JREESER1

From the day we got our Holy Terrier, no leather anything allowed. No chews. no pigs' ears, no slippers and no other leather anything. In 2 years not one incident, knock on wood. I made sure every instant what she was chewing and allowed only hard nylon dog toys, never cloth or soft squeaky toys of any kind and by the end of the first 6weeks not one piece of chewed leather. Like kids you got to be aware, and know what they are doing. jr

I have had several shippers and mail handlers tell me, over the years, that "FRAGILE" just means ....."throw it underhand!" jr

Harry James! Dead center in the middle of the note. jr

Sorry, it will not. The presser foot will not raise that high and maintain any top tension. I have a LSZ-1, with a monster wheel and anything over 5-6 oz. causes skipped stiches. jr

I just read that Tandy's CEO, Jon Thompson resigned on 2/9/16. Maybe some changes are coming? jr

In April of 2014, I bought a Cobra 4P, the one with the accessory package, and I could not be more pleased. Both the machine and the service support have been absolutely stellar. Set up was easy, and I was learning to use the machine in only a few hours. One phone call about a tension issue and a thread, needle combination was easy to follow. I have had no issues with timing or misaligned reverse sewing at all. I keep it oiled, religiously with no problems with any wear or weird noises. I have sewn with #138 to #348 thread, on 8oz. to 3 layers of 10oz. without issue. I will recommend the Cobra 4 and Steve at The Leather Machine Co. to anyone, without hesitation. They are advertisers on this site and they are located in So. California. Give Steve a call and talk to him and see for yourself.

I have minimized a lot of scuffs and abrasions, and enhanced the look of veg tanned and even work boots with Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner. Some of the blemishes disappear and it's hard to tell it is the same piece of leather. It also makes the leather more flexible without taking away the character. I think most leather supply houses sell it for around $10.00/15oz. jr

I have a Cobra and solved this issue by wrapping the #138 thread only once around the bottom tensioner, (the one nearest the needle) instead of the normal twice around. This loosens up the tension enough to allow you to adjust the knot into the center of the leather. Make small tension adjustments to get the knot into the leather and off of the top. I hope this helps. jr

I have used a hard, rubber semi truck/trailer mud flap. You can find them with a flat surface at most large truck stops or semi trailer parts departments. If I remember correctly they run from about 36"X24"' jr

Love this site and appreciate everyone who contributes. I hope 2016 is as fruitful as '15. Thanks to all! jr

I just received the Year End Clearance flyer from Tandy. Item 1316-02 will go on sale 12/26/15 for $1.99 each! I never have anything I need go on sale exactly when I need it! Lucky. jr

To get started, sewing straighter seams, for cheap, go to Home Depot and grab two 2" long X 1/2" magnets and use them as a guide. Just position at the edge of the leather with the needle on your stitch line. If you are a little careful the magnet won't move and your stich line will be a lot straighter. I know most machines have attachable edge guide attachments available. They screw onto the bed of the machine and you adjust the stitch distance to the edge of the leather. But the magnets have worked for me, almost all of the time. jr

+1 Chief! Nothing but great service from Kevin and they have a great accounting office. Only one issue and it was fixed right now, on the toll free phone. jr

Cobra Steve wanted all on LW to know he will return to the office November 16th. We have not heard anything from him for a while on the forum. I am relieved to know he is on the mend. jr

Tandy's new catalog, Buyer's Guide #190, 2016, has them listed on the bottom of page 121, under item #1340-. I hope this helps. jr

I own a Cobra 4 and have found that very small, incremental tension adjustments (using the double loop tensioner, closest to the needle, first) on scrap pieces are the only way I could attain neat, proper looking stiches. I prefer LR pointed needles to get the stiches to look clean and slightly canted. Once you get the stich to look the way you want, and you change leather thickness, thread weight and needle size do not change the tension until you try stitching on a scrap of the material you will be using. I have found most times no adjustments are really needed. If any tension change is called for, make only tiny, 1/16-1/8 turn adjustments, to bury the knot in the stich. Just don't give up or get too frustrated. It will come. jr

I am sorry, JLS, but you would never find a quality Juki 441, or clone or any smaller, leather capable machine dealer, in my local area or even in Utah! No one here cares to consider the option of distributing or adequately servicing any industrial or leather machine. Their lack of expertise and the up front capital precludes any one taking any risk. It just will not happen. Greater Salt Lake has over a million people (not very large by most standards) and the Wasatch Front over 2 million and the only machines available, locally are quilters, light weight upholstery and home-fabric models, incapable of any practical leather application. One dealer I contacted said if I was really, really serious he might be talked into making a few calls. I am near 70, a survivor, cynical and pragmatic enough to know when someone is trying to blow air up my kilt and appease me with a wheelbarrow of B.S. And some I contacted were without conscience. I found this wonderful site and forum as I checked every resource available to me and researched every on-line review, comment and link, I could, to find a good machine that fit my needs and someone to stand behind it and take my questions and concerns seriously. I did not have the luxury of time, or the stamina to keep looking very much longer. I'm old! I feel more than lucky to have found Cobra Steve and the Leather Machine Co. right here on Leather Worker. By my own experience; he takes the service and support of the machines he sells, very seriously. He was close, only a state away, and I was very impressed with the tacit trust that developed between he and I, during our initial phone conversation. I will recommend my machine, a Cobra 4P, and Steve to anyone. He truly is a good, honest, man, that will do all in his power to find a solution to any issue. I am confident, he will not steer me or anyone else wrong, and will go to any length to find a solution to any support issue, period. I know Wiz, and many others have the same confidence in Cowboy Bob, Cobra Steve, Techsew and Keystone and know the reputations of all the vendors on this site. I find no vice in any of them jumping at the chance to share their knowledge, machines and service with members who seek advice and resources. I just happen to have found the right vendor, and a friend. jr.

Brown! jr

Tallbald, You gained all me respect when you warmly thanked you wife for filming the tutorial. And you discovered a very clever idea to do a tedious job, in a very, very helpful way. THANK YOU! jr

Hurray for the new CATALOG!!!!! I love your stuff and can't wait until I can actually figure out what I need and a price I am certain goes with that item. Your selection of unique, and needed hardware is second to none. I do appreciate your inventory. It is great having a source that has exactly what I need, and soon I will be able to find exactly what I want, before the dementia side tracks me as I find the page, piece and a price. Thanks!. jr

I do everything just like you describe up to the Resolene. I use Fiebing's Carnauba Cream and buff and buff. It seems to soak in a little better. I have used the Resolene (Cut to 50% with water) on USMC Black and it took a very long time to get a clean rag. I have never had issues with bleeding or color transfer with the Carnauba Cream. Hope this helps. jr

Just a thought. Be sure you use a solid surface to buck the rivet against. I place a small, 2 or 15 lbs. anvil , depending on the piece and the opening, under the flat of the rivet and make sure the flat stays flat on the anvil while I set the burr and peen the rivet. I have had great luck so far. I do not drive the burr on so hard that I mar the piece. If the rivet is square as I set it, the process goes fairly easy and looks good, taboot! jr

I love the Thread Exchange. Excellent color and weight selections and prompt delivery with exactly what I ordered. I usually buy the polyester, because of the extra UV durability. I have never been disappointed with their products, and I feel their prices are right in the ball park. jr

You might try an automotive parts or auto body shop supply house. I know some stock closed cell, universal flat and other shaped weather stripping. It is used when replacing trunk seals and old vehicle restorations. A bonus would be the water repellant aspect on the helmets. Just a thought. jr

With either a right or left pressure foot you can get pretty near that close to the crease. I prefer the left hand foot (it looks like a zipper foot on a home machine). I have vision issues with my right eye and can see the left foot better. I think there is a YouTube video on using a Left Toe on a Techsew 5100/4100. I remember seeing it a while ago. jr