toxo

I always find with a question such as this at best you'll get three different answers. I would either try it on a scrap piece or try a very diluted dye and proceed with the darker if it doesn't bleed. And of course leave it to dry with the shearling side up.

Witches brew - clue. Re; The buckle. Depending on the strength needed, I know Batchelors do some really heavy duty ones. Maybe if you cut the down side of the perimeter next to the bar you can slide it over the end of the belt and still have enough strength in the top piece with little chance of it falling off especially if it's worn.

You'll find it difficult with anything but veg tan and the thinner it is, the easier it is.

I think you have a future in leatherwork my friend. Well done.

You do nice work. I'm doing some dies to cut those circle/half circles. Pondering whether to include a handle as well as a strap. Should do both I guess.

Welcome to the forum. Some nice work there and an unusual design, Where's the rest of the pics?

This question never gets old and it's impossible to answer specifically because each transaction has it's own variables. The quality and speed of your work/the quality and cost of the materials used/the target market? They all have a bearing. Added to that, the reason for making the item plays a big part. Is it simply to make money? How much altruism is in you? In this case some people might relish the opportunity to pay back some of the kindness already shown. If it were me I wouldn't charge her a penny and there's always the hope that I'll get all or part of the cost back on the surplus five yards. Which is puzzling in itself! Why not not buy the right amount? I'm sure there are suppliers who don't just sell whole sides, especially when told it's a gift for a carer. Of course if you're the sole supporter of six kids who haven't eaten for two days or the recipient has the kind of money that allows them to tip that amount to the doorman at the theatre, the picture changes somewhat.

Very nice and clean. I have one nit pick. It looks like the handle ring keeper goes through a slot and doubles back on itself which would put undue strain on the slot. Please tell me I'm wrong and the keeper strap goes under and back out of the other slot which would spread the load better.

Thanks Lynn. I noticed the spare punches are quite reasonable. Would it be prudent to order a couple when buying?

I'm not getting what you mean. Are you saying the hand held one I listed above won't go through unless you hit it with a mallet?

Long shot! Does anyone know if this tool will put say a 3/16th hole in rule steel? Or where to get the dies to do the same with the arbor press. https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/punches---wad-and-hole/hand-operated-hole-punch-kit/p/ZT1001882X?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=pla%2B%7C%2BHand%20Tools&utm_term=ZT1001882X&utm_medium=pla_css_3&mkwid=-dc&pcrid=314494376348&pkw=&pmt=&prodid=ZT1001882X&slid=&pgrid={groupid}&ptaid=pla-394844308538&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9evxh8LI7AIVxOF3Ch3MoghUEAQYBSABEgJQp_D_BwE

Does anyone know the shaft size of a Nakakima 341L?

Nice Job. I hope you've got a welt in there else it will cut the thread eventually.

I don't go in for wows but WOW! You had the vision and saw it through. That there is an heirloom my friend. Well done.

Excellent idea!

I agree completely but lets not forget that it's a business expenditure where it will eventually pay for itself over and over. In my case it'll be an enjoyable experiment to see what I can do with it. I honestly don't have an immediate job for it and don't even know yet what size tape thingy to buy or single fold or double fold. Don't have a clue but I'll enjoy finding out.

I know Glenn but it doesn't make the bits any cheaper.

The pulley can be any size Uwe, it's the taperlock that goes on the shaft and these can be got in any size. I've attempted a video showing the taperlock bush in the center. I've also included the bill for the pulley, the taperlock bush and the new belt. The 4omm pulley on the servo I already had.

I don't get it. All the established gurus seem to promote the box type reducer which is beyond the ability of most people and takes a considerable amount of time to gather the components and put something together. On my Durkopp 239 and my Adler 69 all I did was change out the standard handwheel for a much larger pulley and a smaller pulley on the servo motor. The result gives more torque and I can do a stitch at a time. Once you have the pulleys it takes around 1 to 2 hours to do and costs no more than a third of the cost of a box type or less. Perhaps someone will say what's wrong with doing it this way?

I've ordered one of these. There is a conveyor belt piece on Ebay that'a slightly more expensive but I was drawn to this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDPE-Sheet-NATURAL-BLACK-High-Density-Polyethylene-PEHD-Polythene-mm/401002482629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=670531748255&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 And because I make the dies with a wood core I'll just have to make sure the thickness doesn't allow the knife to go too deep.

Did you get his latest freebie Frodo?

That was after I'd almost pulled the trigger with College at £206. I ordered it last night with Ksew @ £106 delivered. Bear in mind this is a hobby for me albeit hopeful that I might get something back sometime. Binding is an art and science, frustrating to many who attempt it. Many people experienced with binding will simply say “take my money!” when they’re presented with a solution that actually works. Then they don’t touch the binding setup after it works properly - they simply buy a second machine for whatever else they might want to sew. Now you've proper frightened me. And I still have to buy the turny tape thing at the end and presumably a different one for each tape width?

You are where I was not so long ago. After struggling with my Durkopp 239 flatbed (my fault, not the machines) and it's fine now I bought an Adler69 and I would suggest you look at cylinder arm machines for more versatility. Ilike my 69 but with you being in the US I only mention it as a range to look at. Be aware that some c/arms have sideways feed dogs and some go up and down as well which go over bumps better. The only thing I missed while learning is a reverse lever that locked because to begin with it seems like you need three hands. Someone will be along to talk about actual machines but meantime have a sqizz at Wizz's post which is the one above yours in "Leather Sewing Machines" Good luck.

I have that pattern already cut out (paper). Maybe when I finish improving my project room.

Thanks Uwe. I had seen that thread but me being a cheapskate was thinking you can't need all that surely. It's far too expensive. Especially with most of the 69s having the sideways feed dog anyway. To be clear, mine is the 69-72E42. Do we know what the difference is between mine and say the 373? I'd love to know. So this is the standard one yes? And does the actual tape turny thing screw into those holes at the front?