

I have had some success using a military wool blanket cut into strips. It's just under 1/4" thick and 80% wool 20% nylon or thereabouts. I found them (new) for about $30 in charcoal and navy at the local military surplus place. I do not mean the itchy old green kind.

It is beyond dispute that the saddle stitch predates any of those people, though no one said otherwise. Opinions are, likewise, beyond dispute. Are slanted stitches created by machine superior to straight stitching done by hand? We all could imagine that such a discussion would quickly lead to a fruitless, but very vocal, dead end.

Here's a quick, dirty way to make one. Mark a strip long enough for the outside (any length will do, as you'll see. Mark along the edge an additional strip 1/2" wide, and 1/2" longer than the strip for the sides. Form circle, baseball stitch, or however you want to stitch. Glue smaller strip inside the outside walls along the bottom with the grain side facing the center of the cup. Sew in place. This forms a "shelf". Trace outside of cup onto a piece of leather with your scratch awl. Cut it out, slightly inside your line (1/8" or so). This is your cup bottom. Put glue along the top of the "shelf", glue bottom in place. I use this to make small leather trays for D-rings, buckles, etc. The sides are about 2-3" tall in that case, and the base is the rectangular with well rounded corners (like glass burnisher, which I often use as my template--that, or lids to small plastic food storage containers). They use little leather, are good practice, and look way better on a shelf than plastic containers.

My understanding is this: The British and European school of saddle stitching has the angled stitches, popularized in part by Nigel Armitage's (excellent) videos on Youtube. Hermes is credited with "inventing" or putting a name to this method. This style also tends toward higher spi (7-9+) and finer holes/thread, a la Blanchard. The American/Western style of stitching has flatter/straighter stitches, a la Stohlman's instructions. Examples by katsass, among others here on the forum, illustrate this. This style tends toward lower spi (5-7), bigger holes and thicker thread. Neither school of thought is inherently superior to the other, and the strength of either is not terribly different. I personally prefer slanted stitches visually.

You may need to try making a full-size model tote from thick posterboard. Then cover the posterboard with paper and tape until you get the shape you want. Then cut the tape and you will have templates for your leather. This tote appears to be a structural material wrapped in fabric or printed leather.

I do not use an airbrush but have had some success with stamping the letters, then rolling on Resolene with a rubber roller (no nap), which then serves as a resist for the higher surface only, then using dye and a small brush to dye letters, and then outlining the letter impressions with a Uni-ball 207 pen (the one with the special ink). The ink line helps to make the letters look crisper. There are a range of colors so one can be chosen to minimize/maximize contrast in the outline.

If you mark your stitch line in the bottom round piece (or put a groove), you can then mark off that stitch line with a dot for each hour mark of a clock face, then an extra dot halfway between. If you do this, then you will have a set stitch mark every 3 stitches or so. It's easier visually to approximate dividing that smaller space into 3 when stitching. If I were doing it I would want to pierce the surface of the bottom piece after laying out my (slightly narrower) stitches on it. I mean pierce such as with a pushpin, just to break the surface. Since it's the densest part of the leather, you don't want to need much pressure to push your awl through. You definitely want to read Stohlman's book (among others). It is a very handy reference that can help you figure out ways to do such challenging tasks. By the way, the box stitch and round box stitch (like you are doing) are among the most difficult stitching to do in leatherwork, so bravo for taking it on.

If you still have issues with cracking, wet the leather with water than has a little Dawn dish soap in it. It can be formed ahead of time this way, or afterwards. When I say "wet" I mean use a damp sponge several times and let the water soak in like you were casing it... I do not mean sopping wet and do not mean trying to bend it within minutes of moistening it. That and a cobbler's hammer will help.

Nearly anything that applies moisture will slightly darken the leather because, for example, damp cardboard is darker than dry. That said, I would use dubbin or Sno-Seal or Huberd's Shoe Grease, and just expect to let them sit a few days before delivery. They darkness/splotches that can occur disperse, very slowly, as the material spreads throughout the leather. If a shiny finish is appropriate, then Resolene (diluted) can provide a good layer of protection in addition to the above. This undyed leather had water, Lexol, Dubbin I think, a cream Polish, Huberd's, and neutral Polish applied. It's still quite blonde (but was not at first!). Ignore the reddish edge kote that I overapplied.

Are you hoping to maintain that "untouched" patina look, or would it be okay to look like a refreshed original? If the saddle is solely for display you will have more options, but if you sell it I would suggest being upfront about it having needed that type of repair. There is no way to erase the tear, but you can get it to still look nice and, possibly, functional for limited use. 1) Clean. Start by cleaning it with saddle soap or Lexol leather cleaner, following the instructions on the tin. Then, apply some Lexol conditioner to it. This is to help moisturize the leather again and to slow the drying that led to the original tear. 2) Repair. One option would be to try to apply fiberglass underneath the saddle and above the metal. I think this would be terribly messy, but it could theoretically work. I would go another route. To me, ideally, you would slip a layer of material underneath the tip of the saddle, above the metalwork and beneath the leather. This layer is to reinforce the part of the leather that weakened/spread the adhesion area so the adhesive is more likely to work. One option would be a thin piece of strong leather (goat, kangaroo, or thin vegetable tanned cowhide), with holes/slits made to allow for slipping around the rivets... assuming you don't want to replace the rivets. The holes/slits will apply to about any of these options. Another option as a reinforcement would be a piece of nylon webbing or polypropylene webbing, such as used on backpacks. Another option would be to buy a pair of small dress shoes from Goodwill and cut out the back of the shoe that goes around the heel. Some shoes have a thin plasticky material that the liner/leather is glued to to help the back of the heel stay in shape. A woman's shoe may be your best choice, sizewise. Another option is to wet form a small piece of rawhide (e.g. Dog treat), which, when dry again, is quite strong. It should probably be lacquered after doing this to protect it from moistening/softening again. Another option is to use a heat-formable plastic like Kydex, as used in holsters, or the tip of another newer disposable bike seat, for that matter.. Lastly, you could get away with a thin strip of metal, such as stainless steel or brass (so that it doesn't discolor the leather over time). I would recommend one of these backers if you are willing to do that, as it will improve your chances of success. In any case, you then want to apply a clear contact cement to both the backer and the underside of the leather. Preferably, the cement (e.g. Barge Clear Toluene-Free Cement, Master All-Clear Cement) will be thinned with the appropriate thinner. Whether or not thinned, apply a very thin coat to both the backer and the underside of the leather, likewise for the two edges of the tear. Let them all dry entirely without touching. The logistics of that will be up to your creativity. If you can't figure out any other option, use a thin strip of vinyl to keep the two layers separated (because those cements do not stick to vinyl well). After both layers have dried entirely, apply another thin coat to the same areas and let them dry for several minutes, until sheen of the cement has faded from looking "wet" to looking kinda dry. Now, the moment of truth. Press the leather tear back together and, in one movement, also press the leather down onto the backer, starting from the top center and working down to the edges to avoid bubbles/bumps. Press and hold with the palm of your hand for thirty seconds or so. It should hold well enough for you to let go after that. Now, walk away and come back tomorrow. Don't test the adhesive. Let it cure overnight. 3) Condition. Get the entire saddle moist by applying a sponge that is damp with clean water. While the leather is damp, apply Lexol conditioner again to the entire saddle. Then, apply a leather balm such as Rudy's Bee Natural, or a little Dubbin, or any of the other liquid or balm leather lotions. 4) Waterproof. This is optional. If you like, now apply waterproofer such as Huberd's or Sno-Seal, following the directions. 5) Cream Polish. Apply some self-shining shoe cream Polish (in neutral, or Mid-Tan or the color you prefer). Tarrago Self-Shining shoe cream is quite good. Meltonian shoe cream is also good. Lightly brush with with horsehair brush. Where the seam was, be generous with the cream Polish to act as a bit of a filler. 6) paste wax. I like Lincoln but Kelly's and Kiwi are also good. Shine the seat like you were shining shoes. Apply a little extra to where the tear was, as filler. Ideally, this will be several thin layers. Neutral has no pigment, others do, so choose the one you prefer. Brush/buff. 7) Seal. Use Resolene, diluted 50:50 with water and apply a few thin coats with a sponge or light brush, avoiding brush marks. 8) Optional: a spray shine like Quick Shine 48 or Meltonian Super Shine, just for that extra touch before putting it on display. By now, the saddle should be beautiful. As to its value as a collectible, I have no idea what reconditioning does to resale value. The above is the most professional-level repair I know of.

Do you have these for sale? Do you have these for sale?

I can't point you to specifics but you might want to look at figure carving instead of western carving. Also, I find that some of the older ornamentation like shields and crests are more interesting than stupid flowers, even though they might have vines and stuff in them. I believe that Stohlman and Burnett each have books addressing figure carving.

Tiger thread is quite nice. There are alternatives that are nice and may be easier to find in the US. Maine Thread (waxed polycord that is twisted not braided) comes in a range of colors at thickness of .020" (0.5mm), 0.025" (0.63mm), 0.030" (0.75mm), all the way up to 0.05" (1.3mm or so). Also, Corus braid (nylon poly braid, unwaxed) comes in white and black 1 lb spools at a 1.0mm width. I recently found Atwood rope makes a thread that is 0.75mm braided unwaxed, and also a 1.2mm version. The 1.2mm version appears to have a core, but the 0.75mm did not. I bought their bright orange 1.2mm ad glow-in-the-dark 0.75mm, waxed, and tried them. These are not specifically for sewing and I found the 0.75mm did not lie as nice as Tiger thread or Maine thread, but testing is early. I just thought glow-in-the-dark thread was novel. Look at army-navy type stores for those threads. Tiger thread is quite nice. There are alternatives that are nice and may be easier to find in the US. Maine Thread (waxed polycord that is twisted not braided) comes in a range of colors at thickness of .020" (0.5mm), 0.025" (0.63mm), 0.030" (0.75mm), all the way up to 0.05" (1.3mm or so). Also, Corus braid (nylon poly braid, unwaxed) comes in white and black 1 lb spools at a 1.0mm width. I recently found Atwood rope makes a thread that is 0.75mm braided unwaxed, and also a 1.2mm version. The 1.2mm version appears to have a core, but the 0.75mm did not. I bought their bright orange 1.2mm ad glow-in-the-dark 0.75mm, waxed, and tried them. These are not specifically for sewing and I found the 0.75mm did not lie as nice as Tiger thread or Maine thread, but testing is early. I just thought glow-in-the-dark thread was novel. Look at army-navy type stores for those threads.

I have used Saddle Lac but not Neat Lac or equivalent. The Saddle Lac gives a nice sheen and finish. In my limited use it was great for projects that did not need much flexibility (cases, art) but cracked when highly flexed (shoes, bag flaps).

Wet the leather and let it dry repeatedly. Or, hot wax it. Or harden it with hot water (look up cuir boulli).

"FYI, Barnsley burned down years ago and is no longer in business. Hale and Company sells some old Barnsley stock it has at extremely high prices. A Barnsley edge beveler never was ever worth or sold by Barnsleyr $200. The best edgers available now are those made by Bob Beard, Bob Douglas, Barry King, Ron's Tools, Weaver Leather, C.S.O., Vergez Blanchard,and Jeremiah Watt. None of these even approach the century mark as far as price goes." Thanks for this added information. Sometimes higher prices do not correspond to higher quality. I have only heard positive things about the toolmakers listed, and look forward to upgrading to some of theirs when I outgrow what I own. So far my best quality of best deals have been well-used tools older than I am.