toxo

I have that pattern already cut out (paper). Maybe when I finish improving my project room.

Thanks Uwe. I had seen that thread but me being a cheapskate was thinking you can't need all that surely. It's far too expensive. Especially with most of the 69s having the sideways feed dog anyway. To be clear, mine is the 69-72E42. Do we know what the difference is between mine and say the 373? I'd love to know. So this is the standard one yes? And does the actual tape turny thing screw into those holes at the front?

Don't intend to do masses of it but what do I need guys. I've tried looking but it's confusing. Thanks.

Looks good Frodo.

Found the take up spring was trapped behind the assembly instead of in front and free to move.

Look for basting tape.

Thanks guys. Been busy today will come back with some pics. Thanks Folker for clearing up the odd screw.

Thanks for the replies peeps. Been changing my project room around and being small I have tp move stuff five times. Still, it'll be better for it. Will come back when I find something.

I mean the thread is looking ok but is laying on the top of both sides instead of pulling into the leather but when I increase the pressure on both sides I start to get frayed/ broken thread or even a bent or broken needle. Thread is V92 or T90 or Tkt 30

I would have thought this was an easy one for some of you gurus?

That's good to know. But searching on Ebay for it says UHMW but further down it calls it High Density Polyethelene (HDPE) like this one. I know yhere are different grades. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UHMW-PE-High-Density-Polyethylene-10mm-Sheet-Natural-Translucent-White-300mm-x/293759650336?hash=item4465708a20:g:jowAAOSw6olfc2wA This one I've got in my basket until something else comes along https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDPE-Sheet-NATURAL-BLACK-High-Density-Polyethylene-PEHD-Polythene-mm/401002482629?var=670531748255 I've also looked at Neoprene but know nothing about it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-RUBBER-PAD-200MMSQ-X-1MM-1-5MM-2MM-AND-3MMTHK/230691451712?var=530044149373

Thanks Tom, I'll have a look but I'm getting more confused by the day. One of my oval shapes went straight through the 6mm silicone board when I wasn't paying attention. I bought a 3mm one that's much too hard. People are recommending stuff but they're not saying if a clicker die will go through it. In my head I'm thinking conveyor belt material would be about right but I don't know where to find it.

Looks really good to me. £350 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3322640594486761

This might have legs. Wouldn't bother with the drilling and tapping. A hole with thick wire or similar will do the job. Maybe you want yours permanently at that setting. I found out recently that cutting all the way through when walking a die is not so critical. I turn it over and tap the bits that aren' all the way through with a plastic hammer.

I gave up after looking for a price. This looks like it might work and reasonably priced but will a clicker die cut through it?

Surprised to see they're made out of polypropylene.

Don't know Fred. Need someone to tell me. I think HDPE is what they make milk cartons out of. I'm thinking a piece of conveyor belt would be ideal but where to get it from?

I've got the tension balanced going through two pieces of 2.4mm veg tan. But the stitches are laying on the top and when I try to put more tension on top and bottm I start to run into trouble. I'm using V92 and a 110/120 needle. Is this the right needle/thread combo for two layers of 2.4mm or should I go heavier? Whilst I'm here can someone please tell me what the small adjuster on top of the pressure bar is for? I'm assuming the main adjuster is for pressure and the bottom one is for locking it down but I have no idea what the small one on top is for.

When I'm using one of my clicker knives under my 1 ton arbor press, I'm usually walking it around the knife on 2.4mm veg tan with a 6mm silicone cutting board underneath and it's not easy on some bits to feel when it's gone through and sometimes I'm halfway through the silicone mat. One time I went all the way through. I know the rubber clicker type mats are really expensive but it's something I might have to consider. Doesn't need to be large. Say 6inch square at least and preferably around 10 inches. Haven't got a clue about thickness. So what are you guys using and where can I find it please?

When I'm using one of my clicker knives under my 1 ton arbor press, I'm usually walking it around the knife on 2.4mm veg tan with a 6mm silicone cutting board underneath and it's not easy on some bits to feel when it's gone through and sometimes I'm halfway through the silicone mat. One time I went all the way through. I know the rubber clicker type mats are really expensive but it's something I might have to consider. Doesn't need to be large. Say 6inch square at least and preferably around 10 inches. Haven't got a clue about thickness. So what are you guys using and where can I find it please?

It's not a precise science and it depends a lot on your mark. Some are sharper than others . I would imagine you'll soon get a feel for the right pressure with the press you have or get a cheap arbor press. Lots of options that way. I often use a long bar with mine rather than lean on it. If I wanted to get cranky I could work something out but if you just sink the mark to the level of the base it'll be fine. Different leather will have a different density anyway.

Well done, will be giving it a go. Thank you.

Some people go a long way to get that sort of effect. Go for it for sure.

Very nice. One day I might attempt a watch strap.

The reason some inc myself don't use a backing is so that the flesh side with a different grade of compound gives an alternate strop before using the finer grain side.