toxo

The middle parts of the belts are missing! Just kidding. Some really good work there.

Not my style but well done.

So you had an unfinished bag and you chose to go on holiday instead! I'm astonished.

Me too. If you want some inspiration for a leather one there's a couple of designs on Etsy with patterns if you need em.

Moto is there a reason why you didn't join the two zips as in this pic of my Pitch Doctor bag? Also shows one way of avoiding the gap although I'm not a fan of velcro and the flap should be the other way round to shed rain rather than inviting it in.

Borrowed from a facebook group.

Just arrived today and I have to say, after a quick play, I'm optomistic that it'll do what I want it to do which is edges. It is temperemental but that's a given when you're using thin double sided razor blades. Veg tan is easiest but with care I managed to get some very soft 1mm down to under .3mm but need to develop a technique because of the stretch. The biggest downside for me is changing the blade. you will break blades, especially when practicing and undoing a set screw each time gets old quickly. I can see a small pair of mole grips in it's future. Might do a little video later.

Check out this video from Geordie leather. Especially from 7:37mins in. I got one of these magnets. Works a treat but won't pull the cutter out. Probably would if I soldered a cutter to the magnet but I just want one offs so won't do that. A stronger magnet could be better with solder/tack weld. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strong-Magnets-30x20x5-mm-Neodymium-Block-craft-magnet-30mm-x-20mm-x-5mm-N42-Bar/182942145946?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=690259429188&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I bought this box of cutters. Most of which could be used to fashion into what you need. I'm assuming you have an arbor press or similar else probably won't be cost effective against having one made but then most tools aren't. Just a thought. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-39-Shape-Style-Hole-Hollow-Cutter-Punch-Set-for-Handmade-Leather-Craft-DIY/372848601203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641660429125&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Can't remember now. locally I think but I'm in the UK. Look for a Taperlock V pulley and a Taperlock bush (15mm I think, I'll have to check) but that was for my Durkopp. You'll need the bush that fits your machine. It's a simple job and I have to say finding and using the handwheel now whilst working is easier and it has more torque . Here's what they look like.. http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/v-belt-pulleys/?pulley_pitch=24133 http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/taperlock-bushes/?bush_series=24274 Can't remember why I went with 170mm OD, bigger equals slower. The pulley on my Jack servo motor is around 74mm OD (55mm ID). I have smaller pulleys that I would've tried but the Jack shaft is smaller. With the needle positioner and practice I can do one stitch almost all the time.

Great idea Folker. I'll have to make one of those. Won't be as pretty as yours but will do the job. I think magnets have lots of uses in sewing. I have one beneath the top laminate on my Durkopp table and it's invaluable to catch those itty bitty screws that normally fall on the floor. Do all tables have one of these?

Don't know if there's a special reason for installing one of these but I always think there are easier things to try first. I replaced the handwheel on my old Durkopp with a 170mm pulley and I can do one stitch at a time. The handwheel is just propped up there for perspective.

Excellent work. Something to aspire to.

It's not supposed to release until you've finished sewing. Get the stitches right first. Like I said once you've done that you should be able to release the thread by jiggling the hand wheel.

Absolutely not. The video shows it's working correctly. If you put everything back the way it was in the first video, tighten up the top tension knob and sew something. The first Pic shows it sewed something it just lacked top tension. As a rough guide to the needle thread issue, the needle should slide down the thread when holding the thread taut at 45 degrees.

I've told you there's nothing wrong with the machine . It's almost identical to my Durkopp 239. It took me a long time to realise it's not just one thing. You have to get the needle size right for the thread you're using then you have to balance the tension between the top and bottom adjusters. The presser feet have to be the right height. The hook has to arrrive at the thread/needle at the right time. If any of these are not right it won't work properly.

Without knowing the application or the strength required I can only suggest. If it's just a one off then maybe find some tube of the right diameter and solder/braze to one of those hooks and paint it or nickel plate it (youtube vids will show how) .

Looks like the plate is the wrong way round. The two plates should touch in the center not the outside. Put everything back the way it was when you did the sewing. Tighten up the tension and you'll be good to go. When you've finished sewing use the knee lift. If it doesn't release the thread then jiggle the hand wheel until it does. If this works it's probably the height of the presser foot that's the problem. Goodnight.

Yes. The way you had it in the video was correct.

No. Why have you done it differently to the way you did it in the earlier video? It doesn't go over the pin.

I don't remember how but I remember the height of the presser foot made the problem go away for me. I feel like I'm the blind leading the blind.

When you tightened to the max could you pull the thread through the plates. If yes then maybe there's a problem with the way the top tension unit is assembled.

Welcome from sunny Gillingham. You'll learn lots here. Good people.

No 25 is obviously there. I notice you still haven't tightened up the knurled tension knob. I'm betting all will be well after you've done that. The spring only has to move slightly to release the thread.

No. It's inside the split shaft that the plates/spring slide on. If you take off the whole tension unit you'll find a small hole. Where No 25 comes through. Looking at that last vid it might well be that your tension is just way too loose. Tighten the knurled bit right up and see if there's a difference. That at least will take up the slack stitches on the back side.

It lives in the center split and the thin end goes through a hole to the plate that you were moving in the first vid. It's job is to push out the black spring plate to release the thread.