
toxo
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Everything posted by toxo
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Surprised to see they're made out of polypropylene.
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Don't know Fred. Need someone to tell me. I think HDPE is what they make milk cartons out of. I'm thinking a piece of conveyor belt would be ideal but where to get it from?
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I've got the tension balanced going through two pieces of 2.4mm veg tan. But the stitches are laying on the top and when I try to put more tension on top and bottm I start to run into trouble. I'm using V92 and a 110/120 needle. Is this the right needle/thread combo for two layers of 2.4mm or should I go heavier? Whilst I'm here can someone please tell me what the small adjuster on top of the pressure bar is for? I'm assuming the main adjuster is for pressure and the bottom one is for locking it down but I have no idea what the small one on top is for.
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When I'm using one of my clicker knives under my 1 ton arbor press, I'm usually walking it around the knife on 2.4mm veg tan with a 6mm silicone cutting board underneath and it's not easy on some bits to feel when it's gone through and sometimes I'm halfway through the silicone mat. One time I went all the way through. I know the rubber clicker type mats are really expensive but it's something I might have to consider. Doesn't need to be large. Say 6inch square at least and preferably around 10 inches. Haven't got a clue about thickness. So what are you guys using and where can I find it please?
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When I'm using one of my clicker knives under my 1 ton arbor press, I'm usually walking it around the knife on 2.4mm veg tan with a 6mm silicone cutting board underneath and it's not easy on some bits to feel when it's gone through and sometimes I'm halfway through the silicone mat. One time I went all the way through. I know the rubber clicker type mats are really expensive but it's something I might have to consider. Doesn't need to be large. Say 6inch square at least and preferably around 10 inches. Haven't got a clue about thickness. So what are you guys using and where can I find it please?
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It's not a precise science and it depends a lot on your mark. Some are sharper than others . I would imagine you'll soon get a feel for the right pressure with the press you have or get a cheap arbor press. Lots of options that way. I often use a long bar with mine rather than lean on it. If I wanted to get cranky I could work something out but if you just sink the mark to the level of the base it'll be fine. Different leather will have a different density anyway.
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Some people go a long way to get that sort of effect. Go for it for sure.
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Unapoligetically color blind.
toxo replied to sonnyboone's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Very nice. One day I might attempt a watch strap. -
The reason some inc myself don't use a backing is so that the flesh side with a different grade of compound gives an alternate strop before using the finer grain side.
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You don't need wood. Just a decent thickness of veg tan leather. Both sides can be used usually with a rubbing compound.
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Knife Sheath for a Colombia SR Bowie Knife
toxo replied to mtown's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Nice job. If you wet it and let it dry flat with weight on it it may grip tighter but I like your holding clip through the belt loop, Just stitch it in place. And by the way, we like to see the ironmongery next to the sheath. -
Everything is a compromise. The smaller the thread the neater it looks but the harder it is to sew if the hole is small and the needle is large. If you have a decent amount of thread buy different needles. John James #2 will be useful. JJ#3 will take a 1mm thread. when saddle stitching it's good to put both needles in the hole at the same time, this negates piercing the thread which will give you a headache. If you have to, you can do one needle at a time but must be extra careful to not pierce threads. Make sure you buy harness needles which are blunt.
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I wasn't worried about an exact fit on this one. It's attached along the top with the zip. The rest can be pulled out for cleaning.
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Of course! Thanks Sturme, I used some piping stuff on the sils hat a couple of months ago. Don't get old mate So I could skive down some of the same stuff and use piping or use veg tan on it's own. I think the veg tans gonna win. Less work.
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It is kinda cool isn't it. Be sure to use the veg tan Chuck and don't do what I did and cut out the top first only to find I could've cut the top out of what's left after you cut out the brim Re; stiffening the brim... sewing doesn't work Still it answered a question. I'm now looking for a strip of veg tan. I think I have some black somewhere.
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I know I go on about Tony See but I think he's good all round value. I'm just giving everyone a heads up that he's getting close to 90,000 sales and he has a tradition of giving away a free pattern for every 10.000 sales to all who joined his facebook group. Recently another example of what he's like. He uses extra long needles and I looked everywhere and couldn't find any. He won't sell them or recommend them because they're plated. He went out of his way to send me 20 of his stock from Romania. Of course I had to pay for them, he's not an idiot but I was pleased to get them.
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Glue it up in paper first.
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The stiff one is 2.2mm/2.4mm veg tan. The floppy one is around 3mm chrome tan. I got a whole 25sq ft side for £50 delivered here in the UK
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Thanks Fred. Was looking for a quick fix really and asking out of curiosity. I guess I'll sew a couple of rows and if thet's not enough I'll bind it.
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Been messing with hats lately. This one is a commission. I had some cheap chrome tan and I wanted something to throw on when I need to go to the car in the rain. The one I've had for years has a wire brim and each time I need it I have to spend five minutes getting it back into shape before I can wear it.This chrome tan is ideal but being 3mm and heavy it's as floppy as a floppy thing and the brim hangs down around my shoulders. The question is, will a couple rows of stitches firm it up or will I have to use a wire? Doesn't have to be rigid, just keep a rough shape..
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Handbags. totes. hats etc. I know I can wrap em in clingfilm but there must be something that looks a bit more professional to ship em in?
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Where does one find the kind of bags you store/ship you keep your finished items in?