Troy I

I was thinking of buying some Abbey 1982 Saddle Food and some Sedgwick Leathercare. Has anyone ever used these products and if so how did they work? Thanks, Troy

Any idea how much shipping would be to the U.S.?

Yes, two or three coats of resolene or mop n glow 50/50 mix.

I've used Acrylic Wax (two or three light coats of Mop-N-Glow 50/50 with water) without any problems...I have also treated the back of straps with only Montana Pitch Blend or Aussie Leather Conditioner, when using these products you have to let it sit for several hours or heat with a hair dryer to get it to absorb into the leather. Then make sure you rub the leather real well, to remove any excess so you don't get any oily transfer to clothing.

Wickett & Craig...good leather...good people.

Try backing off the tension on your top thread.

To me the thread seamed to be on the thin side...but the only threads that I have to compare it to are the waxed nylon thread from Springfield Leather, and #277 bonded nylon and #277 bonded polyester both from Cowboy Bob that I use with my CB4500. The thread sample does sew really nice, but for my taste it looks a little thin on my holsters and slings.

The samples arrived today...very nice thread...sure beats the waxed nylon from Springfield. Thank you. Troy

When I was on duty, I had an open cuff case in front of my holster and a closed cuff case in the middle of my back. The closed case had a full leather flap that snapped in place. All issued equipment, no personal items were allowed.

Did you just let it dry and then re-dyed it ? It looks real good now...never thought of doing that, I was afraid it would turn out more splotchy. I will have to try that next time.

I sometimes get this too, when I dip dye with brown dye...I think the dye is absorbed at different rates especially along the edges and holes. Sometimes it will even out with time...sometimes not. I have had the same thing happen when applying a light coat of oil on brown dyed projects as well. Usually if it does not even out I re-dye it black. Hopefully someone else will have a better answer/solution.

I have not had a problem with the leather being stored in the cardboard box. The problem was with a side I was cutting off of and left it stand in the corner for about a month while I worked on other things. It looked as if the leather absorbed moisture from the floor and left a water mark about a foot up from the bottom of the rolled up leather. To solve this problem I now store the rolled up leather on a 5 gal plastic bucket. I have stored leather for about a year in the cardboard box without a problem, except that it will develop a memory and not lie flat for awhile unless you leave it unrolled...it will eventually flatten out. We all learn best by our mistakes...LOL

I too have my work shop in the basement, as a result I have to run a dehumidifier to keep the moisture down during the summer months...not problems with the leather, but one word of warning--don't let your leather come into contact with a cement floor during extended storage--it will draw moisture from the concert and make a water mark "line" on your leather.

I'm from Virginia too....welcome.

I would love to learn how to make this type of mask...their fantastic.

Wow cool Web site and masks...you really do have a gift.

The only problems with pasted back leather that I have had is when trying to glue the backs together...the contact cement would not hold--I had to sand and rough it up a bit for it to adhere, also the pasted backs would not except dye as well and was always lighter in color than the hair side of the leather. No problems boning.

I don't think they are the same...Weldwood is the type I use, it is yellow, read the can it should tell you what type of glue it is...got it from a hardware store...with contact cement you have to coat both items to be glued together and then let it dry until it is tacky...then put them together.

I use pigskin to line holster. Type of Glue: Contact Cement--coat both pieces with the contact cement, let dry till tacky, press together--I then let mine dry over-night before I sew, others here sew right away---whichever way works best for you. Have never had to stretch it to make it fit into a fold, my holsters are flat until I wet mold them, after molding there are not wrinkles, if the glue has been correctly applied and cured. Hope this helps. Troy

You might be able to get the chocolate brown by letting the leather sit out in the sun for a day or two and then apply a coat of neatsfoot oil followed by some Aussie Leather Conditioner. I have done this and it usually turns out a "milk" chocolate color or a reddish tan...it depends on the leather. Just a thought...no dye...no bleeding. Troy

I use good ol ' fashion contact cement from Lowes...about $12 to $15 for a 32 ounce can...works just fine.

What if you were to wet the whole hide and then let it dry...I have had water marks on holsters and have done this and it helped some to blend the discoloration in the leather. Just a suggestion...what do you have to lose.

I have not had a problem with the Rings Blue Guns...a little small is better than too big. I wet mold my holsters and the leather will stretch quite a bit during this process. After the holster is dry the leather will continue to stretch and form to the given gun that is placed into the holster as the it is broken in by the costumer. If the holster stitch lines are laid out correctly the blue gun will go into the holster with a small to a fair amount of resistance when wet molding and forming the holster, this is what you want...in my opinion, because as I've stated above the holster will loosen up a little with use as it forms to the clients gun. I explain to my clients that a new holster is like a new pair of high quality boots...you need to break them in and get use to them before going outside.

I should have the added, make sure the contact cement is dry before you rub it with the eraser. If you don't wait till its completely dry you will rub it into the leather and cause problems when you dye it.

Use a rubber eraser and gently rub it over the contact cement... as long as it is on the smooth side of the hide , it will come off without a problem. I then clean the entire project with a rag and rubbing alcohol.