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Instead of keep buying new beds for my five dogs, I should be able to make a decent fist of making em myself. I'm thinking just a padded boxed rectangle with a shearling top that snaps off for cleaning. What would be the budget waterproof material to use? They do occasionally scratch and tear the thin fabric types

Nice idea! If it get's those constructive juices flowing it'll do.

Thanks Folker but what I need to know is what type of tape/binder is used for what application? Some raincoats for my dogs using ripstop nylon are gonna need a different setup than binding leather surely? And binding tape with a raw edge (that you cut yourself) would surely need a double fold right?

Anyone? I've done some looking but there seems to be a lack of info on these tape turny things.For starters I'd like to make some raincoats for my five dogs but I don't wanna be buying stuff that's gonna sit in a drawer.

Thanks Glenn. Appreciate it. Everything arrived this morning from KHsew. Took awhile but if it all works as well as the packing I'll be pleased. Just need the tape turny thing now. Do I have to buy one for a particular tape width or are there ones that will cater for various widths? And does the tape come with a finished edge or a raw edge and does the turny thing cater for that? What should I be looking for?

You'll no doubt be aware that the chessmen in that picture are the wrong way round. Bottom left hand square must be black.

I always find with a question such as this at best you'll get three different answers. I would either try it on a scrap piece or try a very diluted dye and proceed with the darker if it doesn't bleed. And of course leave it to dry with the shearling side up.

Witches brew - clue. Re; The buckle. Depending on the strength needed, I know Batchelors do some really heavy duty ones. Maybe if you cut the down side of the perimeter next to the bar you can slide it over the end of the belt and still have enough strength in the top piece with little chance of it falling off especially if it's worn.

You'll find it difficult with anything but veg tan and the thinner it is, the easier it is.

I think you have a future in leatherwork my friend. Well done.

You do nice work. I'm doing some dies to cut those circle/half circles. Pondering whether to include a handle as well as a strap. Should do both I guess.

Welcome to the forum. Some nice work there and an unusual design, Where's the rest of the pics?

This question never gets old and it's impossible to answer specifically because each transaction has it's own variables. The quality and speed of your work/the quality and cost of the materials used/the target market? They all have a bearing. Added to that, the reason for making the item plays a big part. Is it simply to make money? How much altruism is in you? In this case some people might relish the opportunity to pay back some of the kindness already shown. If it were me I wouldn't charge her a penny and there's always the hope that I'll get all or part of the cost back on the surplus five yards. Which is puzzling in itself! Why not not buy the right amount? I'm sure there are suppliers who don't just sell whole sides, especially when told it's a gift for a carer. Of course if you're the sole supporter of six kids who haven't eaten for two days or the recipient has the kind of money that allows them to tip that amount to the doorman at the theatre, the picture changes somewhat.

Very nice and clean. I have one nit pick. It looks like the handle ring keeper goes through a slot and doubles back on itself which would put undue strain on the slot. Please tell me I'm wrong and the keeper strap goes under and back out of the other slot which would spread the load better.

Thanks Lynn. I noticed the spare punches are quite reasonable. Would it be prudent to order a couple when buying?

I'm not getting what you mean. Are you saying the hand held one I listed above won't go through unless you hit it with a mallet?

Long shot! Does anyone know if this tool will put say a 3/16th hole in rule steel? Or where to get the dies to do the same with the arbor press. https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/punches---wad-and-hole/hand-operated-hole-punch-kit/p/ZT1001882X?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=pla%2B%7C%2BHand%20Tools&utm_term=ZT1001882X&utm_medium=pla_css_3&mkwid=-dc&pcrid=314494376348&pkw=&pmt=&prodid=ZT1001882X&slid=&pgrid={groupid}&ptaid=pla-394844308538&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9evxh8LI7AIVxOF3Ch3MoghUEAQYBSABEgJQp_D_BwE

Does anyone know the shaft size of a Nakakima 341L?

Nice Job. I hope you've got a welt in there else it will cut the thread eventually.

I don't go in for wows but WOW! You had the vision and saw it through. That there is an heirloom my friend. Well done.

Excellent idea!

I agree completely but lets not forget that it's a business expenditure where it will eventually pay for itself over and over. In my case it'll be an enjoyable experiment to see what I can do with it. I honestly don't have an immediate job for it and don't even know yet what size tape thingy to buy or single fold or double fold. Don't have a clue but I'll enjoy finding out.

I know Glenn but it doesn't make the bits any cheaper.

The pulley can be any size Uwe, it's the taperlock that goes on the shaft and these can be got in any size. I've attempted a video showing the taperlock bush in the center. I've also included the bill for the pulley, the taperlock bush and the new belt. The 4omm pulley on the servo I already had.

I don't get it. All the established gurus seem to promote the box type reducer which is beyond the ability of most people and takes a considerable amount of time to gather the components and put something together. On my Durkopp 239 and my Adler 69 all I did was change out the standard handwheel for a much larger pulley and a smaller pulley on the servo motor. The result gives more torque and I can do a stitch at a time. Once you have the pulleys it takes around 1 to 2 hours to do and costs no more than a third of the cost of a box type or less. Perhaps someone will say what's wrong with doing it this way?