papaw

Are not being sold now?

I always like looking at the things you do Chief, they are beautifully done always great patterns and outstanding color.

In the old days we also carried coin purses some with snaps and the good old pinwheel for coins, I still make a few pinwheels so Grandpa can show the kids what he use to use.

Its like Yellow 4 coats to get nice color but does need to dry between coats for best coverage.

Here are the colors I have found for Fiebings Antique colors http://rowensworld.com/store/Fiebings_Antique_Finish_32oz_21981-.html. It sounds like your painting and then putting Antique on without putting the resist on first. Dye dry - Resist dry - Antique , wipe , dry , resist - Paint dry, Resist again if you wish with Acrylic paint you don't have to. Keep coats lite and you may need 2 or so lite coats most mix resist 50/50 . The products you have will work fine for you at this time . I am not real good at this but someother may have more info for you.

Not bad at all for a first project and not the easiest to do for a first. Welcome

Yes it's low angle doesn't have name on it just made USA it's old. I sharped it the first time and like you would and plane blade not so good changed it to about 11 deg. wow did that take soon time and now it works very well. I'll try to post picture later. I did enough last night and this morning with scrap I think I'll be able to skive wider areas where I was having so many issues. I am like a lot of others don't skive much but want to be able to when needed.

Just received a small Block Plane (2" wide) from e bay today sharped it up and tried it on some scrap leather tonight. It did a very good job compared to the super skiver tool I have been trying to use. I didn't get it sharp enough the first go around, second time was a charm. It did the edges as well now I won't be afraid to do extra skiving if I need to get it thinner. Hopefully no more torn leather on thin cuts.

I can't help but you might try a post in Motorcycle or Dying forum you should get a good answer there.

The deception is great, your carving and tooling of the coins and the coloring is great the beveling around the coin or stamping is very nice, Good Job!!

In Bruce Grants book he just calls it a slit braid on p. 50 but what works is what matters.

I have a set but use to cut deer up I would not be able to use cutting leather unless it was straps or something like that.

This is a issue with all of them, there's a thinner for most (which I don't use) I don't know if it helps or not. I put in jar that I work from and seal the can back and turn the can every couple of days, I also steer it each time I open the can and try to mix what's on the bottom of the can. I don't know anything you can do after it starts getting thick, others may have some tricks but I've not heard them.

You should measure from the middle hole to the leather loop. You should not include the buckle.

Just take a trip to Goodwill or yard sale buy .50 -- $2.00 cheap bag to try it on.

I always tell people that are on the fence so to speak call and talk to Barry about what you wish to carve. just my .02

That is the way you learn if you can do something is jump right in and hit it out of the park. Nice going.

Nice looking for the first one. Yup it would have looked better with a differ color, but you could do some painting and still make it jump, the red is a good start I like that good job. I do have one question did you punch your holes from the back/or what makes the holes in picture #1 look funny, at least to me.

Nice bag looks cool. I hate rabbit just finished chair arm covers for wife, made with rabbit now hair all over shop. Guess she'll have to clean it up for me. LOL it's only fair. But you did some nice work there!

The bottom stitching doesn't look to be sewn very well from what I see, so I kind of think it is not massed production.

I like the round knife for the ease of cutting thicker leather and long lines just works better for me as I can stay right up against my edge guild with a thicker heaver blade than a thin blade wobble off a little its happen to my times before with razor knife. Also love the sharpness that I can get it too skiving and use of the differ edges /or parts of the blade.

One other thing do you have the blade all the way in the leather or are you just cutting on the back edge of the blade? The other thing is are you cutting deep enough?

I think a lot depends on type of glue water base - solvent base reason for thinning to thick or to keep thin to last longer. Most all manufactures have a thinner for their glues, but after it starts to set up it is gone in my opinion, if you do thin it at that point it may not hold very well. I have never tried it but I've heard Toluene at Lowes will work with Dap.

Most of tandys is junk or scrap buy once and be done. It is maybe a good place to buy practice pieces but even that may not give you a good sense of what good leather will be to carve or stamp, I've learned the hard way don't wish to see others doing it that way. Just my .02

Thanks