Big Sioux Saddlery

I don't remember seeing that thread before ("Things I've Learned From Leather Working") Lots of goodies in there, and I've done them all! I have put a barrier up in my shop to prevent the public from going back into my work space. If someone wants to see that area, I'm happy to give them a tour, but I don't want people, (especially children whose parents are constantly oblivious to what their children are doing at any given time), wandering back there and picking up sharp objects.

Nice attention to detail, your beaded border looks very good. Personally, I think the seat ear looks perfect. If installing a Cheyenne roll, you take that into account when fitting your seat, but I like a real tight ear anyway. I also like your tap pattern. Very nice, it's amazing the quality of instruction we have today that allows a guy to build one like this on their 4th try. I see guys that have built some 600 saddles and they seem to get worse with every one instead of better!

I have a BK swivel knife. I hated it when I got it, and thought the same as Jeff's original statement. . . way overpriced. I had been using a Gore swivel knife, and was used to that. I have used the BK knife a good bit in the last couple years, thinking I need to give it another chance, and I actually do like the knife better, or I should say the blade better than I did at first. The knife itself, well, I much prefer my Gore knife. Regarding Barry's stamping tools, they are the best I've tried. There was an immediate improvement in my tooling when I started using his bevelers. Most of my stamping tools to that point were Crafttool mid '80's and later, and as everyone knows, they didn't get better as time went on. Barry's tools do seem high when comparing to Crafttools, but I honestly can't do even a passable job of tooling with the Craftools, so I just save my pennies and every once in awhile, put in an order to Barry. I'm not saying a really good tooler can't get good results from cheaper stamps, because obviously, Jeff has done just that. But I think the better stamps make it easier for an average tooler to get good results, and I'll be the first to admit, my tooling is just average at best.

I am curious what makes that person think they are entitled to a discount. Typically, I will explain that on most items, the margin is so slim already, that there is no room whatsoever for any kind of discount. I might show a little appreciation for a GOOD customer by giving them a deal on something, but if a first time or occasional customer that makes small purchases would ask this, then we have started out on the wrong foot already. Stick to your guns, or be prepared to get run over.

I've done just enough braiding that I know I'd never be able to make a living at it, or even make any money at it. I have a ton of respect for the people that can do collector level work, AND get paid for it. I haven't done much braiding in the last 20 years; kids and making a living took priority. However I do have two green hides in the freezer, and another two that I processed and cut up a couple years ago. I just can't turn down the chance to get a hide off a skinny old cow when I have the chance! Finding the right time to process seems a struggle, either too hot or too cold, very little in between since I've gotten the two that are in my freezer. It seems like 60-70 degree weather works the best, and dry air, of which we've had none.

I'll have to check on that. I'm going to say it's probably just Oil Treatment. That is SWEEEET!!!

A long time ago, a guy that works on these vintage heavy stitchers told me to use 30w oil and mix a little STP in with it, and oil anything that moves. I agree that these old machines need a heavier oil, and that mixture has served me well. it quiets them right down, and they run smooth.

I beg to differ, based on what I see come through. People that don't know horses consistently underestimate the weight and strength of leather needed in tack and equipment, and underestimate the strength of a horse as well. I have to agree with the liability warning, and unless the OP, and anyone else considering repair/fabrication of horse equipment, is able to work closely with someone who DOES have extensive horse experience, I would advise sticking to projects that don't carry the liability issues.

I sure hope you got her a new toothbrush! Lol That is my rule of thumb with ALL vintage machinery. If metal rubs against metal, it better be running in oil.

I agree with Chrisash. I have never used any type of vegetable oil, although I know some top makers do. I haven't been impressed seeing the saddles that come in the shop, belonging to people who say they use olive oil, or peanut oil, or anything BUT neatsfoot oil.

Ditto, except I'm not Mennonite, but my mother was, if that counts for anything.

It does provide a warm fuzzy feeling, doesn't it? I can't answer for the OP, but it is possible to spend way too much time changing machinery over to do a different job, even in a small shop. For example, I have frequent projects that require several needle/thread size/thread color throughout the project. I hate spending 5-15 minutes changing a machine, and then have to change it back again, and TRY to get it set back where it was. So yes, there are very good reasons for having multiples of even the same type of machine. Time is money.

Tan Kote, while not as heavy a finish as Resolene, will hinder the absorption of oil, at least until it is worn off. Is it possible to lightly oil the piece from the flesh side? Any oil you apply will change the color. To what degree depends on the leather itself, how much oil you apply, and possibly the type of oil. I only use pure NF and a blend of NF called Harness oil, which has something added to repel rodents from chewing on whatever you oil with it.

Unsplit leather will have vein marks showing on the flesh side, and a less "split" look. . . not quite a perfect on the flesh side. Most everything I've seen under 10/11 oz has been split. And you're right, Wickett does a nice job splitting.

Yep, kind of like the cattle/beef market.

I agree. Not only do those new machines have no life, there is no way to make them lay down a stitch like the machines that were designed to be saddle and harness stitchers.

. . . You do know that it doesn't ever really stop, don't you?! A friend of mine says a chosen few of us have an obligation to rescue this vintage equipment. Lol.

Judging from the style of the saddle, I'd say '50's model. I might have some old pins that I replace with Blevins, if used would suffice. As far as I know, it would be sheer luck to find any of these new, although I'm sure someone has a NOS set lying around in a box somewhere. As for the rosettes, Ralph Shimon saddles used to have them, but I do not see that kind on the saddles of the people who bought his company. I do have half round punches with points instead of scallops, and rosettes can possibly made using those. I am laid up for a couple days from a shop accident involving sharp objects and too much clutter on the floor. When I'm healed enough to be able to grip a punch, I'll see what I can do.

Are you moving back to Iowa? Or back there already?

I have one I just listed on a FB group. No mark, newer knife, doesn't hold an edge super well but I can get it sharp enough to skive with reasonably well. Good one to practice your sharpening techniques on. I kept it around as a bench knife for cutting straps to length, rough skiving, or skiving repair work. . . Anywhere I didn't want to use my good knives. Asking $40 plus shipping. I'll see if I can get a picture to load. It says the file is too big, and honestly idk to edit it on my phone. If you want to PM me your cell number I can text pics to you. I guess I should find out where you are. . . I'd rather not ship internationally. I have a few edgers I'm looking to sell also.

YinTx, that would be fantastic if you could send me some samples! Mighty neighborly of you! I don't see a location listed for you but I'm assuming you are in the states. . .Tx perhaps. Lol. Do you acquire your Sedgwick's from overseas or is there a distributor in the states. There may be an opportunity for me to start creating more English work. The bridle leather from our domestic tanneries are just fair, and I know the high end English work made from real English bridle leather is far superior to anything tanned and made in the US. I will PM you may address if you are willing to do that. It is very much appreciated!!

My experience has been primarily with the saddlery and harness leathers from the two vegetable tanneries left in this country, plus a few that have closed since I started, vs the cheaper leather from South America, Mexico and finished equine products made from leather tanned in Asia. I don't use a lot of chrome tanned leather, and rarely know where it's coming from when I do buy it. If it stinks, I'm probably going to send it back to the supplier. Both Hermann Oak and Wickett's leather has a pleasant smell, although not overly strong. I honestly have to put my nose right up to a fresh side to smell it. However, I guarantee that if there was a new side of saddle skirting from Brazil in the shop (it's been 30 years since there has, and it's not ever going to happen again), I would be able to smell it the second I walk in the door. This is even more true of the harness and strap goods made in Asia. That stuff stinks, and I can smell it from across the shop. I hate to even have any of it sitting waiting for repairs to be done, because it makes the whole shop stink. The leather from Brazil and the leather from Asia that I'm referring to do not smell the same, or even similar. Some of the leather from Brazil smells a bit like 2,4-D weed spray. The Asian-tanned leather that I'm talking about smells like. . . a cross between horse urine and something I can't even describe. Leather tanned in Mexico has gotten less offensive, and I have used some Chahin leather, although I avoid it for the most part. It has a less pleasant, less "leathery" smell than either Hermann or Wickett. I have not used Barenia leather, that I know of. Nor have I used Sedgwicks, since I do very little English work. Edit to add: I forgot about the tanneries that have closed. Muir McDonald skirting had the most peculiar smell, almost like cinnamon, quite pleasant. I only got 2 or 3 sides from them when I was first starting out, but wish now I had gotten more. I like the way it aged. Moser skirting had a less pleasant smell, not offensive necessarily, just not a smell that made you want to keep sniffing it. I used some Westan skirting before they closed, and don't remember anything in particular about the odor, but did like the way it worked.

I don't know the answer to your question, but in my 30+ years of buying leather, I have found the stronger the smell, the cheaper the leather. A roll of saddle skirting fresh from one of our US tanneries doesn't have very much of a smell, although others coming in the shop can smell it better than I can. I do think sometimes when people come in and take that big deep breath and comment on how good it smells, that they are actually sniffing dye and glue fumes, rather than the smell of leather. The "new car smell" could be dye and glue.

I have a rule: I don't work on dirty horse blankets. The customer must either wash them before they come, or they will pay me to do it, and I let them know that up front. I make this comparison: ' Bend over and pick up a handful of dirt, grit, and sand and dump it into the engine oil of your vehicle. That is what sewing this stuff dirty does to my sewing machines, which cost thousands of dollars.' They usually "get it" then.

I need to find some myself. I am down to the last bit of a large roll of 2" heavy duty Velcro that I think I got from Shelton Reynolds years ago. I'm not even sure they are still in business. A word to the wise on sewing horse boots: they are one of the worst things you can do to your machine. They are usually full of arena sand and grit, which sifts down into your machine as you sew. Most of the time I turn that work away, unless they are really clean, and even then, I charge more for that type of work. Saddle pads are about as bad, and horse blankets if they are laundered before they come in. Good luck to you.