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oldtimer

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Everything posted by oldtimer

  1. oldtimer
    Waiting for a servo motor and a speed reducer
  2. oldtimer
    I bought a Wilhelm Pedersen splitter a month ago, fully refurbished and it splits leather like a hot knife in butter
  3. oldtimer
    The knee lift is not supposed to be connected to the wire ! Om the back side of the machine there is a rod with a spring that is to be connected to the knee lift lever.. The wite is used when you operate the presser foot lift with a pedal. The one who set this up does not know what he is doing! My humble opinion
  4. oldtimer
    The Hightex Cowboy splitter seems to be a clone of the Fenda splitter. I bought one yesterday ! :D
  5. oldtimer
    Maybe this will help
  6. oldtimer
    I have a JACK 550 watt servo from College sewing on my 335, works great
  7. oldtimer
    If the thread is bunching up under the material it is the top thread tension that must be tightened
  8. oldtimer
    The saddle is made in Uttar Pradesh, India. It is junk and should never be on a horse. I bought 4 of those cheap saddles ( used) just to see what was inside. My advise is to throw it in a garbage container. Some photos: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Old-Timers-sadelsida-213225115376738/photos/?tab=album&album_id=722074604491784
  9. oldtimer
    Is it the part in the pic at far right that is worn and makes stitches shorten by wear?
  10. oldtimer
    Is this the part that regulates the stitch length ?
  11. oldtimer
    Do you have a pic of the part named bell crank?
  12. oldtimer
    A couple of years ago I found an article on the web how to refurbish a 29 K machine, to repair a worn part that determines the stitch lenght I can´t find the article again . Anyone ? / OldTimer
  13. oldtimer
    A Cobra class 26 is the clone of a JUKI 341, a better choice than a 335, IMHO
  14. oldtimer
    Does anyone have the email adress to Ron´s tools ?
  15. oldtimer
    Yangtools on Instagram
  16. oldtimer
    I bought a no name JUKI 441 clone from a Chinese company, built a machine from chinese parts, i e motor , speed reducer and all. IIt was perfectly functioning from day one, no extra set ups needed, I have used it in my saddlery for more than a year, and I get a smile on my face every time I use it!
  17. oldtimer
    Make a bottom cover, and a top cover, Glue and sew the pieces together. Then make the neck cover with a piece that reaches the center of the horn, glue the top, drill a small hole for the screw and insert the screw, then cover the neck with the wings of the neck cover.
  18. oldtimer
    Use your straight edge as it is, scratch a line with an awl and then cut along the scratched line with a round knife. The proper way to do it!
  19. oldtimer
    This is my edge machine. I turned a piece of Lignum Vitae to fit the motor shaft. The wood is so hard thet I even could thread the hole for a screw into the axle. / Knut
  20. oldtimer
    Paul. get in touch with "Trox" on this forum, he is Nowegian ( Oslo) and is expert on sewing machines. He will straighten out your needs! /Knut
  21. oldtimer
    It is definately the cast iron version , so it is a better machine than the new ones
  22. oldtimer
    hej, och välkommen till forumet! Jag bor på Frösön, Jämtland!
  23. oldtimer
    110 = 1,1mm 120 = 1,2 mm and so on. (110 mm more than 4")
  24. oldtimer
    Adler 205-374 with an EFKA Variostop motor, JUKI LU-563 (EFKA Variostop motor) and an Adler 30-1
  25. oldtimer
    Right, Oakley! 332 needle system is for the Adler 30-1
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