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I've just ordered a 250mm pully with the corresponding taperlock bush with a 15mm bore. Total cost inc vat =£23+ the new belt. The only variable is the size of the new belt. I'm aware that if I could get the servo to start at 1 instead of 16 I wouldn't need such a big pulley but I can always change the size of the pulley and use the same taperlock bush. Another factor in going for a big pulley is weight. I might even add more weight to make up for the heavy factory handwheel.

Yes, I believe 1600 would be too fast for me but I've brought the speed down some by fitting the 40mm pulley. It's still a little too fast so I'll be taking a trip to the pulley shop soon for a replacement hand wheel. I might go as big as 250mm. I know it's a bit sticky outy with no guard on it but there's only me and the dogs here and the dogs can't reach. Have to cut a longer slot for the longer belt and move the bobbin winder but I think it'll be worth it. I'll still have up to No 41 if I want a bit more speed. I don't Know if the Jack motors have the gradient thing in em. I'll check before I do anything drastic.

To be fair, the speed of the Adler isn't far away from what I want because I've already installed a 40mm pulley on the servo. I think I will replace the hand wheel for a bigger pulley. I put a 170mm pulley on the Durkopp 239 along with a 75mm pulley on the motor which gives me good speed and control and more torque than the Adler. I think my biggest problem with the Adler at the moment is the control. It's been put to the front of a Singer table and getting close to the action meant that I was inadvertently putting more weight on the toe and the balance was such that it would suddenly start and frighten the life out of me. I moved the treadle forward slightly but I can't counterbalance the weight of the treadle. I will add springs/bungees to the forward edge of the thing until I get it tamed. Folker, I appreciate what you're saying and of course, each to his own but for me a car is for getting from A to B not spending hours polishing it. Those SR gizmos are way too much faff for me. A pulley and taperlock bush will probably cost around £20/£25, Will give me the speed I want, and because it has more mass will be slightly slower to get going and give more torque. It will be easier to "handwheel" and will take minutes to fit excluding any alterations to the EPS infrastructure.

The slower of the two modes starts slower but to be honest I don't see much difference between the two modes. I'm not sure of the slowest speed at what would be No1 but the speed goes up by 100 for each increase thus No50 equates to 5000. Mine starts at 16 but I've installed a 40mm pulley so god knows what speed it's doing. Both speed modes will use whater No is selected. I'm beginning to feel like a dog with a bone. I can do a stitch at a time if I'm careful and I think some foam under the pedal or a spring/bungee will cut down the surprises. At the moment I'm frightened to put my foot on the treadle if there's any work under the needle.

That's great Danne, thank you. Unfortunately I can't see an answer to my problem. I already know how to change the speed but it just won't go lower than sixteen. On my other machine (different servo) it starts at 1. I've sent an email but not holding my breath.

I may have asked before and got no answer. The servo on my Adler 69 starts at 16 and goes up to41. I can't get it any lower.I've got it somewhere near where I want it by putting a 40mm pulley on it but it still catches me out sometimes. If I can't get a solution I'll probably replace the hand wheel with a large pulley. Anyone got a manual please?

Does the singer have reverse? Looks like the Pfaff does.

Thread is slightly out of date but your plea should still be heard. Good luck.

You my friend are a man of considerable patience and skill. I salute you.

I made a bag as a gift for a young lady who loves Wolves and purple. Magnetic closer as well. OK I'm no artist but.... It came back cos it was the wrong purple.

Excellent work! Attention paid to detail in every aspect. People will see this and be reluctant to show their stuff Wonderful chair also. Well done.

Sorted now guys. Went with Abbey. Polyester wrong colour so went with nylon but at least it's Dark Brown.

A very kind offer Folker but unless they ship direct to the uk (the one I looked at won't) It's shipping to you and then shipping to me. Plus I'd rather bite the bullet than cause you hassle my friend.

I think It's a supply/demand thing. I can see Brown selling out first (for leather) And yes, maybe the virus has diverted some production.

All the other colours around £10/£15 per decent sized cone. Brown? Either non existent or priced around £30. Any sources anyone?

Sort of OT but reminded me of a small firm that moved next door to me years ago. They'd come up with the idea of shredding tyres. cleaning and colouring them and with some kind of resin they would float the stuff all around your swimming pool to give a warm, non slip and of course waterproof surface. I remember thinking I wish I'd thought of that.

Yes, I think you're right Tor I did have it turned and it sewed OK. Just needed confirmation before I start shaving bits off. Thank you.

Just received a new regular foot for my Adler 69 and I'm having a problem with alignment. Was using a zipper foot before so didn't notice it. The inner foot looks like it wants to go outboard slightly. Is this doable?

Well excuse me! Thought I was passing useful information.

Bit late but Cechaflo has it covered.

Have you ever tried not doing the knot thing. I gave up doing that and find it much better just to thread it and leave it. It doesn't pull through in my experience and it means on long runs I can pull a lot more of the loose end through thus shortening the amount to pull through and also means that as I get near the end I can alter the length thus changing the part thatsitting in the eye which eliminates wear just at one point on the thread. I appreciate that this might mean more thread in the hole but I think the pros outweigh the cons.

Hey Matt. Did you solve your problem? Leaving aside cotton have you considered heating the knofe for nylon? I use a hot wire and a variable power supply for dense foam. A tiny gap in the knife and a dc supply might do it. Even a car battery will work for a wire. Don't know about rule steel though. Same principle they use for cutting nylon rope. Paul

I think I have it sorted. Syncing the forward and reverse isn't as simple as that video makes out. When I screw the clamp back on it doesn't grab like it does in the video. It must be something to do with the collar but he shows putting the collar on afterward. There must be an order to it because I did it once but it wasn't right so had to do it again and now I can't remember how I did it before. Grrred a few times after dropping the collar through to the bottom. Oh for a proper set of engineers tools.

I have checked as far as on minimum there is a very slight movement on the feed dog. On maximum it looks close to the 0.5mm at each end as per the book. Ill post a video later.

What's the maximum stitch length and how different is the 72E compared with the 373. I have looked, honest. The biggest stitch I can get is 9 to the inch. I don't think this is normal so is there an easy fix? please say yes. I watched the vid that Folker put up re equalising forward and reverse but can't find anything on stitch length.