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I think to avoid shipping cost, I would fabricate. This choice if I was in a hurry. The connection at the top needs known ? I believe it to take typically an L shape 3/8” rod to be .340” diameter up to 3/8” with threads at the oppositte end, these likely 3/8” course thread size and 4”. In short I would picture a 7” long bolt and have some one help with vise, bend this long bolt. The shape would be an L with the bottom end then longer at 5-3/4” and straight with 3/8” threads. The top length being 1-1/4” long. Flat washers needed @ 2, with one loc washer and two standard nuts that fit the threads. Again this if in a hurry and to save shipping which i havent a clue what 4 oz cost. Good day Floyd

Just a bit of positive information for you. Refined linseed oil has been and still is used on wood and custom wood gunstocks. I.e. ( lin-speed) It is a slow dry product with thin coats, easily estimate a 2 week period. Another very important infrastructure aspect with linseed oil. The product has been known throughout my career and even now in my retirement linseed oil has been used extensively in transportation. In this, areas or regions that may use salt, and other liquid ice treatments like calcium and or beet juice. In this situation linseed oil has been used for sealing certain, more expensive parts of roads like bridge road surfaces. This includes general raised roadways and or over passes. This application is a pre autum or frost “ maintenance “ investment. Something a bit closer to home for ya is my freinds in the great north (Canada ) are the world largest producer of flax / linseed, this amount is double of the next largest producer. Good day there Floyd

Im positive you need to use a thinner to remove it as much as possible. It will list a type on your can, your linseed oil purchased. Boiled or raw takes and extremely long time to dry out. If it does so quickly it does indeed have a blending solvent and other things to speed the dry process. Its a bit tougher finding raw linseed oil as its not as clean, thus pro painters would avoid. They used linseed oil, like boiled for mixing in oil based paints for smoothing, especially in hi heat situations. It has been commonly used in older window glazing compounds, it helps in several ways some are: wood conditioning, hi temps/drying to fast, some adhesion and finally some sealing abilities. The sealing is ancient old and now has many many better blends. I above mentioned blends above as linseed is still used in mixes but it needs its best placed application. As you may know other extremely old names have there uses; lacquer, tung oil, varnishes. With the present application I would now /still use a solvent base finish. This after the thining/removal as much as possible and thorough drying. I will say it has been a go to for me. I used it in applications above as mentioned with great success additions of applying to new and some older low-boy excavation equipment trailer decks. On these trailers i used turpintine for thinner, it is an outside use thinner for sure. Good day Floyd ps: you could try some spray lacquer in the wood worker section.

One of the best tools I can recommend is this 100 page reference book with pictures, includes brief description; with Use and Sharpen tips: Leathercraft Tools by Al Stohlman good day Floyd

Im not sure! Although a tip I can see now? Is to consider how you may want this on a makers mark. This you might just use company initials or something else partially or the complete name. In anycase I liked the requirement of at least a line draw of a design in its future. Not for the paperwork but any visuals you may use. Good luck Floyd ps: you can always try any names here for ideas or really to pass the, ya go for it test.

Good job Dale! In that manual it describes adjustment for the walking foot height, ( the slot adjustment). Really this is for climbing over seams and such. If this is truly not needed then the most efficient is leaving the adjustment connected towards the top. I think it’s listed on page 13. On another point you might discuss here and with the tech’s over at Cobra and or the other 441 dealers. Is what presser feet your using or other styles that might work better for your materials. Good day Floyd

Many times we can still get a glance of the red paint surrounding some holes on the machine. These are regular maintenance lube points for some sew machine oil. On the side cover they have a couple tiny plastic covers for lube points. I would rather remove that cover a give it a better service. When you slide to bobbin cover open, the assembly there needs sew machine oil. The saddle they call one part might still have a dip stick for checking oil level in that particular part. In that a manual can describe these specifics better and its probably best we locate a manual or one from the basic series machine for reference. Does yours have a place on top with site glass showing lube level possibly Here in the forums search, some tips can be had. Another method is pushing the site through google with a ending of your interest. Like - site: leatherworker.net - singer 211g166 good day Floyd

The spring on the back side that helps the presser feet linkage, temporaraly remove it. Then remove a lot of the excess white grease around the connection of the “ bent rod “ link. The long thin linkage on back side for presser foot actuation that has the screw, its loose. This screw requires tightening so to keep secure the link that is off. But first ( after complete or close to the removal ) so to facilitate re-conneting the bent rod link/ top side. After assembly secure that screw carefully. Now I would re install the helper spring and post up on any issues. Good luck Floyd

I think it matters just where your located. This is just from my listening to conversations here on the site. As I gathered some areas can have an additional cost and some may have this combined somehow into their own fee/tax structure. Good day Floyd

I think you should box it up and send it to me straight away. For the professional reasons of : fun testing! all kiddin aside that's a great find Floyd

I could be corrected and welcome it. Saying that I, understand they intended to make or keep a strength type specification when making a specific size thread. The one recomendation I will push is, buy new thread from a company. Another tip is keep these out of the sun in your particular storage. I found it pretty darn easy to get any brand name and any of their special threads “ if “ My size stayed under 138. Something I think is noticeable and weather it changes a decision or not its progress or invention, this has influenced threads for sewing. Good day Floyd

Has to have the thread removed from the tensioners if possible, if not at minimum removed from needle and the take up lever. With the motor power turned off. The side cover can then and has to be removed and layed in a safe place. With the presser feet (hand lever) in raised position, step on the foot pedal for the presser release. Does this let the knob fall Good day Floyd

If you have and or could use the blanket foot attachments. This would be a real benefit. I think you may be focusing on threads for the projects this can get crazy. So my thought would be not to get to thin, and need to have big reset sessions. Good day Floyd

... $95.00 Option This part can obviously be a benefit, maybe Cobra can offer the part if contacted. Have a good day Floyd

It looks like the top top tensioner is way tight, with that I truly dont understand yet the bottom tensioner/ take-up. Im interested on that assembly fore sure. Good luck Floyd

I looked around a bit a found a part number for some reference. Granted this in original can be up there in price. So your options, I have a few aftermarket that work fine. These both original and aftermarket could be had from any of the dealers that frequently help with questions here on the forum. Again I simply mention this because some threads as ptfe types like Tenara and Solarfix are a bit different. All this I mean running the same size. As the Poly and Nylons are closer to the same so in short they all have their own fine tuned tension settings. These mentioned along with hi temp threads as Aramid and Nomex can be a bit different as well. So jackin around with re adjusting case tensions could be avoided, or thats the plan. Juki bobbin case # B1837-241-H00 Floyd

My gosh! Your choices are great, ya just dont give me any room to improve. So still trying ( I'm hard headed ) if there’s room to add anything. I really think its a benefit to have at least 1 extra bobbin case/holder. These can be had off brand pretty affordable. This can simply benefit other sizes and more specfically types of thread. This importantly addresses tension set for specfic thread, they are sure different with some slick ones. Put these in a marked container for such thread types. If nothing else an extra for the same thread is great in them times of need. Good day Floyd

I would use a fine sharpie then a real heat gun to calmly melt it in. Bam! The Maul tattoo hey it just a wild thought Good day Floyd

If you decide on the Tri flow brand, use the clear synthetic. The other is for other types of equipment. I understand from the earlier post your restoring so Im taking this as the old lube has been removed. Thats a good choice you made. We should remember most synthetics are great for higher temps, not a critical thing here. What is important is the “clean” or non or very very few additives to oils and greases being used in precision machining components. Here is where the clear oils we all use along with the older “standard” white lithium grease thats been used for ages for new assembly of parts and or repair and adjustment of such. So in any case it will need to be monitored and likely other oils needed if there is shafts and bushings. Respectfully the grease can only sit, its not likely to soak down to a bushing, so that may need to be monitored. good day Floyd

We should ask, so I will. What is going to be your primary project, this should have a material and really if leather the thickness. I wont bother you with all the varibles but just say there is a range of thickness for machines. These can be helpfull to others answering for your best steps forward. In that your 31-15 machine the singer has its perfect place. The Juki in your photo was an extremely popular and high quality “ workhorse” period. The name is not a knock off it has been one of the few leaders in machine mfg. I truly am trying to not sound biased. The brand is copied for a wealth of reasons. This 562 typically has a smaller bobbin size of some now days. So this could be an excuse to consider, slightly. The key point is like all in this machine, upholstery class are optium with threads sized 69-138, thats just my opinion. But its not going to sew thicker thread or you could start thinking of all your tuning issue time with the other machine. (So far, as that can get ironed out in another post in short order ) The 562 photo you post does show the hand lever for reversing. Prices can always be better or worse. Its a great weekend to discuss here on the site, possibly with some links to discussion in the past. Good day Floyd

I agree! This is though how some videos mention. To my eyes all these 441 types I have noticed; the release lever that splits the tensioner contacts the thread. Sorry to anyone offended but reason my Cobra setup skips this recommendation. I think it may help in some way if thread is working its way out of the tensioner. So in this respect I can sure entertain a remedy to address the constant thread contact. Good day Floyd

I dont think any of these come with turn buckle types to fine tune that chain. Or my Cobra didnt anyway as some others I seen. I understand the frustration and glad your back to stitchin. Something I used in one of them quick moments was, some elastic. This was some 1/2” wide stuff from doing some repairs on a hunting blind. Anyway I took about 8” and put it through a couple links roughly 4” apart and carefully stitched the elastic together. Bam! Instant tensioner, just light enough to keep the chain straight. I rather like the idea of a staight adjustable rod there but havent had another issue as yet, so what the heck. Congrats on the new machine Floyd

It may help if a thead size can be mentioned. Curiously! Possibly using a micrometer if nothing labeled. In anycase the 14/90 needle list for use with V46 thread, and this has a typical measure of .0094” Although you may well know if, the needle does slide down the thread very easy. It should be a large enough needle. Good day Floyd

If your nearby one of the dealers or other authorized company’s this would be a great oppurtunity for you. The best actually in my oppinion. If your not sure where any sales options are just ask. And also there are other brands of the same basic casting. The questions are always welcome here on the forum. Later and have a good day Floyd

Trying to follow ya, So i best say this model 26 has a hook! versus the shuttle. Not a big deal they both grab the thread, shuttles are generally in a bit bigger model like the cobra class 4. I am guessing with your question you may think there is a thread buildup under the bobbin basket. This the reason to remove the small retainer, kinda the half circle part. It has some very small screws ( a magnetic driver is highly adviseable ). The needle cover plate can then be removed by screws in the end side, to enable, This above basket removal. So being carefull lift and remove the basket to inspect, clean and lube. You may have to turn the handwheel a bit so to get a better position for the basket removal. Im just sayin in a certain place its a breeze, so carefully and then Here is a general procedure similar https://youtu.be/zvEsOKqdPZ4 Good day Floyd