Jordan

I certainly remember them but haven't a clue where or who would have a pattern. Sorry

Buy sheet rubber get yourself a clicker and some dies and make your own bottoms. Then you have complete control and artistic license to do what you want. That is what I will most likley do with my sandal idea. You would have to buy a boatload from offshore to make it worthwile plus as a selling point they will be handmade by you.

The way I do mine is I need the height width and thickness of the book. Then measure on a paper template from the centerline out to the edges in both directions adding 1/8th of an inch on both sides of the bend of the spline in both directions (allows the leather to bend around the book) then add 1/2 inch on the outer edge in both directions (allows for stitch line) then add 1/2 inch top and bottom (allows for stitch line) Mark your stitch line 1/4 inch in all the way around. Then cut 2 additional pieces for the inside (for the cover to slip in) about 1/2 to 3/4 of the distance from the outer edge to the centerline. So if my math is right you need a piece of leather for the cover that is 18 & 1/2 by 12 inches plus the 2 pieces for the inside this is assuming your measurements are 8 & 1/2 inches wide and 11 inches tall But You will need to figure the thickness to get the proper measurement. 1/2----------1/8--1/8------C/L-----1/8--1/8----------1/2 front cover Spine back cover Hope this is not to confusing.

Perhaps someone remembers the French name for the process and the web location wikpedia maybe? for the water/heat process to harden leather. I cannot remember where I read it and lost the bookmark when my computer had a major brain fart. If the leather is thin then a reinforcing piece can be sewn to the mouth of the holster.

So I take it your pistol is an auto not a revolver? If thats the case and you don't want western style you should be able to get a holster and a seperate gunbelt at pretty much any gun shop at a reasonable price that you could modify or spruce up to meet your needs. Unless I have totally misunderstood your inquiry, LOL Jordan

Anyone have photos and or drawings and dimensions for their press? I want/have to make my own if I want one. I would like a starting point and clues for the design and build. Besides it will give you guys a chance to show off your tools.

There are 2 types that I use one is a freehand stitch groover looks like a pencil. the other is a wood handled adjustable type that follows the edge of the leather as you pull it along. Also there is an edger that burnishes a line rather than cut the leather

Yup pretty much covers it. Empty Gun! or Dummy

I vote for #3

All depends on how much edge you want to take off, the larger one will round the edge over more, the smaller will make the edge flatter, also depends on how much you slick the edges as slicking compresses the leather. If it is for you water or spit works just as well as gum trag in my opinion, I also suspect leather weld is just white glue. I would say middle of the road for size and water for slicking as I usually struggle with cottonmouth.

Some more pics, haven't done any instruction writing yet, just trying to nail down the process first.

Randy, how is that press working for you? I have a few extra bucks and want to build my own about what yours looks like. Can you post a few photos or dimensions to give me a head start.

Ryan, I bought one of your Model 5 machines from another board member awhile back an I must say I am very pleased with it. Do you have a catalog of accessories for this machine? Still learning to use it and would like more info on attachments and such but am at a loss as to where to get stuff like a thinner foot or single sided, to get closer stitch lines on holsters etc. Thanks Jordan

Just an idea but maybe a local tandy store has one they use as a sales aid and would be willing to loan or rent it to you. Or buy a bianchi, I think the least amount for one is in the 4-500 range on the website(then you wouldn't have to give it back) Good luck and best wishes on the wedding, 26 years or so for me and still good.

Way cool.

Not a jeweler but from what I gather the black comes from a chemical reaction between the iron content in certain metal types and the chemicals used in tanning a hide, I don't think brass or stainless reacts. Pot metals like the stuff a bearing housing is made of or file shavings from sharpening tools does react within seconds. Most books recommend sharpening all tools well away from any wet leather contact.

better stock up, as they (scientific community) are saying all the cell phone use is decimating the bee population. I also heard they are going to release another report saying after years of study breathing is bad for you, eggs are good for you and coffee is the nectar of the gods, sheesh what will they spend our money on next?

so true, I can barely sharpen a pencil, and always seem to run out of 1st aid stuff at the most inopportune moments!

discount stores would have cheapo zorries $3.00 or less makes for a good pattern and will give you an example of the strap construction

A good source for decent clamps is office supply, those spring metal clips for holding papers together work well and come in a variety of sizes.

Considering the 6 to 8 hundred dollar price tag on seats out there I think next to nothing might not be a good idea. Maybe an auction or charity thing. I would think that lots of venues would be available as riding season is getting underway. Children or veterans organizations maybe? Ebay would not harm your rep but price as sited in the above post might as far as some dope thinking there must be something wrong with them. I love the second one very cool.

Thanks, I am sure the book thing will be a long process to do it right, I may post tutorial segments as I progress, at the very least I will put some photos up as I progress.

I'm using some saddle skirting from tandy scrap bin 10/11wt I think. the top is 7/8 wt. the first pair was 2 layers of 7/8 wt. a bit thin with the thicker stuff I can sink the thread deeper and increase the wear time. Eventually I want to do some type of rubber sole.

only a suggestion, wet the leather pull it and or stretch it to form the corners also make some short triangular cuts on the edges to be able to smooth out any puckers. Tack it as you go and you may need to remove and retack a few times kind of like a shoe maker does. wet leather will dicolor at the tack points so they must be where you won't see it in the finished product, also wet leather will pick up all kinds of marks and dents even fingernail marks so slow and careful are in order. Others with far more experience will most likely let you know if there is better ways to do it. also glue it and remove the tacks when it looks right.

About the only things I can say are grab some paper, pencil and unloaded gun and start messing around with patterns, in general put your lines 3/4" outside the outline of the gun that will give you a pretty good idea of the size of the body (adds enough to mold around the thickness of the gun), then add your belt loop ears for a paddle style, or bend around the gun for a loop sewn to the back and an ear to the rear. There are some pretty good posts here with more details, most books and videos deal with revolver western styles. And there are pattern packs available. As far as molding goes it is basically wet leather that is pressed around the gun by using everything from your hands to smooth ball end tools and bone folders. Again there are lots of discussions about that too. Also there is a book by bianchi that is real good as far as history and tips, in the for sale section if someone hasn't already snatched up the great deal as it is hard to find at a good price, wish I had the money. Others will chime in because it seems that once you make a few you have a hard time passing up a opportunity to talk about them enough rambling on my part enjoy the adventure.