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Everything is a compromise. The smaller the thread the neater it looks but the harder it is to sew if the hole is small and the needle is large. If you have a decent amount of thread buy different needles. John James #2 will be useful. JJ#3 will take a 1mm thread. when saddle stitching it's good to put both needles in the hole at the same time, this negates piercing the thread which will give you a headache. If you have to, you can do one needle at a time but must be extra careful to not pierce threads. Make sure you buy harness needles which are blunt.

2.4mm veg tan. Here's a couple more pics.

I wasn't worried about an exact fit on this one. It's attached along the top with the zip. The rest can be pulled out for cleaning.

Of course! Thanks Sturme, I used some piping stuff on the sils hat a couple of months ago. Don't get old mate So I could skive down some of the same stuff and use piping or use veg tan on it's own. I think the veg tans gonna win. Less work.

It is kinda cool isn't it. Be sure to use the veg tan Chuck and don't do what I did and cut out the top first only to find I could've cut the top out of what's left after you cut out the brim Re; stiffening the brim... sewing doesn't work Still it answered a question. I'm now looking for a strip of veg tan. I think I have some black somewhere.

I know I go on about Tony See but I think he's good all round value. I'm just giving everyone a heads up that he's getting close to 90,000 sales and he has a tradition of giving away a free pattern for every 10.000 sales to all who joined his facebook group. Recently another example of what he's like. He uses extra long needles and I looked everywhere and couldn't find any. He won't sell them or recommend them because they're plated. He went out of his way to send me 20 of his stock from Romania. Of course I had to pay for them, he's not an idiot but I was pleased to get them.

Glue it up in paper first.

The stiff one is 2.2mm/2.4mm veg tan. The floppy one is around 3mm chrome tan. I got a whole 25sq ft side for £50 delivered here in the UK

Thanks Fred. Was looking for a quick fix really and asking out of curiosity. I guess I'll sew a couple of rows and if thet's not enough I'll bind it.

Been messing with hats lately. This one is a commission. I had some cheap chrome tan and I wanted something to throw on when I need to go to the car in the rain. The one I've had for years has a wire brim and each time I need it I have to spend five minutes getting it back into shape before I can wear it.This chrome tan is ideal but being 3mm and heavy it's as floppy as a floppy thing and the brim hangs down around my shoulders. The question is, will a couple rows of stitches firm it up or will I have to use a wire? Doesn't have to be rigid, just keep a rough shape..

Thanks Fred.

Handbags. totes. hats etc. I know I can wrap em in clingfilm but there must be something that looks a bit more professional to ship em in?

Where does one find the kind of bags you store/ship you keep your finished items in?

Can you get em here by tomorrow?

Yes Matt. The original boss that attached to the handwheel was nylon? with the thicker pulley the original center screw was much too short so I bought a kit from College that included a steel center boss and longer screws as well as extra L shapes etc. Everything is solid. Its a very simple principle. On the little circuit board there are two U shaped sensors . There are two discs with cut-outs, one for needle down and one for needle up. When the cut-out reaches the sensor it stops the motor. I've adjusted both discs so all is good but after a while it changes, Maybe things have to be done in a certain order, I was expecting a call from College today . Maybe they were busy. Personally I think I have a poltergeist. When I first got on it today it worked perfectly on pressing the button it was on F2 which should have been F1. After some sewing it went out of whack again. Yesterday I used an allen key on a presser foot and put it on the table in front of me. Two minutes later I couldn't find it. I searched everywhere. I even used my extended magnet so search places I couldn't see. This is the point where I knew I had a poltergeist and the hairs went up on the back of my neck. I picked up a different allen key to do the job and actually said out loud " OK you bastard, you've had your fun but you can't win". I sat down to the machine and looked down and there, poking out from under the treadle was a third of the missing allen key in plain sight.

I think you've got it dikman. It's puzzling though because the two discs are fixed and where you put em should stay the same. Maybe College will know something later. If not I'll have to take it off.

The unit is solid. Just paid for a new mounting kit to accomodate the bigger handwheel. I've had the back off and adjusted the two wheels so It's just how I want it. Do some sewing and a while later it's all over the place again. It even switches between up and down. In F1 it's supposed to be needle down when foot off but sometimes it switches. Only thing I haven't tried is pulling the plug or maybe there's a reset button. Dave at College sewing who sells em might know something but he wasn't in today.

Do these go wrong often? I have the Jack type and I keep resetting it but it doesn't stick. Dave at College isn't in today so can any of you guys shed any light?

I can't claim to be an expert at saddle stitching. I've always used John James but after watching lots of Tony Sees (DieselpunkRo) videos I noticed he uses a longer than usual needle. He doesn't promote them but he doesn't say why. Long story short I badgered him into getting me some. They arrived yesterday after 11 days from Romania (which was expected). They look ok haven't used em yet but they've got to be easier being longer, we'll see.

Thanks Uwe, you're a star. I've had a day and a half with this today. Everything looks great and then something changes, stitch length, breaking threads, needle syncro. You name it, I've had fun with it today. I'll persevere. I know it'll be good when it's done.

Almost got this where I want it but the needle isn't in the center of the hole. Don't want to make the hole any bigger. The manual makes the adjustment sound easy but I can't find the part it's referring to. Help me out someone please. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461563/Duerkopp-Adler-69-373.html?page=14#manual

You set the speed on the panel. The pedal then gives you from zero to max . In the video the set speed was the lowest I can get it which was 16. On that setting I can stop at half a stitch. If I set the speed to 41 (the highest it will go) the machine will still go from zero to max but at a faster rate. Finished the fettling today. Put on the new belt but had to extend the slot in the table. Had to make a new bracket for the needle synchroniser because of the bigger diameter of the pulley but all done now. I know it's gonna be a joy to use now once I attempt to fine tune it. :)

Another update. Pulley now secure but belt too small, changing it tomorrow. Made a leather one to test. https://youtu.be/fCRqWdEqTeM

Update. Turns out the shaft on my Adler is 14mm not 15mm so will be exchanging the taperlock bush later. Also the center set screw that holds the nylon bush for the synchroniser isn't long enough for the thickness of the bigger pulley but it looks like College Sewing has that covered with a kit. I did bodge it together with a torx bit in the keyway and a leather strip for a belt andthe result looks really good. I'll try to do a video when It's done.

Don't know about self piercing but depending on the density of the rubber might be worth looking at pop rivets with a speed riviter like lazy tongs.